Respect!! Mr Mandrake :thumbsup:
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Respect!! Mr Mandrake :thumbsup:
I've needed to replace the driver's door decor trimAttachment 16329
but a seemingly easy job turned into a bit of a chore. PO had attempted to fix the old one with epoxy, not a good plan. Removing the old trim with my "special" tool was complicated by the glue. Attachment 16330
Attachment 16331
As you can see, two of the pin holders remained on the door. Had a hard time removing them.
I assumed that the bushings that fit in the door would be useless, so I ordered some more Attachment 16332
I needed 6, and now it's ready. Attachment 16333
A comparison of the old and new. Attachment 16334
It attached much easier, and looks much better. Attachment 16335Attachment 16336
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Back to electrical stuff - ACC display. As noted earlier, the ACC works, but the display doesn't. Attachment 16341
Research shows the bulb is probably out rather than a bad screen, so I'll start there first.
I remove the ACC with my special tool Attachment 16342Attachment 16343
and flip it around to have access to the bulb. Attachment 16344
The third from left, the big one, is the one. Using needle nose pliers, I remove it. Attachment 16345
It looks burnt. Attachment 16346
In goes the new one. Attachment 16347
That's done. But before I check it out, I'm going to deal with the annoying temp sensor fan rattling. I remove the sensor Attachment 16348Attachment 16349Attachment 16350Attachment 16351
This is the area that needs lube. Attachment 16352
After a soaking with WD-40, I replace it. It still rattles. Using a trick I learned online, I take it out and turn it UPSIDE DOWN, and reinstall. No more rattling.
Now to check the ACC. Attachment 16353Attachment 16354
Ready for the road, top down, heat on (it's cool but sunny in the mountains.)Attachment 16355
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Just been working on little stuff, like cleaning carpets Attachment 16387
Attachment 16388
Straightening seat belt straps Attachment 16389
Attachment 16390
But there is one major thing, new 17" rims Attachment 16391
The 16" Alu2 Viking wheels were damaged, two were bent on the inner rim, one was ridiculously bad. Made the car shimmy and shake. Switched them for Alu71 Aero wheels. Rides much better, and to my subjective eye, look better. BUT, by doing that, it's no longer stock. It's a custom now, but after all, it is a fake Talladega...
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Time for some hard stuff - electronics. The SID, to be specific. My SID display has pixels, but lacks functions; I can't access the left side menu. If the power has been interrupted, it defaults to temp. But the minus button on the left doesn't access the menu. Attachment 16414
By using the plus button, I can see both menus, but can't access the left side. Attachment 16415Attachment 16416Attachment 16417
I can scroll down the right side menu fine. Time to check it out.
First thing I do is take the radio unit outAttachment 16418
I then insert 2 long M4 screws into the 2 side holes on the SIDAttachment 16419Attachment 16420
It can then be wiggled out using the screws for leverage. Attachment 16421
Unplug the connection on backAttachment 16422Attachment 16423
Now for the fun stuff. There are many YouTube vids on SIDs, but none about my specific problem. First thing is to remove the front casing. Attachment 16424Attachment 16425
I remove the 2 screws. Then there are 4 clips that need to be depressed, 2 on top and bottom. Attachment 16426
I managed to break 2 in getting it apart. But it came apart. Attachment 16427Attachment 16428
First thing I'm going to do is check the connection. Attachment 16427
I remove the white button strip. Attachment 16430
Using a very small piece of sandpaper I clean the contacts. Attachment 16431Attachment 16432
The underside of the button strip has what looks like contacts that make the connection when the buttons are pressed, then spring back. Attachment 16433
They look fine. I assume connection is worn due to use, and the button no longer makes good contact. I decide to do some "hackery" , and make the minus button shaft longer by adding tape. Attachment 16434
I use 5 pieces, @.020 addition, and see if that works.
Put it back, and IT WORKED!Attachment 16435Attachment 16436Attachment 16437
As with any hackery, you never know how long it will last. Didn't make it permanent yet, just glad it worked. Nice to have a functional SID.
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For taking a chance that you might be able to fix this, congratulations on your success.
For the next time you take on something like this: Soft rubber eraser to clean contacts, you only want to remove the oxidation, not the contact pad. Though it work for you this time cleaning with abrasive can ruin the board.
Digger, thx for the eraser trick. I used 2500 grit very lightly. The circuit board is worn in that spot, actually needs building up. As stated, it was hackery.
As anyone can tell, I have no fear of going into electronics. Perhaps I should put a disclaimer, "Don't try this unless you can accept breakage ".
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Haven't updated in a while, but I've been busy. My top is original, but it is becoming more leaky. Having to rub black silicone into the fabric to make watertight. Attachment 16582Attachment 16583
Looks like shit, but it will do until I get a new top. The curious find my repair fascinating.
I'm rebuilding the right side suspension, with new control and stanchion arms, a replacement fender liner, and a belt guard that was missing. Attachment 16584Attachment 16585
Don't know what happened to the right front to beat it to hell, but Atlanta streets are really brutal. Amazingly, it still drove reasonably straight, but it rode like a eggbeater.
Head gasket retorqued, valve cover plug sealed, power steering return line replaced. Attachment 16586Attachment 16587
But I'm not happy with my rims. Attachment 16588
The Viking wheels that were on the car were bent and ugly. I swapped them out for 17s from an 08 9-3 Aero, thinking a little "rice" would be nice.
I was wrong. Not only do I not like the way they look on this car, but they are troublesome to balance, and the tire beads are prone to leak. I've got 225/45 R17s Fusion 40,000 mile, probably max width at stock ride height. The ride quality is a bit rough, but not bad. But I would like to go back to a 16" rim and add more tire and narrow it to 205 again. To my eyes, these cars look better lowered a bit, but with my current setup, I'm too wide to lower without rubbing somewhere, and the tire width doesn't look proportional to the car when seen from the ends. Expensive mistake on my part. Not planning on doing anything for a long while. Gotta get my money's worth from these tires first.
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