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Thanks. I'll definitely chack outside the box before opening it up. I haven't got a chance to play with the Tech 2 yet so I have no idea if I've set up my laptop right or not. I got 3 CDs and a USB with it. I think the USB is a dongle emulator. I've only installed one of the 3 CDs, Anyway... Yes, I'll definitely use the smaller soldering tip if I do get into the board. I used to be pretty good at it but haven't had much practice the past few years so I hope it's external. :-)
Always use a <30w solder pen on electronic boards so you don’t fry the components. If you grind open the module with a dremmel, keep your disk straight so you don’t hit the pcb or components and you should be safe. There’s room above the pcb if u stay in the plastic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Digger
OK, so, it isn't the battery. I took the battery to my battery/tire store and they tested it and said it was fine. I bought a new one anyway. Put the new battery in and it fired up. Yesterday I took a few trips in the car and it seemed to do fine. One of the times I came out to start it, it turned over rather hesitantly but then caught and started. The time I tried to start it after that, it didn't turn over. So, I opened the hood and let it stay that way a while, hoping it would dissipate heat from the engine bay/battery. That seemed to work but I wouldn't think it's a good long term solution. Before I blame the ISM or start looking around for wherever the automatic's version of the neutral safety switch, is there anything I should be looking for in the engine bay? I'm thinking that this is primarily a heat related issue but it hasn't started quite a few times when it was cooled off too. I've got a spare ISM (of unknown history), I guess I'll swap that in and see if it makes a difference.
Thanks for the help and thanks in advance for any further advice.
Well, prior to me installing my used ISM, I took it apart and cleaned all the contacts and put in a little lithium grease. Swapped it out during lunch today and it seems to be working fine. I've got about 6 starts on it so far. I'm not going to call it a success til after I've gone a week with no problems. I also think I'll clean the one I pulled. It looks like someone spilled a large chocolate shake inside of it at some point in time. Maybe that's what the problem with it was.
Ha! Well, that certainly didn't last long. It's been about a half hour since my last drive. Turn key to the ignition position and nothing happens. Now, I realize that it could be the used ISM but I doubt it. It's been working for half a day. My large gut tells me that it's something, possibly related to heat soak to some other component or wire in the engine compartment. I just put in a new battery a day ago so that isn't it.
Any other ideas of what to chase / look for?
Thanks again,
Bryan
OK. I haven't tried to start it today. Instead, I hooked up the Tech 2 and pulled the following codes:
1) AMP1 B1001 45 - Control Module Not Added
2) REC B1020 71 - Rain Sensor Circuit - Communication Error
3) REC B3720 06 - Rear Wiper Relay Circuit - Open / Short to ground
4) REC B0525 04 - Turn Indicator - Right Rear Circuit Open
5) TCM U0212 00 - CIM Missing on BUS
6) ESP+ U2139 00 -CIM Missing on BUS
7) ESP+ 2143 00 - Steering Angle Sensor Missing on BUS
8)ESP+ 2142 00 - Yaw Rate Sensor Missing on BUS
9) UEC B3871 04 - Side Marker - Left Front Open
10) CIMU2100 00 - CIM Was Missing on P-BUS
11) CIM B3110 00 - Remote Control 2 - Low Battery
As I'm new to Saabs and Tech 2, can anyone tell me what the 2nd set of digits in the DTC's represent?
As I have no history on the car, I don't know if the CIM has ever been changed or not. Is it possible to change a bad CIM and not clear the codes? Is it possible for me to determine when, ballpark date-wise, these codes were generated?
Also, in my short research on these codes and other's issues with them, it sounds like it could be a multitude of things that are giving me the intermittent no-start proble. I'm hearing that it could be the CIM, the ABS and/or it's connections, etc, etc.
I don't mind doing the work necessary to get it into a reliable daily driver but I';d rather not shovel money at it by replacing every conceivable module and crossing my fingers.
I've cleared the codes and I'm going to go try to start it.
In the interim, anyone have a good course of action that you've used with a similar situation?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Bryan
The extra digits are the extended code set, something you don't get to see with low cost code readers, or automatically decode without manufacturer specific software.
With all these errors I would start by checking the cable to the CIM and its ground point as it shows most often. Reseat the connector, plug in your Tech 2 and poke around all the screens until you find the ALL Bus menu, run the response tests and the Tech 2 will tell you what to do next. Hope you have TIS working as you need security access to reset the CAN BUS error codes. Clear all codes, even pulling the battery cable doesn't reset these codes and you need to clean the BUS to get things working, or find the module that is making all the noise.
Thanks for the tips, Digger. I have no idea if I have the TIS working as I haven't tried to hook the Tech 2 up to it. I'm fairly certain that I don't. Guess I should try to hook up the Tech 2 to it and find out though...