This is probably a basic routine procedure for many but can still be intimidating if you have never done it before. This posts covers the 2.3T / 2.3t engine.

Tools needed:

• wrench/spanner or ratchet/socket 13mm or 1/2"
• oil filter wrench/cap/pliers
• funnel (optional)
• latex gloves (optional)
• car ramps
• container for draining the oil

Parts and supplies needed:

• oil - 4 quarts/liters
• oil filter
• copper washer - 16mm

A new drain bolt is optional if the head on the bolt on your engine is worn. Size is M14x1.5 . See this thread for oil specifications: link

Difficulty rating (1-5): 1 - Easy

Time estimate: 1/2 hour

Note:
My car has a drain bolt size of 13mm. I ordered a replacement bolt which is 1/2". I have seen other US owners mentioning 1/2" for he Saab 9-5. These 2 sizes are very close and you shouldn't have a problem using a 13mm or 1/2 wrench for either bolt, unless it is really tight.

Instructions:

Make sure the engine is warmed up before you start. Wait 10 minutes or longer after the engine is turned off so most of the oil drained back to the oil sump. Warm oil drains easier.

Use car ramps to lift the front of the car.



The oil filter and oil drain bolt are located to the left of the exhaust when looking from the front of the car. The drain bolt is at the back of the oil sump so it can not be easily seen.



Drain the oil. Turn the wrench/spanner to loosen the bolt in the direction as indicated. This may seem the wrong way but remember you're looking at the back of the bolt.



Remove the oil filter. Make sure the old rubber gasket comes off with the old filter.



Let all oil drain out. The longer you wait, the more will drain.

Fit the new copper washer and tighten the drain bolt. Tightening torque is 25 Nm / 19 lb ft.

Make sure to not tighten it too much. It's possible to strip out the threads in the aluminum oil pan, and another possibility is leaving the plug so hard to remove that the bolt will get rounded if not removed by a 6-point socket.

Put some fresh oil on the rubber filter gasket before you put it on the engine. Be careful how much you tighten your oil filter. Tighten by hand first and then a quarter turn or as suggested by the filter manufacturer.



Put 4 quarts of oil into the engine. Hold the bottle this way so no vacuum gets into the bottle when you pour the oil.



Start the engine and check for leaks from the filter and drain bolt. Let the engine run for a few minutes so oil can soak the oil filter.

Stop the engine, let it sit for 10 minutes and check the oil level. Add more oil if needed. I have done many oil changes and found 4 quarts is just the right amount.

Very nice write up and photos. At my last oil change, I wanted to try a new oil that I had read about, so I decided to try Pennzoil's, Ultra Full Synthetic, "Euro L" 5W-30 (with "Hyper Cleansing Technology"). The oil meets Saab's specifications, is Ferrari approved and is very difficult to find. I ordered mine here: http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/pensyn.html. Since my car has a lot of miles on it, (129K) and I knew I had plenty of varnish build up on the inside, initially, I was going to use AutoRX to try to clean things up a bit. When I found out about this new Pennzoil product, I thought I would give it a try instead. The other two things I did were to use a slightly larger Wix oil filter, #51516 and also used a magnetic drain plug, (#9132929K eEuroparts), with a new copper washer. When I pulled off the magnetic drain plug at the end of the previous 5000 miles, It had a buildup of some type of sludge/slurry on it, so I was glad that I used it. Incase you're wondering, O'Reilly's Auto Parts will take your waste oil. I'll pull the cylinder head cover after 10K miles using this new product and do a photo comparison, we'll see if the product lives up to the hype.

Tried out your oil and filter change instructions. Overall, very informative for a novice like me. I have a suggestion for anyone who follows these instructions:

1. Be careful how much you tighten your oil filter. It should be only hand tightened and then a quarter turn or as suggested by the filter manufacturer.

I have had the unfortunate experience of over tightening, and damaging the filter. I did not know the limitations of the filter.

Originally Posted by kroma

Tried out your oil and filter change instructions. Overall, very informative for a novice like me. I have a suggestion for anyone who follows these instructions:

1. Be careful how much you tighten your oil filter. It should be only hand tightened and then a quarter turn or as suggested by the filter manufacturer.

I have had the unfortunate experience of over tightening, and damaging the filter. I did not know the limitations of the filter.

Excellent tip and added to the instructions.

These kind of details are sometimes overlooked when you have done a procedure many times but should not be left out of tutorials like this.

One other thing to add is to make sure the old rubber gasket comes off with the old filter. If not you will have a big mess to clean up.

Originally Posted by Frank Wulfers

Excellent tip and added to the instructions.

These kind of details are sometimes overlooked when you have done a procedure many times but should not be left out of tutorials like this.

The one detail of this sort that I might suggest is to not over-tighten the drain plug, which can result in a couple of negative results more damaging than the loss of a $8 oil filter. It's possible to strip out the threads in the aluminum oil pan, and another possibility is leaving the plug so hard to remove that the bolt will get rounded if not removed by a 6-point socket. One of these results means that you can not tighten a new plug without some thread treatment, and the other means that extra efforts to get the drain plug out.

Certainly a minor detail, but the results can be negative -- I try to tighten just to the point of compressing the copper washer, and do a visual check for leaks afterwards. (on both the filter and drain)

Nice photos!

Thanks, I added your suggestion. I also added the recommended tightening torque for the drain bolt.

I always put in 4.5QTS for the 2.3L motors - they seem to use a little more then the 2.0L cars. A little more is always better then almost enough

Is it necessary to use an 'engine flush' product (STP/Wynns) prior to changing engine oil? I note on the service history receipts of the 9-5 that the Dealer used Wynns engine flush at every oil change carried out at around 5K miles intervals.

Originally Posted by T4hir

Is it necessary to use an 'engine flush' product (STP/Wynns) prior to changing engine oil? I note on the service history receipts of the 9-5 that the Dealer used Wynns engine flush at every oil change carried out at around 5K miles intervals.

Sounds like snake oil to me. If this were recommended it would be on the owner's manual. Seems like a quick way for the dealer to make a few quick bucks, or quids, in your case

Just an oil change with a quality synthetic oil,, and new filter is good enough; just do it at the recommended intervals and don't delay them!

Thanks for the tutorial.. I have a 2004 95 Aero SportWagon, ex Japan with 124,000km. Needed to do the oil and filter and your pics and instructions made it easy. Car is great - only complication is that all the service records are in Japanese and I'm not a speaker (or reader) of Japanese... Thanks again