Thread: Looking at a "mighty three"

I posted this over on SC but it is so quiet there now so i was hoping some of you could help me.

I am looking at a 1967 96 2-stroke triple throat.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=51805e7972

Only rust is on bottom of the door and on the pinch weld.
car is not a monte carlo but has the three carburetor intake (which they did make one for the 67 model year).
it has been sitting two years. the engine is not frozen but it doesn't sound like it starts right away. he said there where no problems with the engine or transmission when he parked it.

The car is $3,500 and is in Houston so i would need to ship it to NY.

Questions -
can you still buy jets for these carburetors? (solex 40bl right?)
exactly how reliable are these cars? is it okay to assume that it would be good for 4 miles daily drive to work and occasionally a 80 mile jaunt?
do these absolutely require premium fuel or is mid-grade okay? lead additive?

The rear brakes are frozen. the parking brake was applied when parked and now he thinks the cable is frozen. how hard of a job is this?

Original thread on SC:
1966 96 evaluation please - SaabCentral Forums

This would be my daily driver by the way. i am also aware these are not the best "flatland" cruisers and any prolonged highway speed requires half-choking of the engine every 2-3 minutes.

Thanks in advance!!!

I thought you meant you were buying a 3 series BMW!

Hmmm... Most carbs used in the V4's don't have removable jets, so if I were going by the trend, I would say no. I'm unfamiliar with the Solex 40bl though. Best bet would to call Chip Lamb at West of Sweden Saab. He does quite a bit of two stroke stuff. West of Sweden SAAB - Vintage SAAB Parts - Richmond, VA - 804-357-4926 I'm not sure if Jack Lawrence does two stroke or just V4, but he is located in Jamestown NY (Tel: (716) 665-4200)).

As far as I know, reliability is a non-issue if it's been taken care of. Again, if you call Chip Lamb, he'll know more.

The rear brake cable isn't a horrible job, but it depends on the rust. I gave up on mine over the summer because I couldn't get a pin out. Basically it's just a cable that runs on the inside of the car in a corrugation on the floor, under the carpet. Goes to the back of the car, out a whole in the floor and is pinned to a lever on the drums. The pins on mine are rusted and I can't get it out. If it's just the cable (typically is as the spring tends to rust and lose it's "springy-ness"), it's just a matter of lifting up the carpet, undoing a bolt at the base of the hand brake, fishing out the cable, undoing a pin, and putting it back together. I could get it out if I really tried, but gave up to work on more pressing matters. Also, some times the brakes can be unstuck if you get under the car and pull on the lever with your hands. I'm currently the guy that has to do that after every time I use the handbrake (cause by the spring mentioned before). See the spring in the picture below? It's all part of the handbrake cable. And the pin goes through the U-shaped bracket at the end. Also, according to skandix that part only fit's V4 96's, but according to other sites, it should fit strokers.


And yes, these are not good highway cars. The normal strokers (non-triple carb) had a top speed somewhere between 60 and 70. Stay there too long and you risk seizing the engine.

Thanks for the reply sha. That does not sound like too bad of a job.

I will call those two places tomorrow.

I thought these cars topped out around 80?

Hmmm... most strokers don't like going over 60 from what I heard, but those weren't triple carbs.

Well....
I just called Chip Lamb....he was very rough around the edges. granted it was after hours but he just seemed very rude almost.
anyway, he said as long as the car is in good condition it should be fine. i could not ask too many questions because he did not seem interested. he confirmed the carburetor was a solex but informed me there was no such thing as a 40bl so i have no idea where i got that from.

I also contacted Gary Stottler down the road from me and he was hesitant to recommend it for the reason i want it but it seems that was mostly from a rust standpoint.

He also said to upgrade the cooling. is this necessary?

I have only heard good things about Chip Lamb. But when I called him (I've only called him once), I got the same feeling. I was looking for a specific part, and couldn't find it anywhere (the cap and needle bearings that go on the end of the axle in the CV joint). He seemed like he just want me to go away; the phone call was less than 1 minute. For that reason, I always look elsewhere first. Maybe I caught him on a bad day. If I did, it's his fault. Not mine. On the other hand, every time I have called Ashcraft (both Jack and his son Mark, the new owner), they have been the nicest, most helpful, and kind people. For that reason, they are my go to. But they are mostly V4, not two stroke. Besides the engines, many parts are interchangeable though.

As far as cooling goes, I thought it was only a V4 problem. Here in upstate New York, I bet you'll be fine as long as the system is clean and operating properly. I've only over heated twice. Once was from a coolant hose that popped loose, and the second was a scorching day and I was stuck in stopped traffic.

You could easily upgrade by going to a radiator shop and getting the radiator re-cored at a good radiator shop. They can add a lot more fins and tubes to the radiator. But of course, it will cost a pretty penny I bet and might even need to be sent somewhere.

Oh also what items are included on the 1000 miles maintenance?

Basically, lubricate every linkage in the car, check/add fluids as necessary, adjust brakes and clutch, check timing etc.

Oooops, missed that post somehow. I haven't even added 1000 miles yet. I spend too much time under the car, rather than in the car.

Ok here is where i stand -
i still love this car but i am uneasy. several people have steered me away from this car. but i am getting mixed signals.
one person said no just because of the rust issues that are possible in NY and the other said no because of the engine and parts availability (she is a V4 owner in Finland).

I have been looking at V4s also - there are two i really like which raises new problems.
the one car is mint....but he is reluctant to ship it and deal with money through a bank. understandable but disappointing.

the other is....rough to say the least.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...3&l=51805e7972

last picture is of the V4. interior is just horrible and the rust really scares me. not to mention that it whines in 2nd gear (not sure how bad).

I really don't know what to do....

Hmmm, it looks pretty rusty, but it doesn't look like much more than bad surface rust. It is just one picture, but from it you don't see anywhere where it has rusted through.

Personally, if you are unfamiliar with the car, the V4 is a much better starter place for a daily driver. Parts are far more common (the engine had several applications outside of Saab) and are pretty easy to keep running. Not to mention, a decent V4 is typically cheaper than a similar condition stroker.

Also, it will be a bit of trouble keeping the thing from rusting. They rust so bad because of their monocoque design that traps water, and rust proofing back then isn't what it is today.

just added two more pictures of the rust if you wouldnt mind looking.

Only seeing the same one. The blue one, right?

okay now they are there. sorry about that.

I see one rust hole (almost under the clutch pedal, but towards the wheel well), and it looks a bit weak where they fuel line passes through the firewall, and where the far rocker panel joins the floor looks a bit weak. It is definitely drive-able like that. If you didn't want to fix the problem, it's drive-able in normal conditions (excluding salt/snow) for a years (maybe 5?) before you start getting into big trouble. I would strongly advise against that. Even with the current rust, you'll have a bit of work to get rid of it; mostly metal work to get the pans to fit.

Honestly, I don't think it's too bad. I would trade my rust troubles for that any day.

Thanks for the advice. i want to see what happens with the other V4 first. that is just a few mechanical things (leaky brake cylinders and such).

Rebuild kits of cylinders can be found. Thesaabsite used to have some (they are now out), Ashcraft has some ($49). I'm sure there are other places too.

One thing to consider. When I expressed a desire to return to basics with an early 9 my mech I was crazy and hate it. Way too slow.

You have to consider where you will be driving it since there is nothing in your profile. Here in New Jersey I even had trouble with a 64 Peugeot 404 with a 4 on the tree.

Now euromobile900 can vouch for me that Rt.23 from Port Jervis over the top of High Point is pretty steep. At least once a week I would start that drive from Sussex or Port Jervis and no matter how hard I shifted and kept up the revs, one little mistake and I had to back down a mile or two and start over again.

Each run was like the "Myth of Sisyphus" trying to roll my Peugeot to the top on the mountain (a climb from 300' to 1,000 feet elevation.) Shifting like the devil possessed me each moment and loved every minute of it. But I would have pledged my soul for just 10 more horsepower.

I can deal with slow. i don't have to tackle hills in my area.

Problem now. i need opinions based on what has been seen so far.
i know everybody is against the stroker so it is down to the v4...but which one...

there is the blue one with the rust issue and needs carburetor work - $2300

1970 SAAB 96 | Cars and Vehicles | Sylmar CA | recycler.com - this one is missing random pieces from the rear end - $3500

SAAB model 96 1967 V-4 - this one needs work with the brakes. - $2200

the only one in solid mechanical condition in the middle one.... soooo.....