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  1. #1
    Saab Nut
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    Retightening of cylinder head bolts - Saab 9-5 M98-M01

    TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
    Bulletin Nbr: 210-2402 utg. 2
    Date:...........June 2003
    Market: all

    Procedure to remedy coolant/oil leakage from cylinder head without gasket replacement

    Cars affected

    Saab 9-5 M98-M01 with engine variants B205 and B235 up to and including Vehicle Identification Number 13055567.

    Background

    The clamping force in the cylinder head bolted joint can decrease after a period of driving. In most cases the leakage is not so great that the quantity of oil or water decreases noticeably. The leakage can be due to a combination of heat, the tightening process in production as well as that the bolts in the process have been treated with anti-friction coating and wax. After the above Vehicle Identification Numbers anti-friction coating and wax treatment have been discontinued and replaced by phosphatising and anti-corrosive oil. The tightening of the cylinder head bolts in the production process has also been adapted to the bolts' new surface treatment and takes place in steps in the same way as in the after-market.

    In the case of customer complaint see Procedure.

    Symptom description

    Visible external coolant/oil leakage from the cylinder head.

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    Parts required

    79 71 864 Cable tie (CA: 30509025)
    81 24 158 Gasket, 2 pcs/car (CA: 30509682)


    Procedure

    Retightening of bolts is adequate to regain the clamping force in the joint. The gasket is therefore not replaced.

    Following the procedure, clean away oil and coolant externally. Check oil and coolant levels and rectify if necessary. Start the engine and check that the leakage has ceased. In the event of significant leakage or if retightening has not remedied the leakage then the gasket must be replaced. Follow the instructions in WIS - Engine - Basic engine, 4-cyl (petrol) - Adjustment/Replacement - Cylinder head.

    Retightening of cylinder head

    1. Remove the upper engine cover.

    2. Remove the connector and remove the ignition discharge module.

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    3. Remove the crankcase ventilation pipe banjo screw.

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    4. Remove the solenoid valve connector.

    5. Remove the screw for the crankcase ventilation pipe on the camshaft cover.

    6. Remove the nipple for the crankcase ventilation from the camshaft cover and cut off the cable tie at the non-return valve.

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    7. Remove the camshaft cover.

    8. Undo bolt number 1 and tighten it. Repeat this in turn for the other bolts and in fitting order as per the illustration.

    Tightening torque 40 Nm (30 lbf ft)

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    9. Tighten the bolts again in step I in fitting order as per the illustration. Tighten the bolts one more time in step II.

    Tightening torque step I, 60 Nm (44 lbf ft)

    Tightening torque step II, 90°


    10. Clean the sealing face on the camshaft cover and the cylinder head using benzine.

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    11. Smear oil in the recess on the camshaft cover and fit the cover starting at the recess. Following which, tighten the bolts in the order shown in the illustration.

    Tightening torque 15 Nm (11 lbf ft).

    12. Fit the banjo screw to the crankcase ventilation pipe. Use new gaskets.

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    13. Connect the solenoid valve connector.

    14. Fit the nipple for the crankcase ventilation to the camshaft cover and a new cable tie to the non-return valve.

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    15. Fit the screw for the crankcase ventilation pipe on the camshaft cover.

    16. Fit the ignition discharge module and connect its connector.

    Tightening torque 11 Nm (8 lbf ft)

    17. Clean the surfaces of oil/coolant leakage.

    18. Fit the upper engine cover.

    19. Check/adjust the coolant and oil levels.

    20. Connect the exhaust evacuator, start the engine and check that the leakage has ceased.

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  2. #2
    Jose Mateos
    it is what it is...... josemateos's Avatar
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    I just did this back in December...I also replaced my valve cover gasket...I now have a pretty substantial oil leak....I can see some of it coming from the valve cover gasket...I didn't use grease to hold it in place, but I did line up the holes...anyhow the valve cover is leaking some but I can acutally see drips on the bottom of my oilpan....what I'm wondering is if when I retorqued my cylinder head bolts if I caused a leak in the head gasket? Does that happen often? I didn't replace the bolts I reused the same ones, loosening and tightening them one at a time. It seems like the oil is sticking to my motor and dripping down by my pan....I also dropped my pan and cleaned it....and it looks oily around one side of the pan, but I can't tell if all the oil is coming from above that area or from the actual oil pan...the oil pan was done back in july or aug so I don't think that is it as I just started noticing after the retorque and valve cover gasket...I'm having to add about 1/4qt -1/3 qt of oil every wk. I'm thinking of just buying a new valve cover on eeuro for $10.00 and doing it again to see if that fixes it...I would hate to have to do the head gasket....also might mention when I was retorquing the valve cover I didn't have a inch/lbs torque so I guestimated and think that may also have something to do with it...although adding the grease to the gasket would've helped hold it in place and I didn't do that....do you thin that much oil could leak just from my valve cover? I thought I got it on right but I can see very little oil leaking from the side of it where the big half circle part is and it seems like even more out of the back, but its hard to see behind it. Any advise would be helpful...thx!

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  3. #3
    Jeffrey
    Master SaabTech/Moderator Burnsside42's Avatar
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    Thumbs Up:   3
    ha - I never even knew there was a bulletin for this. Looks like I've been doing the sequence wrong all these years. At least I've had 0 issues! I've always just followed the head-gasket replacement pattern - but did the same torque procedure this tells you to. lol

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    European Motor Services, LLC - Point Pleasant, PA 18950 - www.europeanmotorsvc.com

  4. #4
    Saab Fan
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    99 9-5
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    Re: Retightening of cylinder head bolts - Saab 9-5 M98-M01

    Could this cause a large coolant leak? I just bought a 99 9-5 4cyl and it has a coolant leak, haven't had much time to pin point anything as I got the car a day ago but it seems like it's coming from the rear.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

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  5. #5
    Saab Fan
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    Saab 9-5 Wagon 2.0t -99 E85Fuel 230hp
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    Yes it could, but I donīt think that the leakage would be so "large".
    Check this part and procedure
    http://saabworld.net/f29/solenoid-va...on-system-674/

    VERY obvious leaking place!

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  6. #6
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    2002 9-5 linear
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    How can I tell if this applies to my car. it's a 2002 9-5 linear wagon. I have a oil leak that I thought was the valve cover gasket at first but after a really good inspection and reading this post im second guessing my first thought. Does this really help and is there a chance of the leak getting worse?

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  7. #7
    Saab Nut Brad Lauzze's Avatar
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    2011 9-3 Aero XWD Performance by Hirsch
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    Retightening of cylinder head bolts - Saab 9-5 M98-M01

    This is a debatable move. Some people say it absolutely works and others think it's waste of time. I've seen guys do them on '99-'07 9-5s (most recently an '07 Aero with 75k and there were actually 2 or 3 head bolts that I'd throw in the category of loose.)

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    2011 Saab 9-3 Aero XWD Performance by Hirsch "Wolffe"

  8. #8
    Jose Mateos
    it is what it is...... josemateos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clayton View Post
    How can I tell if this applies to my car. it's a 2002 9-5 linear wagon. I have a oil leak that I thought was the valve cover gasket at first but after a really good inspection and reading this post im second guessing my first thought. Does this really help and is there a chance of the leak getting worse?
    It would apply to 4 cylinders only 9-5 only....also I believe they changed the coating on the cylinder head bolts after 2001 remedying the problem, but it could've been 2002? See the WIS And it states the yrs that might have the problem..i think 98-01? I just did the procedure...actually twice...the 1st time I re-torqued the bolts that were already in my motor, then had a valve cover gasket leak so I bought new bolts along with the valve cover gasket and re-torqued them. I was, and still am, getting small amounts of smoke at startup...this is only after the car has set for atleast 4 hrs, and is much worse after shorter drives...it's un-noticable after longer drives, even after sitting for days??? WISH SOMEONE COULD HELP ME WITH THAT PROBLEM!! I checked my turbo and it's clean so the only thing I can think of is the valve seals, which was my orig diagnosis until I found this website...here I was told that the valve seals rarely go out, I was also told that by the Saab Dr in KC...I'm assuming that the previous owner was following the 10k mile oil change instead of the updated 5k...I now do 3k-3.5k and it seems to be getting a little better making me believe that the seals are being reconditioned with the new oil, but I still can't say for sure.

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  9. #9
    Saab Fan
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    Saab 9-5 Wagon 2.0t -99 E85Fuel 230hp
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    Quote Originally Posted by clayton View Post
    How can I tell if this applies to my car. it's a 2002 9-5 linear wagon. I have a oil leak that I thought was the valve cover gasket at first but after a really good inspection and reading this post im second guessing my first thought. Does this really help and is there a chance of the leak getting worse?
    very obvious oil leak places (9-5) are also timing chain tensioner (O-rings) and oil pressure switch itself...check them!

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  10. #10
    Saab Fan
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    2000 9-5 Gary Fisher edition
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    Another source of oil leak is from the oil pump seals. This is accessible through the passenger side wheel well.

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