Replacing rear engine mount - Saab 9-5 4-cylinder 2.3 (top removal)

I had the same issue on my 2008 9-5. The rear mount bracket does not have the hole that a socket can drop through to access the 3rd (blind) 10mm bolt. I also had to remove the bracket to get at this. To remove the bracket, you take the 16mm nut and thick washer from the top of the mount from the top side. You can then remove the other three bracket bolts from underneath by reaching on the top side of the cat with ~9"-12" extensions - the bracket bolts are 18mm sockets. The bottom most socket is close clearance to the cat, so you can just use a regular wrench. Once the bracket is off and out of the way, you can remove that last 10mm bolt. It adds about another 30-45 minutes to the job but not too bad.

Just FYI - as I was doing this, I noticed that one (maybe two) of the bracket bolts was actually loose! It may have been the source of the clunking and vibration as well. The third bolt was still locked in, the 2nd was too easy to break in my opinion. I still replaced the mount, but it did not show any signs of damage that I could tell. New mount (or tight bolts) took care of the problem. I had to have my steering gear replaced last year and I know they have to take that mount out to do it - mechanic might have left it loose... Anyway, all done.

Good write up! Im gonna be tackling this bad boy next month. This is my last mount to do, and let me tell yall something, these new mounts make all the difference in the idling, handling, and everything!

Does anyone know if I'd be able to use a single extension, to avoid a bunch of slop when torquing the bolts/nut down? There's a whole lot of flex/wiggle stack-up when you use a bunch of extensions like that...

Hi,
I think you probably won't be successful without the joint, so at least two extensions are needed. Just measure the length needed if you want to minimize the total extension length you use. All three bolts and the nut can be visually located from above. I sat on my knees on top of the engine, leaning forward, and using a torch. On my manual transmission I put it in neutral to get sight of the front left bolt. Both the nut and the two other bolts are possible to reach by fingers from this position (to guide the socket onto them for example).
Additionally, I had to loosen all of the three other engine mounts, and lift the engine up a little bit, to get the rear one out, and get the new mount into position.
By the way, excellent descriptions and comments in all the posts in this thread.

I just replaced my mount using this method. My experience was a bit different:

- For the rear bolt, using a u joint adapter as OP did wouldn't stay on the bolt head and actually chewed it up. I used a 1/4 swivel extension, which gave me enough of an angle, and a lot of downward force to keep it from slipping. My 9-5 had a front-end accident in the past, so I'm theorizing that my subframe may be closer to the firewall than normal.
- The top nut was actually the hardest one for me. The little metal 'box' (part of the heater?) was super close and I couldn't get a socket on it (maybe due to aforementioned accident?). A combo wrench wouldn't give me enough torque. So, I 'rented' an OEMTOOLS 12-Point Low Profile Socket Set 9 Piece set from Autozone (I wouldn't buy them, due to their limited use and crap quality). It barely fit between the nut and the metal box. A swivel (3/8 this time) didn't slot all the way in due to the bolt's protrudence, but enough to turn the bolt with, again, a lot of downward pressure.
- The "invisible" bolt came out super easy, but was impossible to install. I just couldn't get it in the hole with a magnet wand, and was afraid of losing it. I took the mount back out, and electrical taped the bolt to the corresponding hole. I taped it in such a away that rightward twist would would remove the tape. Hence, the tape came off whilst tightening.

Some misc tips:

- I've been trying to solve my low rpm vibration (common on this engine I understand) after replacing the other motor mounts, and this unfortunately didn't make a difference. I recommend only doing this if you know for sure the mount to be bad. It was a lot of work for no benefit for me.
- Try to keep a magnet wand on the bolts or any socket as much as possible. Do not trust that you can remove/install with your finger. I almost lost one of the bolts and a 10mm socket, as it wedged down between the subframe and the firewall.
- Swivel extensions are handy for these cars, if you don't already have a set.
- Jack up the motor/trans as close to the mount itself as you can safely do. Jacking it up where the OP appeared to didn't lift it enough for me.