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  1. #1
    Hear my Saab a comin' nuclear944's Avatar
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    Transfer case Rattle

    So believe it or not, the SPG is in pretty much good nick now. I adjusted the base boost, fixed the wastegate valve (seized), tweaked the APC, and am currently getting the drivetrain up to snuff. It's looking optimistic. Even the A/C is now working!
    However, there is one issue which I can't diagnose; there is a rattle coming from the front of the gearbox whenever the clutch is engaged. It's a very irregular, unsynchronized rattle. It matches primary shaft RPM.
    I made a video of it, and in the first part you can clearly hear the clatter as the clutch is engaged and disengaged. You can hear it when the car starts moving in the second part but the rest of the video is rubbish.
    Thanks, I'm hoping for a upper sprocket bearing.


  2. #2
    Sam Carlson
    Tutorial Bot euromobile900's Avatar
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    It is likely just your clutch disc. The springs inside mine, designed to take up drive shock, do make a bit of a rattle. The clutch disc noise on my car is quiet, pretty much impossible to hear from inside the cabin, but you can hear it from under the car, where you put the camera in that video. Its nature is random, goes up with rpm, and disappears when actually under load.

    You can check the top bearing, by pulling the front cover and looking inside with a mirror while the engine idles. There will be oil spattering on the mirror, but you should be able to see if the inside race is spinning. If it's not, I'd say leave the bearing alone. With engine off, you can take a strong flashlight and shine it down at the tensioner to try and see how extended it is, although I've never seen one extended all the way. If you haven't mucked with the gearbox, I can't think of any other problem. Sometimes bad gearbox repairmen install the chain tensioner upside down, causing the chain to rub on the oil collector cup beside it, but if the 'box has never had the front cover off (likely never has), this did not occur.

    FYI, when this bearing goes out, it is usually signified by a rpm-dependent whine, not a clatter.
    Last edited by euromobile900; 10 August 2011 at 22:39.
    Ask me a question about your c900! I promise I either can answer it or know someone who can

  3. #3
    Hear my Saab a comin' nuclear944's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by euromobile900 View Post
    It is likely just your clutch disc. The springs inside mine, designed to take up drive shock, do make a bit of a rattle. The clutch disc noise on my car is quiet, pretty much impossible to hear from inside the cabin, but you can hear it from under the car, where you put the camera in that video. Its nature is random, goes up with rpm, and disappears when actually under load.

    You can check the top bearing, by pulling the front cover and looking inside with a mirror while the engine idles. There will be oil spattering on the mirror, but you should be able to see if the inside race is spinning. If it's not, I'd say leave the bearing alone. With engine off, you can take a strong flashlight and shine it down at the tensioner to try and see how extended it is, although I've never seen one extended all the way. If you haven't mucked with the gearbox, I can't think of any other problem. Sometimes bad gearbox repairmen install the chain tensioner upside down, causing the chain to rub on the oil collector cup beside it, but if the 'box has never had the front cover off (likely never has), this did not occur.

    FYI, when this bearing goes out, it is usually signified by a rpm-dependent whine, not a clatter.
    The clutch disc is what I thought of too, but I'm doubtful for two reasons:
    -the whole clutch assembly has been replaced
    -it does it when you take off in 1st and second, regardless of load, even if the clutch pedal is fully released. It is directly related to primary drive rpm

    Jim Mesthene states that it sounds like the upper sprocket bearing. A irregular clatter.
    I'm pretty sure I'll have to open up the transfer case. A member from SC has a guide on this procedure: Replacing the primary drive - a walkthrough guide - SaabCentral Forums

    But I'd like to hear your input as well because I remember reading a thread of yours on replacing the upper bearing.
    By the way, this is on the 90k mile SPG.

    And while I'm here I'd like to say the site is fantastic- very detailed and complex yet efficient and easy to use.

    Thank you kindly
    Wulf likes this.

  4. #4
    Sam Carlson
    Tutorial Bot euromobile900's Avatar
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    The walkthrough guide is also here, so you don't have to go through the evil of SC to see it.

    If you don't want to pay eEuroparts $60 for a new Timken bearing, you can get one from your local auto parts store. It's the same bearing in the rear axle of some Jeeps. SKF makes them, part number BR-9. Should cost less than $40.

    And like I said, don't go pulling the cover until you've visually inspected the bearing through the little hole. Do small work before you commit to big work!!
    Ask me a question about your c900! I promise I either can answer it or know someone who can

  5. #5
    Hear my Saab a comin' nuclear944's Avatar
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    I'm adding your advice to my list, Euromobile.

    Prepare for long rant:
    So, it looks like my stay in the US is coming to an end. I will be back soon, but won't actually "reside" here. Fortunately and unfortunately, I've taken saabolosis, meaning that I'll have to take at least one of my Saabs back to Europe. I've accumulated quite a bit of recreational equipment and various workshop tools during my stay, so I'm planning to bring all of the valuable stuff that's difficult to find in Europe. A two-car container will run me 5,000 dollars to my town in Bulgaria, which is not too bad. We're going to start an aviation tourism business in a quickly developing Bulgaria.
    I'm leaving august next year, so the sedan will have to go. However, it is only worth something to a real Saab enthusiast.

    I'm going to take the SPG with me to Europe; I am not spending any more money on the sedan. So, the mission is to get it in top shape until the day comes. It will receive the highest level of care and maintenance once it arrives.
    My sedan, while an incredibly solid and reliable car, is just way too old. It's heartbreaking just to drive it any longer without being able to give it the proper care. After I removed the roll bar, it was practically a rally car in the gravel.
    Ok, rant over.

    So now pictures of the progress (my SC project thread no longer receives replies):






    New motor mount:


    Trunk needs complete re upholstery and restoration:


    This week, we are going to finish the bondo work, prime the area, realign the trim piece and stoplight, and paint it. It should look brand new. Paint code is 170H which translates to "solid black". Is this the same as flat black?


    Also, we are taking a trip to a local junkyard which has a couple of C900 and 9000's.
    Next is:
    -Inner driver cup
    -primary chain bearing
    -distributor shaft seal
    -fuel level transmitter
    -restore ignition lock cylinder to factory spec
    -trunk
    -SPG panel repaint and realign
    etc etc etc etc...........................

  6. #6
    Sam Carlson
    Tutorial Bot euromobile900's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuclear944 View Post
    I'm adding your advice to my list, Euromobile.

    Prepare for long rant:
    So, it looks like my stay in the US is coming to an end. I will be back soon, but won't actually "reside" here. Fortunately and unfortunately, I've taken saabolosis, meaning that I'll have to take at least one of my Saabs back to Europe. I've accumulated quite a bit of recreational equipment and various workshop tools during my stay, so I'm planning to bring all of the valuable stuff that's difficult to find in Europe. A two-car container will run me 5,000 dollars to my town in Bulgaria, which is not too bad. We're going to start an aviation tourism business in a quickly developing Bulgaria.
    I'm leaving august next year, so the sedan will have to go. However, it is only worth something to a real Saab enthusiast.

    I'm going to take the SPG with me to Europe; I am not spending any more money on the sedan. So, the mission is to get it in top shape until the day comes. It will receive the highest level of care and maintenance once it arrives.
    My sedan, while an incredibly solid and reliable car, is just way too old. It's heartbreaking just to drive it any longer without being able to give it the proper care. After I removed the roll bar, it was practically a rally car in the gravel.
    Ok, rant over.
    Woww, that's something! What shipping service are you using? I've often wanted a car (or two) from Europe, like a Trabant, a 2cv, a Tatra, or a Citroen DS. I didn't think the container would be so cheap, to tell you the truth!

    As always, good luck in whatever you do, SAABing or flying.

    This week, we are going to finish the bondo work, prime the area, realign the trim piece and stoplight, and paint it. It should look brand new. Paint code is 170H which translates to "solid black". Is this the same as flat black?
    Flat black and solid black are different. Flat black won't have a glossy finish, whereas solid black will. I'd bring the code to a proper paint shop, and tell 'em what you're doing, so you can do it right.
    Ask me a question about your c900! I promise I either can answer it or know someone who can

  7. #7
    Hear my Saab a comin' nuclear944's Avatar
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    I'm gonna take a trip to maaco for solid black. Meanwhile, the new fuel sender I purchased doesn't work. I shorted the connectors and the gauge and light work A+, but the sending unit is junk. What a letdown- I paid 25$ for that. Any suggestions on troubleshooting it?

  8. #8
    Paul A
    Regular Member peva's Avatar
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    T16 '93 Ruby - T16 '94 Vert Ruby
    First thing I would do is take the sender apart. There's nothing complicated inside and if you know what you looking at, easy to fix unless it's completely scrap. Inside there's a float connected to a sliding contact making contact to a wire wound resistor coil. The reserve is a magnet attached to the float and a reed switch attached to,the bottom of the coil assembly. Worth a try. It's what I would do with my DVM to hand.
    Last edited by peva; 23 September 2011 at 15:19.

  9. #9
    Hear my Saab a comin' nuclear944's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by peva View Post
    First thing I would do is take the sender apart. There's nothing complicated inside and if you know what you looking at, easy to fix unless it's completely scrap. Inside there's a float connected to a sliding contact making contact to a wire wound resistor coil. The reserve is a magnet attached to the float and a reed switch attached to,the bottom of the coil assembly. Worth a try. It's what I would do with my DVM to hand.
    I had a go at it yesterday and took it apart. It does make sense now. The pipe on which the coil is wound was disconnected/ desoldered from the sender lead. Only the low fuel light worked. I resoldered it and made sure everything worked. Had a merry time getting the sodding thing back together. But now, it says that the tank is full, when it has just over 1/4 in it. The float must have gotten stuck in the "up" position- perhaps next time the tank is filled up it will free it up. If not, I'll have another final go at it, this time taking pictures, before I swap in the one from my saloon.

  10. #10
    Paul A
    Regular Member peva's Avatar
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    T16 '93 Ruby - T16 '94 Vert Ruby
    Quote Originally Posted by nuclear944 View Post
    I had a go at it yesterday and took it apart. It does make sense now. The pipe on which the coil is wound was disconnected/ desoldered from the sender lead. Only the low fuel light worked. I resoldered it and made sure everything worked. Had a merry time getting the sodding thing back together. But now, it says that the tank is full, when it has just over 1/4 in it. The float must have gotten stuck in the "up" position- perhaps next time the tank is filled up it will free it up. If not, I'll have another final go at it, this time taking pictures, before I swap in the one from my saloon.
    Take the rubber cap off and give it a thump with your hand. It might free it up.

 

 
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