Ignition Switch Cylinder removal instructions - Saab 9-5

[Schmeeze]

I have another issue/problem related to the sticky ignition switch that I could use some help with. To retrace...I have done the procedure for cleaning the ignition cylinder per Frank's instructions....and that fixed the problem with the lock not "popping up" after turning to Lock positioin.

But I have a more fundamental problem (I think). When I start the car, the key will stay in the "crank" position (even after the car starts) unless I physically turn it back (counterclockwise) to the "run" position. In other words, it does not automatically spring back...and this causes the starter solenoid to stay engaged and over-rev until I turn the key back to Run. A local swedish car repair shops suggests that the ignition module beneath the cylinder itself (i.e. the thing that the cylinder fits in to) is the culprit....that it is worn, needs to be replaced, and will cost about $600. Any advise on this..and if there is a repair I can do myself, would be appreciated.

[Pbuck1]

Having intermittent problem similar to others where cylinder not rotating counter-clockwise to the 'lock' popped up position. Had a garage look at it and the mech pointed out that he had to turn and lift the cylinder to get it into the proper position. Now I have a small hex wrench in the coin caddy in front of the shift which fits into the key slot. If cylinder doesn't 'lock' I simply pop it up. Now, garage also told me that there is an electronic part underneath the cylinder which needs replacement to correct a starting problem I had afew days ago. (Car would crank & almost catch, but wouldn't catch. I retried several times, 8, 10 ?, before it cooperated. This specific problem has not recurred, but after starting CEL came on & code is p1251). Garage wants $400+ to replace this 'mystery electronic part'. Is there really one in there.? Is that a reasonable fee.? Is the 1251, the non-start, and high revs (about 1,500 rpm) immediately after start up in any way related.?

[hans werner seitz]

> removed the ignition switch cylinder - thanks to the Frank Wulfers instructions without any issues

> extracted the cylinder from its housing - thanks to the guidance from saabviking only with minor Problems

> cleaned all the single parts with petrol and greased all parts very carefully

> assembled everything in less than 30 minutes

> made an excellent experience but without the expected results:

after starting the engine, the ignition key will not turn automaticly into the ON Position - which means the end of the German MOT certification

??? Where is the spring to turn back the key after starting ???????????? urgent help needed

thank you all Werner and the 1999 9-5 from Cologne Germany

[nomeans]

very good instructions, helped me out a lot. I think expanding the spring was critical in my case. And the dry graphite lube made it all nice and slick, hopefully it lasts.

[stevebower]

This was very helpful.

My lock seems to be very worn, so where the brass sliders stuck past the barrel I filed flush, to give a smooth movement. In theory, not as secure, but it all seems to work. You can even omit sliders and springs altogether (even less secure). I'm also finding that the retaining pin is sticking somewhat, meaning that it isn't 100% reliable in popping up.

[Finding41]

This was very helpful.

My lock seems to be very worn, so where the brass sliders stuck past the barrel I filed flush, to give a smooth movement. In theory, not as secure, but it all seems to work. You can even omit sliders and springs altogether (even less secure). I'm also finding that the retaining pin is sticking somewhat, meaning that it isn't 100% reliable in popping up.

I wouldn't worry too much about the security of the car. There is a chip in your key that needs to be present for it to start and run.
I took all the brass dogs and springs out of mine. It works fine except you can pull the key out while it is running. It still runs when you do that.

[2000saab95]

Removed the lock cylinder based on tutorial. Used carb cleaner to clean it, used dry lube to lubricate. Reinstalled cylinder key turns but car says nothing. Possibility carb cleaner got into key fob. Saab 2001 9-5 Aero wagon. Please help!!

[MrCrank]

Thanks to all here with the instructions- I'm finding it hard to get service with my '04 95 Aero wagon.

I've followed the instructions above to try to get the remote locking working again. After I did the clean on the lock barrel and reassembled, the lock still doesn't pop out, and I'm now encountering a new issue- the car had been starting first time you turn the key before I tried this repair, but now I get the ignition lights coming on, but car won't crank for 3 or more attempts but so far has finally started.

I removed the lock again and did another clean in soapy water, and that seems to have made the issue worse. I plan to disassemble and do another clean and use graphite powder for lubricant and see if that helps.

Anyone else experienced something similar?

[MrCrank]

Hello- just in case this might help anyone else working on this issue. I've resolved my ignition/lock barrel problem with the following:
- I initially sprayed WD40 into the ignition lock to try lubricate - very bad idea, I believe that it must have seeped down into the switch beneath causing intermittent start problems
- I removed the lock cylinder according to above instructions, and then used a different WD40 product called electrical contact cleaner- which i sprayed through the lock to clean it and the other WD40 product I had sprayed in. Its alcohol based and runs out through the lock, then dries quickly
- then bought graphite lubricant and squirted into the lock, then got the lock popping out as it should after much opening closing, and stretching the spring a bit. This fixed the remote locking which hadn't worked for a few years previously after I had installed the lock back into the car.
- Before i put the lock cylinder back in the console, I sprayed a liberal amount of the electrical contact cleaner down into the switch at the bottom of the lock barrel in the centre console. Let it air for a few hours, before replacing the lock cylinder
- not only did that solve the intermittent start issue- but the security system started working again (red led light on the dash flashes, alarm works etc) - and a bunch of other errors (low battery on key, security failure etc) that used to appear in the messages have gone.

Just thought I'd let everyone know as it was a $10 and a couple of hours messing around to fix a problem that seems to be written about widely.

Good luck!

[traT3gic]

Ok, sorry all to resurrect an old thread but I am having this exact issue with a slight variance. I seem to be missing a piece of the assembly that would force the spring loaded tumbler push pin down the ramp thus popping up my key when in full OFF position. Along the path of this ramp am I missing a metal nub of some sort to push in the pin and send the spring loaded assembly down causing the platform to popup upon key extraction ? This is what I am talking about:

Lock assembly



Lock assembly in the Off position that releases the key, not e the pin is not down in the valley and I cant push the tumbler any further down, so the key platform does not pop up


Better view of the problem location above


another angle of the problem



Key in ON position


Key in correct Off position if I manually press the push pin as I rotate the key to Off


another view of where the key should be