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  1. #1
    Nathan! Not Nate.
    Captain Off Topic Nathan 9⁵'s Avatar
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    15 Oct 2010
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    El Paso, TX
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    Saab(s)
    '03 9⁵ Arc 3.0t, '01 9⁵ Griffin V6, '04 9 Arc 2.0T

    Saab 9-5 3.0t V6 Alternator Replacement

    Hey gang! So here's the picture edition step by step to replacing your 3.0t's alternator! Relax, it's easy, and doesn't take more than 2 hours to do. With this method, you will not need to remove the right axle or undo the ball joint. The alternator easily lifts up from the engine bay.

    So here's the things you'll need:

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    I used an SUV/Truck jack, some jack stands, a 1/2" socket wrench with a variety of sockets, you'll definitely need a 16mm wrench, which I find isn't included in many wrench sets.

    First thing to do is firmly set the parking brake and make sure your transmission is in Park.

    Open the hood and remove the battery cover, if you still have it. Disconnect both + & - battery cables.

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    Before you lift the vehicle up, loosen the 5 lug nuts with either the lug nut tool in the trunk, or a 17mm socket. Only loosen a half turn since the wheel's still on the floor.

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    Now jack up the vehicle with a suitable jack and immediately secure the car with a suitable jack stand. Remove the wheel, and get it out of your way. I prefer it under the car, just in case...

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    with an 8mm driver, remove the screws that hold the plastic splash guard to the car and remove it.

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    Now with your jack place a piece of 2x4 between it and the oil pan. Mine is about 8" long. Lift the engine nice and slow just enough to relieve the right hand motor mount.

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    With your extension and universal joint, remove the 3 13mm bolts holding the motor mount to the frame. Then the 3 16mm bolts holding the motor mount to the engine carrier.

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    Once the motor mount is out of your way, remove the 4 16mm bolts holding the carrier to the engine.

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    Last edited by Wulf; 27 February 2012 at 17:13. Reason: attached images to thread

  2. #2
    Nathan! Not Nate.
    Captain Off Topic Nathan 9⁵'s Avatar
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    15 Oct 2010
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    El Paso, TX
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    Saab(s)
    '03 9⁵ Arc 3.0t, '01 9⁵ Griffin V6, '04 9 Arc 2.0T
    Now you've got to remove the drive belt... I personally don't like the idea of tightening the centre bolt on the idler pulley to slacken the belt. I've snapped so many bolts in my day and this is one bolt you don't want to snap. True, I've successfully slackened the tensioner by "tightening" the nut, without incident, but here's the alternative risk free method I've also used:

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    I use the handle from my floor jack, inserted into the space between the subframe and cv joint. You need to position yourself to pry against the tensioner pulley and at the same time slip the belt off of the water pump pulley. It takes very little effort.

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    Slip the belt off.

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    Remove the two 16mm bolts holding the tensioner to the block.

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    Get the little bugger out of the way, but not before you check it out for excessive play and a dry bearing.

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    Ah, the parts you've removed and set aside... Now's a good time to break.

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    Take a restroom break, get an iced tea refill and find your supervisor inspecting your work...

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  3. #3
    Nathan! Not Nate.
    Captain Off Topic Nathan 9⁵'s Avatar
    Join Date
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    El Paso, TX
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    Saab(s)
    '03 9⁵ Arc 3.0t, '01 9⁵ Griffin V6, '04 9 Arc 2.0T
    Back to work! Work, work, work!

    You're going to need to remove the air cooling duct. Lift straight up on the plastic duct where it connects to the alternator. The duct can be very stiff and tight fitting. If you squeeze it and use a twisting/lifting motion it should come straight off.

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    You're now going to be getting under the car. You're going to need a work light, the 16mm wrench, a 16mm socket wrench, a small socket wrench with an 8mm bit, and a 13 mm wrench.

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    Before you slip under, loosen the 2 16mm bolts on the front of the alternator.

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    Slide under with your tools in hand, and remove the the 8mm and 13mm bolts securing the wires to the back of the alternator. And using your 16mm wrench on the back of the alternator, and on the front use your socket wrench to remove the two bolts securing the alt. to the engine block.

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    Now, get out from under the engine, lower the engine slowly, and all the way down very carefully. Remove the cover from the wiring harness, you'll need the room, I think.

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    Okay, here's the difficult part. Grab your little sister, or any willing person nearby to lend a hand. ...Unless you're handy using both hands and your feet like a monkey. With your pry bar, insert it into the space between the CV joint and the subframe.

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    Gently pry shifting the engine forward, and hold. This allows the inch or two clearance to more easily lift the alternator up.

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  4. #4
    Nathan! Not Nate.
    Captain Off Topic Nathan 9⁵'s Avatar
    Join Date
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    Saab(s)
    '03 9⁵ Arc 3.0t, '01 9⁵ Griffin V6, '04 9 Arc 2.0T
    Raise the alternator above the exhaust manifold, it's tricky, but the easiest way I found is having the bolt eyelets facing the engine, and the rounded hump of the alternator facing the fire wall. Eventually twist the alternator, so the pulley end faces up, still prying the engine forward, continue to lift the alternator up out of the engine bay.

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    And ta-da! The alternator is out!

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    Note: On 1999-2001's I noticed it was a bit more difficult to remove the alternator since the AC freon lines are more in the way. I was able to still lift the alternator up by pressing the freon lines back towards the fire wall, then wiggling up the alternator between the rubber section of the line.

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    Of course installation is the reverse, except, when you raise the engine, you won't have to shift the engine back. The action of raising it shifts the engine back into the correct position.

    Hope this helps all the V6 owners who need help with an alternator replacement. Take care gang!

  5. #5
    New Member Robert Franks's Avatar
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    11 Aug 2012
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    Awesome article! This helped me tremendously to get my alternator out of my 1999 Saab 9-5. Everything was fairly easy until I got to the alternator itself. Getting under the car and removing the battery cable and the other little wire was hard, but getting the two bolts that connect it to the motor was a nightmare. There is NO room and you can't see anything at all. I don't know how in the world I'm going to get the new one back on now! Guess I'll cross that hurdle when I get my new alternator in a few days. And getting the alternator out past those AC lines.....

    Great article though! Sure helped me a lot! Thanks!

  6. #6
    New Member Joe Giardino's Avatar
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    05 Dec 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Franks View Post
    Awesome article! This helped me tremendously to get my alternator out of my 1999 Saab 9-5. Everything was fairly easy until I got to the alternator itself. Getting under the car and removing the battery cable and the other little wire was hard, but getting the two bolts that connect it to the motor was a nightmare. There is NO room and you can't see anything at all. I don't know how in the world I'm going to get the new one back on now! Guess I'll cross that hurdle when I get my new alternator in a few days. And getting the alternator out past those AC lines.....

    Great article though! Sure helped me a lot! Thanks!

    I CANNOT get the lower bolt that holds the alternator in out no matter what I try. Any tips or tricks to get this out ? It won't even loosen...

 

 

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