New 9000 Aero in the garage

New 9000 Aero in the garage - Few questions

Picked up a nice silver 97 9K Aero for my daughter in Vermont earlier this week. Got it home now and sorting it all out.

1. No Boost Gage? Pulled the Aquarium cover and found the hose not connected to anything, but can not find where it passes through the firewall?

2. Distributor plug. There was not one just a sort of plastic freeze plug which was leaking slightly. I popped the plastic plug our and put in the plug from my T5 project. Is this standard for a 97?

3. Radio Code - What a PITA. Had to install a new battery and my daughter just started entering codes till the radio locked out. Had to power the car up for an hour to enter the code which was written on the top of the radio!

4. The Aero seats are awesome which my Impala had seats halfway as comfortable.

5. ABS light is on - PO said front left wheel sensor was bad. Any way to check this without an ISAT or Tech 2

Jeff

I have a 96 Aero with 270K miles and love it. Just bought a low milage 2006 9-5 Aero and the seats in the 9K are indded much more comfortable.

Tom

Welcome! Hate to see a good 9000 goto VT to rot :(

Does the car HAVE a boost gauge in the cluster? If it DOES I take it that it's NOT working and you can hear a vac. leak?

I tried to find you a diagram in WIS but it does not get that detailed for 9000's - I'd have to dig out my book later.
Found this however;

Quote:

[FONT=Verdana]Checking basic boost pressure [/FONT]

http://saabworld.net/webwis_system_i...ainimg_sel.gif

[FONT=Verdana]Position the boost pressure gauge (83 93 514) vertically to reduce the likelihood of instrument error. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]Run the hose through the aperture in the front door pillar and into the engine bay. Connect it to a hose in the intake manifold. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]With 3rd gear engaged (or gear position 3 on cars with automatic transmission) and engine speed below 1500 rpm, accelerate at wide open throttle. When engine speed approaches 2500 rpm, apply the brakes while keeping the accelerator fully depressed so that maximum engine load is obtained at 2500 rpm.
Read off the basic boost pressure on the pressure gauge.
The correct boost pressure is 0.40±0.03 bar. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]If basic boost pressure is outside the permissible limits, continue as described in "Adjustment of basic boost pressure". [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]Remove the boost pressure gauge. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]Perform adaptation, see page 311.[/FONT]

Quote:

[FONT=Verdana]Adaptation of maximum boost pressure is carried out continuously during normal driving. If the Trionic control module is removed or anything else is done which affects the adaptation level, it is possible to speed up adaptation and so attain maximum performance faster by carrying out adaptation of the system as described below. [/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana]Important [/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana]The engine should be thoroughly warmed up. Basic boost pressure should be correctly adjusted. Use fuel of good quality and a high octane rating. [/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana]Cars with a manual gearbox [/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana]Accelerate at wide open throttle in as high a gear as possible from about 2000 rpm up to 3500 rpm. Since the minimum time for passing the adaptation range (2750-3250 rpm) should be longer than 3 seconds, it is best to carry out adaptation on an uphill gradient. Repeat the procedure until maximum nominal boost pressure in regard to the fuel grade used, etc. is attained. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]Cars with automatic transmission [/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana]Accelerate at as wide a throttle opening as possible without activating the kick-down function, from about 3000 rpm up to 4500 rpm. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]Since the minimum time for passing the adaptation range (3750-4250 rpm) should be longer than 3 seconds, it is best to carry out adaptation on an uphill gradient. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]Repeat the procedure until maximum nominal boost pressure in regard to the fuel grade used, etc. is attained. [/FONT]

side of the head SHOULD have a metal plug recessed in the area described. They do like to leak. It's a PITA to resolve but you'll need a tamper proof torx bit and some serious leverage to un cap it with the cover off.

There might possibly be a resistance spec for the abs sensor that you can ohm out and reference...I'll do some searching to see if I can find some information for you