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  1. #11
    Roger Cook
    Saab Enthusiast
    Join Date
    24 Jan 2011
    Location
    Ypsilanti, MI
    Posts
    183
    Saab(s)
    2008 9-5 Aero, 2006 9-3SC 2.0T, 2000 Viggen Convertible, 2000 9-5 retired at 318K miles
    Thumbs Up:   6
    Quote Originally Posted by teleburst View Post
    Bump, because I could stand to get my car back on the road...
    Sorry this is late. I waited until I could check my WIS to see if it gives a procedure to remove the key cylinder on a 1999 9-3. Unfortunately my WIS only covers the NG 9-3 in addition to both the OG and NG 9-5.

    I am assuming you pried off the raised rubber cover surrounding the key cylinder and found the immobilizer coil beneath. The coil is meant to be attached to the cover and both pieces come off together when the raised cover is turned 10 to 15 degrees Clock-Wise, then lifted off. Since yours is not attached to the cover you should turn the hard plastic ring surrounding/containing the immobilizer coil 10 to 15 degrees CW and then lift it free from the console. See the positional difference between photos #3 and #4 of Frank's original post above. These are the instructions for the OG 9-5 and I am guessing your car is identical.

    I have the same problem with accessories staying powered with the key removed. I have all interior lights disabled, all plug-in power accessories (Digital FM Receiver) unplugged, and take the extra step to turn off the clock on the radio after removal of the key. I ordered a new cylinder nearly 4 weeks ago and continue to drive my car daily while waiting for this part to arrive. No dead battery issues, or even a weak batttery, by making doubly sure everything is turned off when I lock the car.

    The continuous accessory power is caused by the lock cylinder not popping up when the key is turned to the LOCK position. An internal cross hole for a release pin and the actuating ramp for this pin are both worn in my lock which keeps the cylinder depressed an 1/8 of an inch or so.

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  2. #12
    Saab Fan
    Join Date
    15 Jan 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    8
    Saab(s)
    1999 9-3
    Thumbs Up:   0
    Thanks. Yes, after fiddling, I snapped off the cover, which is no huge deal. The part that the coil is wrapped around actually flips up slightly, which makes me a little hesitant to apply too much pressure. So, basically, I should sort of hold it down firmly while I twist it from the side, right? There are no holding pins, snaprings, clips, etc. holding it in place, right? I did try to rotate it with the cover in place, because the picture looked like the unit turned clockwise as a unit (obviously, it's a little different than mine since the cover is separately detachable in the 9-5). Once again, before I snapped the hinges, I was hesitant to turn too hard because I was afraid of some sort of holding device that had to be uncoupled. Still, I managed to snap the bugger off <chuckle>. I've disconnected the battery so no worries about running anything down (plus, the battery is brand new (less than a month old).

    Now, my issue is complicated by the fact that the key, while it can be removed, will not move it to any other position. The ignition is basically locked in place. Could this be simply a function of the pop-up issue, or is there likely something else going on? If there is, is this still something that I can address/diagnose once I get the cylinder out?

    I really appreciate the hand-holding as I currently don't have a car until I can get this sorted out. And finances are very slim at the moment.

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  3. #13
    Saab Fan
    Join Date
    15 Jan 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    8
    Saab(s)
    1999 9-3
    Thumbs Up:   0
    Shortly after posting this, I figured out how to move the immobilizer. Of course, the only hex keys or suitable lever to release the cylinder that I can find around the house are the big ones. Isn't that the way it always is? Murphy's Law incarnate. I'm going to have to make a side trip to buy YET ANOTHER set of hex keys. I must two or three of them scattered to the wind at my house. Back to the issue, am I still looking at a problem that won't go away with a simple cleaning, since this isn't just about the lack of "pop up" but the fact that the cylinder is "locked"? My biggest concern is that it's a shift linkage problem. Can someone outline the possible issues causing this to stay in lock? At least there's a nice explanation of breaking down the lock itself if it turns out that I have to do that, and for that I'm grateful.

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  4. #14
    Saab Fan
    Join Date
    15 Jan 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    8
    Saab(s)
    1999 9-3
    Thumbs Up:   0
    Well, looks like I might have overlooked one thing. I can't get the switch out of the "lock" position, so I guess I'm out of luck in terms of removing the cylinder, since I read elsewhere that the off position is the only position that you can get the release to work. Am I correct at this point in thinking that it might be a shift linkage problem?

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    Last edited by teleburst; 25 January 2013 at 16:00.

  5. #15

    Join Date
    05 Jan 2013
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    2
    Saab(s)
    1984 99 GL, 1998 9-3 SE 2.3
    Thumbs Up:   3
    Quote Originally Posted by teleburst View Post
    Well, looks like I might have overlooked one thing. I can't get the switch out of the "lock" position, so I guess I'm out of luck in terms of removing the cylinder, since I read elsewhere that the off position is the only position that you can get the release to work. Am I correct at this point in thinking that it might be a shift linkage problem?
    i wrote something up earlier (below) but after reading your first post more carefully i can testify it's he exact same issue i had. after removing the key it's impossible to reinsert and turn as the lock needs to pop up before it allows you. but it's good news then, it can be fixed!

    what i think prevented mine from popping out properly was a spring loaded lock pin in the cylinder, that, when the ignition is in lock position, is being pushed in as the spring you see in the first post tries to push the lock up. wear and tear on the pin itself and the bed it runs across made it sticky.

    i eventually managed to get my key turning after several attempts, i even think i did it without the lock "popped out". i did try a severe amount of lubricant to get the mechanism working but on later inspection i don't think anything made it through to the pin due to its position. but if you're up for a proper clean-up later it probably doesn't hurt.

    anyway, just keep trying turning the lock, jiggle the key in and out…

    if you do get the cylinder out i did find that using a pair of pliers grabbing onto the pin and rotating it so that a non-worn side can glide on the bed in the housing made it much smoother in operation. clean thoroughly and grease up, pushing the pin in and out till smooth. be aware that the housing is the softer metal and probably has a groove where it's shaped to push the pin into the cylinder. you can't remove the groove but use a file to remove sharp edges that might trap the pin.

    best of luck!


    it almost sounds like you didn't put it in reverse prior to turning the switch

    but you're right. the key must be turned to off position to enable the cylinder removal. and btw your immobilizer is fixed in the cover itself and should not be removed. simply turn and unhook the cover and unfix the cable.

    back on topic. if you can't turn the ignition the key itself may be worn to the extent that it does not allow (parts of) the lock mechanism to release properly, thus disabling cylinder turn. do you have a spare key to try? it may of course be malfunction further below the ignition switch itself. have your tried repeated attempts shifting to 1st then back to reverse? on my old 99 it sometimes could act up a little.

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    Last edited by saabviking; 29 January 2013 at 01:21.

  6. #16
    Saab Fan
    Join Date
    15 Jan 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    8
    Saab(s)
    1999 9-3
    Thumbs Up:   0
    Quote Originally Posted by saabviking View Post
    i wrote something up earlier (below) but after reading your first post more carefully i can testify it's he exact same issue i had. after removing the key it's impossible to reinsert and turn as the lock needs to pop up before it allows you. but it's good news then, it can be fixed!

    what i think prevented mine from popping out properly was a spring loaded lock pin in the cylinder, that, when the ignition is in lock position, is being pushed in as the spring you see in the first post tries to push the lock up. wear and tear on the pin itself and the bed it runs across made it sticky.

    i eventually managed to get my key turning after several attempts, i even think i did it without the lock "popped out". i did try a severe amount of lubricant to get the mechanism working but on later inspection i don't think anything made it through to the pin due to its position. but if you're up for a proper clean-up later it probably doesn't hurt.

    anyway, just keep trying turning the lock, jiggle the key in and outů

    if you do get the cylinder out i did find that using a pair of pliers grabbing onto the pin and rotating it so that a non-worn side can glide on the bed in the housing made it much smoother in operation. clean thoroughly and grease up, pushing the pin in and out till smooth. be aware that the housing is the softer metal and probably has a groove where it's shaped to push the pin into the cylinder. you can't remove the groove but use a file to remove sharp edges that might trap the pin.

    best of luck!
    Yep, I know that about the cover...NOW. <chuckle>. I've already snapped it off at the hinges. No biggie really.

    As far as shifting back and forth from reverse to 1st, that's obviously impossible at the moment. I did notice that there's a lot of play in reverse, which makes me think that the shift linkage might need to be adjusted. As far as jiggling, I was able to get it to work that way a couple of times, but the last time, I must have tried for 20 minutes without success. This key is a replacement key that I got from the dealership about a year ago, so I don't think that wear is the problem. The only other "x factor" is that I got the brakes done about 2 weeks prior to these problems. The service guy said that the tech couldn't figure out how to start the car, so I had to start it to back it out of the bay. I wonder if he screwed it up somehow. I didn't have any trouble for a couple of weeks though. an you actually put it in lock without putting it in reverse first? If so, I might have a cause for making the shop that did my brakes fix this problem. I just assumed that it would be impossible to do.

    Maybe I'll give another jiggling session a try just to get it to a shop, but I definitely want to get it looked at because I can't have the uncertainty of not being able to start the car at 11pm downtown after work. I can always have it towed under my insurance policy.

    PS, if I AM able to get it to the off position, I'll probably just have a locksmith come out to the house and clean and fix it.

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  7. #17
    Roger Cook
    Saab Enthusiast
    Join Date
    24 Jan 2011
    Location
    Ypsilanti, MI
    Posts
    183
    Saab(s)
    2008 9-5 Aero, 2006 9-3SC 2.0T, 2000 Viggen Convertible, 2000 9-5 retired at 318K miles
    Thumbs Up:   6
    Update to my December 17th posting regarding a failing ignition lock cylinder.

    I ordered the new cylinder on Dec 17th and it arrived on January 25th, almost 6 weeks later. Cost for a new cylinder keyed to my car was only $45 USD. I brought my Vehicle Title with me to the Dealership as proof of legal ownership was required to process the order. Installation required under a minute and everything works properly now. The new cylinder does not have a dust door and neither does the old cylinder. I seem to remember the cylinder on my 2000 9-5 had a spring closing door to keep debris out of the ignition cylinder, so maybe ignition cylinder replacement will become a common task for owners.

    My new cylinder has the key code written on the side of the barrel in permanent ink, such as a Sharpie pen, but the original cylinder did not. The fine engraving on the side of the barrel was not the Key code.

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    Last edited by MI-Roger; 01 February 2013 at 18:17. Reason: more details

  8. #18

    Join Date
    02 Feb 2013
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
    Posts
    1
    Saab(s)
    1987 900 1999 95
    Thumbs Up:   0
    Just took mine apart, because I couldn't get the key to turn to lock and pop up. Followed SaabViking's instructions on taking apart the cylinder and found the small metal pin at the top was broken. I just decided to take it out completely and re-installed the lock cylinder back in the car. Ignition is working again!!! Thanks to Frank Wulfers and SaabViking for all the helpful info in this thread..made the job so much easier!!!

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  9. #19

    Join Date
    26 Feb 2013
    Location
    Victoria Australia
    Posts
    3
    Saab(s)
    Saab sedan 2000 95
    Thumbs Up:   0
    I saw your excellent instructions on ignition lock removal.
    I have the same problemBut with difference.

    Mine is locked in the lock position.
    I have WD40'd it and blownit out with air and tapped it lightly with a brad hammer but it refuses to turn out from the lock position so I can get to that spring loaded release lever.

    Whilst my vehicle is a 93 2000 model the ignition looks exactly the same as in your pictures so I can't see that as being the problem.

    I thought it might have been the remote locking unit as the battery was flat in that but from what I understand the problem with it stuck in the "Lock" position is mechanical.
    Last night I stopped the car and this morning I could not get it out of "lock" no matter what I did.

    I took the electric cover off as per your picture but because it is in Lock I can't get to the release lever.

    Is there any way of getting the barrel out?

    Thanks,
    Merv

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  10. #20
    Saab Fan
    Join Date
    15 Jan 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    8
    Saab(s)
    1999 9-3
    Thumbs Up:   0
    I think you'll have to get into your shift linkage. I finally had to break down and take mine to a repair shop. I'm not sure what they had to do to break it loose, but it definitely had to do with adjusting the shift linkage. Since they would only replace the cylinder, not break it down and clean it, it ended up costing me $825! The cylinder cost something like $425. They were only able to find one vendor who had one. The only upside for me was that I was given a "free" rental car for 10 days. The rental was a new 4 cylinder Jetta, and I wasn't impressed with it at all. It was a car with turbo lag without the turbo <chuckle>.That was worth at least $300 but it was still a huge hit on the pocketbook. If you know someone who you think can tear into the linkage, you can go that route and you can probably save a lot of money by just cleaning the cylinder instead of replacing it. Of course, being in Australia, your workshops might have access to cheaper cylinders, but here in the states, we didn't at the time (I was able to find one on the net for $325 but that was the only one).

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