There will still be a lot of oil contained within the cooling system and the torque convertor. Your plan to do it 3 times should be plenty. I just did that to my sister's Accord, only twice though. After 75k of city driving it was toast.
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There will still be a lot of oil contained within the cooling system and the torque convertor. Your plan to do it 3 times should be plenty. I just did that to my sister's Accord, only twice though. After 75k of city driving it was toast.
I just hold the idle valve under the faucet and flush it out that way. It's not technically under water, but either way it should be fine.
Trans fluid change - If the fluid coming out isn't too dark, just 1 drain and fill may be all you need. If it's darker/brown/black - drain it once - fill it,. run it until hot through all gears, drain - observe color and fill. If color looks near new fluid coming out - I'd say you're good to go.
I agree on the powerflushes - they are only good for newer cars or low mileage cars IMHO. If you have a car with a trans going bad SLOWLY they can buy you some time, but that's all. NEVER install trans addatives into the automatic unless you know it's going to fail and you are ready to replace it. Conditioners do not help! If you have a B&G flush done at a dealer or approved shop and the car is under 100,000 miles - then yuo actually get a warranty from B&G products for your trans. This is nice b/c they either pay full cost for a replacement if it goes, or some other combination of labor or parts. Check with your local B&G vendor on the details.
Personally - I'd just go with the drain and fill.
Sounds good. I wasn't planning on a powerflush, just the plain ol' drain and refill.
Thanks for the help guys.
read these FAQs to identified your vibration engine problem.
also check spark plugs (no.: 1) maybe is wet and no working.
I had a sudden, bad vibration on my 2004, 9.3 arc convert...173K, turned out to be a torn motor mount...