Looking at a "mighty three"

[TrollhattenSchatten]

I posted this over on SC but it is so quiet there now so i was hoping some of you could help me.

I am looking at a 1967 96 2-stroke triple throat.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=51805e7972

Only rust is on bottom of the door and on the pinch weld.
car is not a monte carlo but has the three carburetor intake (which they did make one for the 67 model year).
it has been sitting two years. the engine is not frozen but it doesn't sound like it starts right away. he said there where no problems with the engine or transmission when he parked it.

The car is $3,500 and is in Houston so i would need to ship it to NY.

Questions -
can you still buy jets for these carburetors? (solex 40bl right?)
exactly how reliable are these cars? is it okay to assume that it would be good for 4 miles daily drive to work and occasionally a 80 mile jaunt?
do these absolutely require premium fuel or is mid-grade okay? lead additive?

The rear brakes are frozen. the parking brake was applied when parked and now he thinks the cable is frozen. how hard of a job is this?

Original thread on SC:
1966 96 evaluation please - SaabCentral Forums

This would be my daily driver by the way. i am also aware these are not the best "flatland" cruisers and any prolonged highway speed requires half-choking of the engine every 2-3 minutes.

Thanks in advance!!!

[Hirsch]

I thought you meant you were buying a 3 series BMW!

[Shazam]

Hmmm... Most carbs used in the V4's don't have removable jets, so if I were going by the trend, I would say no. I'm unfamiliar with the Solex 40bl though. Best bet would to call Chip Lamb at West of Sweden Saab. He does quite a bit of two stroke stuff. West of Sweden SAAB - Vintage SAAB Parts - Richmond, VA - 804-357-4926 I'm not sure if Jack Lawrence does two stroke or just V4, but he is located in Jamestown NY (Tel: (716) 665-4200)).

As far as I know, reliability is a non-issue if it's been taken care of. Again, if you call Chip Lamb, he'll know more.

The rear brake cable isn't a horrible job, but it depends on the rust. I gave up on mine over the summer because I couldn't get a pin out. Basically it's just a cable that runs on the inside of the car in a corrugation on the floor, under the carpet. Goes to the back of the car, out a whole in the floor and is pinned to a lever on the drums. The pins on mine are rusted and I can't get it out. If it's just the cable (typically is as the spring tends to rust and lose it's "springy-ness"), it's just a matter of lifting up the carpet, undoing a bolt at the base of the hand brake, fishing out the cable, undoing a pin, and putting it back together. I could get it out if I really tried, but gave up to work on more pressing matters. Also, some times the brakes can be unstuck if you get under the car and pull on the lever with your hands. I'm currently the guy that has to do that after every time I use the handbrake (cause by the spring mentioned before). See the spring in the picture below? It's all part of the handbrake cable. And the pin goes through the U-shaped bracket at the end. Also, according to skandix that part only fit's V4 96's, but according to other sites, it should fit strokers.


And yes, these are not good highway cars. The normal strokers (non-triple carb) had a top speed somewhere between 60 and 70. Stay there too long and you risk seizing the engine.

[TrollhattenSchatten]

Thanks for the reply sha. That does not sound like too bad of a job.

I will call those two places tomorrow.

I thought these cars topped out around 80?

[Shazam]

Hmmm... most strokers don't like going over 60 from what I heard, but those weren't triple carbs.

[TrollhattenSchatten]

Well....
I just called Chip Lamb....he was very rough around the edges. granted it was after hours but he just seemed very rude almost.
anyway, he said as long as the car is in good condition it should be fine. i could not ask too many questions because he did not seem interested. he confirmed the carburetor was a solex but informed me there was no such thing as a 40bl so i have no idea where i got that from.

I also contacted Gary Stottler down the road from me and he was hesitant to recommend it for the reason i want it but it seems that was mostly from a rust standpoint.

He also said to upgrade the cooling. is this necessary?

[Shazam]

I have only heard good things about Chip Lamb. But when I called him (I've only called him once), I got the same feeling. I was looking for a specific part, and couldn't find it anywhere (the cap and needle bearings that go on the end of the axle in the CV joint). He seemed like he just want me to go away; the phone call was less than 1 minute. For that reason, I always look elsewhere first. Maybe I caught him on a bad day. If I did, it's his fault. Not mine. On the other hand, every time I have called Ashcraft (both Jack and his son Mark, the new owner), they have been the nicest, most helpful, and kind people. For that reason, they are my go to. But they are mostly V4, not two stroke. Besides the engines, many parts are interchangeable though.

As far as cooling goes, I thought it was only a V4 problem. Here in upstate New York, I bet you'll be fine as long as the system is clean and operating properly. I've only over heated twice. Once was from a coolant hose that popped loose, and the second was a scorching day and I was stuck in stopped traffic.

You could easily upgrade by going to a radiator shop and getting the radiator re-cored at a good radiator shop. They can add a lot more fins and tubes to the radiator. But of course, it will cost a pretty penny I bet and might even need to be sent somewhere.

[TrollhattenSchatten]

Oh also what items are included on the 1000 miles maintenance?

[Brad Lauzze]

Basically, lubricate every linkage in the car, check/add fluids as necessary, adjust brakes and clutch, check timing etc.

[Shazam]

Oooops, missed that post somehow. I haven't even added 1000 miles yet. I spend too much time under the car, rather than in the car.