P1120 Manufacturer Air Fuel Metering

[MikeB63]

Can anyone tell me what code P1120 Manufacturer Air Fuel Metering means?

[Digger]

Can anyone tell me what code P1120 Manufacturer Air Fuel Metering means?

It means you probably read the code with generic OBD2 and not Saab specific so it could be telling you that you have a bad or dirty foot feed or throttle body.

[MikeB63]

That's correct, I did use a generic Actron reader. I don't notice anything different performance-wise. I just replaced the exhaust, center muffler back and the next day, the engine light came on. I read the code and cleared it assuming it would come back, but into the 2nd day without it reappearing. I appreciate the response. I kept seeing throttle body for many vehicles, but not specifically Saab. I just found a reference to the pedal sensor. We'll see if it comes back.

[swisssaabist]

maybe related with one of your O2 sensor you've said you're touching exhaust ..

[MikeB63]

Well my Saab's days may be numbered now. Driving today on the highway and my Seprentine belt let loose. Car got hot before I could get to a safe place. Towed to a garage where they informed me that the coolant was low. That wasn't the case before. Had the head gasket replaced early summer. They added a gallon of coolant. Coming home the engine light goes on and i read the codes; P1110 and P0030 cylinder misfire. I am afraid to think that I cracked the head or blew the gasket again. Only had the car since November and have had no luck with it.

[Digger]

Loosing some coolant when you overheat is expected, did the head warp, the gasket blow are you leaking compression gas into the coolant or coolant into a cylinder causing a misfire, these things should be checked before you call the car gone. If push comes to shove: There is the right way to do a head gasket replace, the down and dirty lift and slip cheap way and the desperate, but ultra cheap way that works when it works.

There is also the (You lucky dog) possibility that a vacuum line got pulled loose while work was being done and you have no engine damage to worry about. The 1110 code points to turbo valve, you had a generic 1120 code for fuel air after some exhaust work and you might just find a loose vacuum hose the cause of todays codes.

[MikeB63]

I'm hoping. Need to look for the vacuum hoses. I am praying the coolant level stays steady.

[Digger]

Keep an eye to the coolant level, odds are you will see some bubbling for the next few days and probably need to add some when cold for the next few days, then check regularly every few days for the next few months, if it settles down and stays you're good.

Blowing coolant out the pressure expansion tank usually gets something under the hood wet where it shouldn't get wet and coolant doesn't evaporate like water, but it will drip off with time. In the morning look to see that everything that might have gotten wet is now dry and resetting the ECM will give you a better idea of how much more you will need to do.

[MikeB63]

Thanks Digger. I think I found the P1110 source. Vacuum hose old, brittle, and disconnected. Seems to be running okay this morning, but no heat. I am assuming an air bubble somewhere.

[Digger]

If you have automatic climate control and your heater hoses check for warm and warmer was good and you don't hear any sort of gurgling sound inside the cabin when you turn the heater on, you probably don't have an air pocket large enough to affect heating. Look for another loose vacuum line maybe a blown fuse and if you don't get heat with one of those, you will need to start a new thread to attract the attention of someone who knows how the ACC works.