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  1. #1
    jamengual is offline New Member
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    Unhappy 89 Turbo running poorly

    Hi Guys.

    I have a 89 turbo that needs some love and I was preparing to start doing some work on it and I decided to started so that I can move out the garage so that I can clean up the space to start working on the top replacement and the interior but the car starts but is to weak to actually run.

    I swapped from the parts car :

    ICM
    AIC
    AAM
    Battery
    Coil
    spark plugs
    and I got another 3 ECU two that were working and the original of the car.

    After changing those components the car still runs pretty rough and it doesn't accelerate at all like if there wasn't enough gas or pressure.

    Then I tried to fill up the tank to see if it was the pre pump but nothing ( I have like 40 L of gas on it now).

    The car starts after some cranking and then keeps running rough but when I try to accelerate the car you can feel that is trying but it does'n accelerate and it keep running after..

    I installed back the instrument panel following some advice from some people in saabcentral but still no go.

    There is some instances where you can feel that the car will come back to full power but it only last few second and then returns to bad(I haven't seen that for a while now).

    Following bentley's I tested :

    Voltage on the pump : reading 12.03v
    Voltage in the relay while cranking on 85 and 86 = 10.5-11.2v
    Jumper on fuse 30 = pump runs.
    Jumper on relay conector 30-87b = pump runs
    My pump is a roller type so I tested the feed pump and it works.
    Tested fuel delivery running the pump for 30 sec = 930 ml on container.


    So it looks like the pump gets the correct voltage, de ECU detects spark and grounds the fuel pump relay and all that is happening but still running terrible.

    Then I god a banjo bolt adapter for the fuel rail to test the fuel pressure to eliminate the pump and I got 40PSI on idle that is within normal values.

    Today I got the third ECU from a running car and nothing and I changed the distributor cap and nothing.

    I uploaded a video to youtube please watch it completely so you can see how the car is running : Saab 1989 Turbo convertible running problems - YouTube



    I need help, this is killing me.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    euromobile900's Avatar
    euromobile900 is offline Tutorial Bot Sam Carlson
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    Sounds really strange, like nothing I've ever heard before. But since you've done a lot of work with fuel, how about trying some spark things?

    Are you using the right spark plugs? NGK BCP 7ES are what you want for a turbo. Anything else is probably not going to do you any favors, as proven by many many posters on Saabnet and elsewhere. I don't know why our cars are so picky, but that's what they like.

    Then, if those are correct (check the gap and how worn the electrodes are, too!), look for cracks and problems with your sparkplug wires. You should replace them with Bougicords. They are much better than almost anything else.

    Finally, check your timing. Could be that it's way off. The turbo cars have vacuum-advance distributors that are somewhat unreliable, and have to be manually adjusted!
    Ask me a question about your c900! I promise I either can answer it or know someone who can

  3. #3
    AdyT16s is offline New Member
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    Doesn't sound like its running on all cylinders,i;d check the dizzy hasn't slipped.When running have you tryed pulling each plug lead off to see if it alters how it runs.

  4. #4
    jamengual is offline New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by euromobile900 View Post
    Sounds really strange, like nothing I've ever heard before. But since you've done a lot of work with fuel, how about trying some spark things?

    Are you using the right spark plugs? NGK BCP 7ES are what you want for a turbo. Anything else is probably not going to do you any favors, as proven by many many posters on Saabnet and elsewhere. I don't know why our cars are so picky, but that's what they like.

    Then, if those are correct (check the gap and how worn the electrodes are, too!), look for cracks and problems with your sparkplug wires. You should replace them with Bougicords. They are much better than almost anything else.

    Finally, check your timing. Could be that it's way off. The turbo cars have vacuum-advance distributors that are somewhat unreliable, and have to be manually adjusted!
    Sparkplugs are like 5k old but I already tried to change it to another ones and same thing.

    I I disconnect each inyector and/or each spark plug wire I can see the change in how the engine runs, so each injector is working and each spark plug too, now how good are they working is another thing.

    Is just so weir, is like the car just don't want to run at higher RPMs at all.

    Fuel pressure sims to be working because pressure is at 40psi.

    I have two ICM and it doesn't change anything.

    ahhh men this is so frustrating.

  5. #5
    jamengual is offline New Member
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    Could it be a problem with the knock sensor?

  6. #6
    peva is offline Paul A
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamengual View Post
    Could it be a problem with the knock sensor?
    Knock sensor won't cause this. The APC reverts to base boost if there is a sensor fault, but apart from lack of full boost, the engine runs normally. I really do think this is an ignition problem. The timing may be out slightly but this doesn't really cause rough running, just poor power. You and other guys have covered most of the things I would recommend. I suggest you check the hall sensor in the dizzy and also the plug on the dizzy and the wires to it. It is possible to check a hall sensor with a DVM, but this can be inconclusive as the fault appears to be intermittent. Best bet, if you have it, is to try another dizzy, but do check the wires and plug very carefully.

    PS I have to mention this, but are the plug leads on the correct way? Bentley gives the wrong information. Looking from the front of the car, starting from 12 o'clock on the dizzy cap and going anti-clockwise, the order is; 1-3-4-2.
    Last edited by peva; 17 June 2012 at 17:28.

  7. #7
    jamengual is offline New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by peva View Post
    Knock sensor won't cause this. The APC reverts to base boost if there is a sensor fault, but apart from lack of full boost, the engine runs normally. I really do think this is an ignition problem. The timing may be out slightly but this doesn't really cause rough running, just poor power. You and other guys have covered most of the things I would recommend. I suggest you check the hall sensor in the dizzy and also the plug on the dizzy and the wires to it. It is possible to check a hall sensor with a DVM, but this can be inconclusive as the fault appears to be intermittent. Best bet, if you have it, is to try another dizzy, but do check the wires and plug very carefully.

    PS I have to mention this, but are the plug leads on the correct way? Bentley gives the wrong information. Looking from the front of the car, starting from 12 o'clock on the dizzy cap and going anti-clockwise, the order is; 1-3-4-2.
    Peva finally looks like I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!!!

    I checked the plugs leads and there were in the right position and then I started the car while checking the hall senson and suddenly the car start running worst while moving the hall sensor and then I start moving it in different directions and that car start running better ( far from normal but better) and the connector is brittle and is cracked.

    What will be the best way to replace that?

    could it be that the CPS is bad too and that is why it runs so bad ?

  8. #8
    peva is offline Paul A
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    You don't have a CPS. That is only on non-turbo, but it is essentially the same problem. Instead you have the hall sensor in the dizzy doing effectively the same job. This sounds like it may be your problem. It is either the hall sensor failing or the plug and wiring going to it. These are replaceable. This is a UK site with them. I am sure you will source one in the US. It will be one of these; SAAB 900 classic distributor HALL EFFECT SENSOR aero t16s carlsson convertible | eBay
    SAAB 900 classic distributor HALL EFFECT SENSOR aero t16s carlsson convertible | eBay

    If you are handy you may be able to repair the wiring by soldering with new wires and sleeving but don't do this if you are not confident with wiring. It can be fiddly.

  9. #9
    jamengual is offline New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by peva View Post
    You don't have a CPS. That is only on non-turbo, but it is essentially the same problem. Instead you have the hall sensor in the dizzy doing effectively the same job. This sounds like it may be your problem. It is either the hall sensor failing or the plug and wiring going to it. These are replaceable. This is a UK site with them. I am sure you will source one in the US. It will be one of these; SAAB 900 classic distributor HALL EFFECT SENSOR aero t16s carlsson convertible | eBay
    SAAB 900 classic distributor HALL EFFECT SENSOR aero t16s carlsson convertible | eBay

    If you are handy you may be able to repair the wiring by soldering with new wires and sleeving but don't do this if you are not confident with wiring. It can be fiddly.
    Thanks Peva, I was looking at the pictures and I think that I know which one I need.

    Anyone knows where to get it in the Us ?

    Thanks for all the help.

  10. #10
    peva is offline Paul A
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  11. #11
    rpiereck's Avatar
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  12. #12
    jamengual is offline New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpiereck View Post
    I just contacted thesaabsite to see if they have the rebuild kit, we will se how that works.

    I will keep you guys up to date.

  13. #13
    peva is offline Paul A
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamengual View Post
    I just contacted thesaabsite to see if they have the rebuild kit, we will se how that works.

    I will keep you guys up to date.
    I thought your car ran poorly. Not just hard to start. This procedure will not cure running badly. Wish you the best anyway.

  14. #14
    jamengual is offline New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by peva View Post
    I thought your car ran poorly. Not just hard to start. This procedure will not cure running badly. Wish you the best anyway.
    yes it does but when I moved the hall sensor connector the car start running better or worse depending of the angle so I guess that Hall sensor is affecting in all this, maybe is not the cure but I know that is bad now and that I need to replace it otherwise I will never be able to figure out the problem if is multiple things.

  15. #15
    peva is offline Paul A
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamengual View Post
    yes it does but when I moved the hall sensor connector the car start running better or worse depending of the angle so I guess that Hall sensor is affecting in all this, maybe is not the cure but I know that is bad now and that I need to replace it otherwise I will never be able to figure out the problem if is multiple things.
    There is confusion here. I thought you were referring to the other post by rpiereck regarding replacing relays.
    I think the hall sensor kit may well solve your problem. Sorry for the misunderstanding. I think moving the hall sensor plug virtually guarantees it is the problem

  16. #16
    jamengual is offline New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by peva View Post
    There is confusion here. I thought you were referring to the other post by rpiereck regarding replacing relays.
    I think the hall sensor kit may well solve your problem. Sorry for the misunderstanding. I think moving the hall sensor plug virtually guarantees it is the problem

    Ohh no I wasn't referring to that but on that Note the other day my 900S died because a hidden relay under the relay box went bad, that relay was added for the ignition, I don't know why people do that but I don't like it, I think that is a Mickey mouse solution for something that can be left original and improve somehow ( without adding an additional piece) plus the relay was of the cheapest quality out there (sadly my SPG has same relay added).

    For now I don't really care so I will leave it as is.

  17. #17
    jamengual is offline New Member
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    Cool SOLVED!!!!!

    Today I installed the distributor that my friend Paul sent me and this is what happened :






    Problem SOLVED!!!! I'm so happy.

    Now I have a new question : I was setting the timing and I was looking for the marks and I have to asume that the mark 00 is top dead center and the mark 16 is 16BTDC ? I'm confused about 0 and 00 marks in my flywheel.

    Thanks to all for the help.

  18. #18
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    Badwolf is offline Junior Member Paul K.
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    Wow - that sounds 1000% better. Don't you love it when a plan comes together?

  19. #19
    jamengual is offline New Member
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    It's awesome. I'm so happy.

  20. #20
    peva is offline Paul A
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamengual View Post
    Today I installed the distributor that my friend Paul sent me and this is what happened :






    Problem SOLVED!!!! I'm so happy.

    Now I have a new question : I was setting the timing and I was looking for the marks and I have to asume that the mark 00 is top dead center and the mark 16 is 16BTDC ? I'm confused about 0 and 00 marks in my flywheel.

    Thanks to all for the help.
    You shouldn't be concerned about the 0° and 00. In fact 0° is TDC, 16°BTDC is the one you use.

    Glad the new dizzy sorted your problem. Rebuild the old one at your leisure.


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