Saab 9-5 - Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) change - 2.3t and 2.3T

These instructions are for the 2.3 4-cylinder engine.

Tools needed

• funnel
• 24mm wrench/spanner or adjustable wrench
• ramps or jack/axle stands for raising the front of the car
• container for draining the used ATF

Parts/supplies needed

• 12 liters/quarts of ATF
• 18mm aluminum washer

Tip
4 quarts of ATF brings the fluid level right at the minimum on the ATF dipstick. 1 quart = 946ml so 4 quarts is 3.78 liters. Difference between min and max = 0.5 liters. I saved about 1/4 of the bottle of the 2nd change (used some of the drained ATF) and used that on the final change with the other 4 quarts so the level was right between min and max.

Important note
Starting with model year 2006, the engine does not have an ATF dipstick anymore . This may make it more difficult to fill and check the correct level. Please refer to the WIS instructions in this thread and check out this post before you drain the ATF: http://saabworld.net/showthread.php?...ll=1#post67224

Type of ATF and interval

1998-2001 4-speed AT
Dexron III - Texaco Texamatic 7045 - mineral oil based
Find Dexron III on Amazon: http://amzn.to/1MRhxVj

Change at:
60,000 miles / 96,000 km (North America)
66,000 miles / 110,000 km (Europe, rest of world)

2002-2009 5-speed AT
Saab 3309 - mineral oil based
$58 per case of 12 on Amazon with free shipping: http://amzn.to/1MRhngF

Change at:
60.000 (MY06+), 90,000 (MY05) or 100,000 (MY03) miles

Note: Saab changed the change interval through the years. While they advice 100K miles for MY03, it's safe to assume 60,000 miles should be used for all model years MY02 and up.


Difficulty rating (scale of 1 to 5):1 - Easy
This is very easy to do yourself. If you can hold a wrench, loosen/fasten a bolt and pour liquid from a bottle, you can do this!

Time estimate:1-2 hours for all 3 changes

Instructions

Warm up the engine and transmission by going for a short drive if the engine is cold.

Raise the car with ramps or use a jack and support the car with axle stands. I am sure this has been said many times before but never, never work under a car only supported by a jack. Not even for a few minutes. Never!

Attachment 1433

The drain bolt is located to the right of the exhaust when looking from the front of the car. It's the only 24mm bolt in that area so you can't mistake it for anything else. There is not enough room for a socket so an open-ended or ring wrench/spanner is needed. An adjustable wrench will be fine as well.

Attachment 1429

Attachment 1434

Place a container under the transmission and loosen the bolt. The ATF will start draining out slowly when the bolt is almost at its end. Removing the bolt will make the fluid gush out because it's a pretty large opening. Because the engine is warm/hot, this fluid can be very hot so be very careful not to get it all over your hands or arms. It really can cause severe burns.

Attachment 1432

Attachment 1425

Put the bolt back on. Use the old washer for now. Use the new washer after the final drain. About 4 quarts/liters is drained every time so fill up the transmission with 4 quarts/liters of new ATF. The fluid is added through the dipstick tube.

Attachment 1426

Warm up the engine. Shift through Drive and Neutral so the fluid can get distributed through the transmission. Check the fluid level and add if necessary. Drive the car for a while so the new fluid can mix with the old. Some drive it for a week between changes and others drive a few miles. At least 20 miles/30 kilometers seems a good choice but it's just a guess, really.

Repeat the process. The idea is to do at least three times because you can never get all the fluid out. There is about 3 liters left in the oil cooler and torque converter after all fluid is drained. Total capacity is 7 liters, according to the WIS.

After the first change, there is 4 liters of new fluid and 3 liters old fluid in the transmission so about 57% new. The second change drains another 1.5 liter (79% new fluid) of the old fluid and the third .75 liter. So after 3 changes, there will still be .75 liter of the old fluid left which is about 11%. But 89% of new ATF seems good enough for most. You can change the fluid an infinite number of times and you'll never get all the old fluid out. ;)

New fluid
1st change: 57%
2nd change: 79%
3rd change: 89%

This the old and new fluid on a 5-year old 2005 9-5 Aero with 75K miles.

Attachment 1430

Attachment 1428

The drain bolt and the washer. The washer should be replaced after the final change.
Tightening torque for the transmission fluid drain plug is 40 Nm / 30 lb ft.

Attachment 1424

Instructions from the WIS

1. Park the car on a lift. Engage P and apply the handbrake. Diesel: Remove the lower engine cover.

Attachment 1676

2. Place a receptacle under the car and drain the transmission fluid through the bottom plug. Fit the plug and a new seal. Use protective gloves.

Warning
The oil can be very hot if the car was recently driven. Risk of burn injuries.

3. Undo the banjo nipple on the gearbox for the outlet hose. Plug the outlet hose.
4. Fit a hose from the flushing equipment, part no. 87 91 824, to the gearbox outlet.

Lower the car

5. Fill with 4 l of automatic transmission fluid as specified under Weight, fluid capacity and grade of fluid.
6. Place the hose in a graduated receptacle that holds at least 2 l. Start the engine with the selector lever in the P position. Draw off 2 l of used fluid. Turn off the engine.
7. Fill the gearbox with 2 l of new fluid.
8. Start the engine in the P position and drain 1 l of used fluid. Turn off the engine.

Raise the car

9. Remove the extension hose and plug the outlet hose. Fit the oil cooler hoses. The hoses should be horizontal so that they do not chafe against the subframe. Use new seals greased with petroleum jelly.
Tightening torque, banjo nipple on gearbox 27 Nm (20 lbf ft)

Lower the car

10. Depress the foot brake and start the engine with Tech2 connected. Run until the "Read values" TCM menu indicates that the temperature is 80°C. See Automatic transmission fluid level, Automatic transmission, transmission fluid level without dipstick or Fluid level check, 4-cyl diesel. The difference in volume between the max and min marks is as follows: B205, B235: 0.5 l Diesel: 0.3 l. Fit the lower engine cover.

Automatic transmission, transmission fluid level with dipstick

1. Park the car on level ground and apply the handbrake.
2. Start the engine and allow it to idle. Select position D and wait for at least 15 seconds. Then select R and wait for 15 seconds. Repeat for position P.
3. Connect the diagnostic tool and run the engine until it reaches 80°C as per the "Read values" menu for TCM.

Attachment 1673

4. Check the fluid level (engine idling and selector lever in position P). Top up as necessary. Pay attention to the appearance of the fluid and its odour. If it is turbid or discoloured and/or smells burnt, a change of fluid is advisable even if no complaints have been made about poor shifting performance or excessive noise. Refer to Changing the automatic transmission fluid.

Important
In order to correctly read the oil level, the O-ring must be removed from the dipstick and refitted after reading.

Important
Fill up with oil through the dipstick pipe. Do not remove any plugs from the top of the gearbox.

Important
The dipstick has only one measuring range for warm oil. The oil volume between min-max is 0.5 litres (0.5 qts).

Automatic transmission, transmission fluid level without dipstick

1. Park the car on level ground and apply the handbrake.
2. Start the engine and allow it to idle. Select position D and wait for at least 15 seconds. Then select R and wait for 15 seconds. Repeat for position P.
3. Connect the diagnostic tool and run the engine until it reaches 80°C as per the "Read values" menu for TCM.

Warning
Risk for burn injuries when working on the catalytic converter.

4. Remove the plug using 30 16 516 Torx sleeve. Use butyl tape or the like to secure the plug on the tool.

Attachment 1674

5. Check the fluid level using DT-47653 Gauge rod. (engine idling and selector lever in P). Fill with fluid as necessary using 87 92 822 Oil filling equipment. Pay attention to the appearance and odour of the fluid. If the fluid is cloudy/discoloured and/or smells burnt it must be changed even if there is no noticeable reduction in shift quality or noise. See Changing the automatic transmission fluid.

Attachment 1675

87 92 822 Oil filling equipment

Attachment 1677

Important
Fill up with oil through the dipstick hole. Do not remove any other plugs from the top of the gearbox.

Important
The dipstick has only one measuring range for warm oil. The oil volume between min-max is 0.5 litres (0.5 qts).

6. Fit the plug
Tightening torque 30 Nm (22 lbf ft)

I did the first change today. The fluid looked pretty clean when it came out but not so clean when you put it next to new fluid. :)

Attachment 1397

Attachment 1399

I tried to find the aluminum washer at two local car parts stores but no luck.. They never seem to be having whatever I need for the Saab. I just put the old one back one and see if that will leak or not. Can you use a copper washer?

I'll do the 2nd and 3rd change in the next few days and am curious how clean the fluid will look after the 3rd change.

A copper washer will oxidize... won't it?

My oil drain bolt has a copper washer. I wonder why they use an aluminum washer for the AT bolt. Knowing Saab, there must be a reason for it. :)

Loosening the AT drain bolt required surprisingly little effort. It almost felt like I could have done it with my fingers instead of a wrench/spanner.

eEuroparts sells the washer for $0.29. Shipping will be about $10 so I guess I just have to order more stuff to get the free shipping.

Christian at Aktive and scott both recommended Mobil 3309 to me. my 2005 9-5 had approx 80K kms on it when I bought it and ATF came out looking really dirty black. so I did changes weekly for 3 weeks until it was looking all clean red color

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wulf

2002-2008
Saab 3309 - mineral oil based

Change at:
90,000 miles / 150,000 km (North America/Europe)
96,000 miles / 160,000 km (Rest of world)

---

The above 90,000 miles was stated for MY2005. Looking through the latest WIS from 2009, MY2009 shows a change interval of every 60,000 miles. But then, they also specify an oil change every 15K miles for 2005 and every 10K miles for 2009.

I'll be replacing mine every 60,000 miles from now on.

I inhereted my 03 two years ago when my grandpa passed away. The car had 37K miles on it then and while doing a routine oil change I noticed how black the transmission fluid was. I couldn't believe how black it was. My grandpa never drove the car hard. These transmissions must run real hot to burn the fluid up so bad. I cannot imagine going 90k before the first change??? Anyway, I had to change the fluid four times to get it clean. I drove the car a couple hundred miles each time before I drained and replaced the fluid. After it was clean, the car started shifting funny. There would be a slight lag from reverse to drive in the mornings. It was not till this summer when I was commuting 60 miles per day that it went back to normal. I have about 8k on it since I got it clean and am thinking I should change the fluid again. Where did you find a case for $68 shipped? I paid over $100 two years ago.