Ignition Switch Cylinder removal instructions - Saab 9-5

[traT3gic]

any chance someone could post a pic of their assembly in the same area ? I am losing my mind as to why I cant jut get the push pin down in that valley as no amount of manual or spring under the white cap pressure is making it go down unless I manage to manually press in the pin with a small screwdriver

[bforr]

any chance someone could post a pic of their assembly in the same area ? I am losing my mind as to why I cant jut get the push pin down in that valley as no amount of manual or spring under the white cap pressure is making it go down unless I manage to manually press in the pin with a small screwdriver

I came across your post as I have encountered the same problem.
I won't add photos as they would just show the same issue - your pics are very clear.
I removed the cylinder thinking it was a case of cleaning and relubricating as today I could not get the barrel to pop up at all (this was a random problem to today - now constant).
Did you find any solution ?

[bforr]

I disassembled the barrel cleaned the tumblers and barrel, including a spring loaded latch button near the top of the barrel (take great care not to lose the very small springs controlling the tumblers - if you do lose one then decide to omit the related tumbler - also the tumblers are referenced by stamped letters on the metal- make sure you note the sequence and reassemble in same sequence), lubricated with spray lithium, reassembled - slightly sticky initially but all working great after 1 day. The top spring loaded latch button seems to be the important piece to allow the barrel to hop back when removing the key. look at http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=254855 which identifies the necessary area to work in.

[toni1409]

Hi guys. I have 95 2003 automatic. I cannot get the key to turn. It goes from PARK to near OFF position. I cannot get the cylinder out since it doesn't go fully to the OFF position. I tried wiggling while applying lubricant. I can move shifter to any position. Any suggestion appreciated.

[toni1409]

bump. I am thinking of drilling the cylinder and putting used one from e-bay. Will it work?

[hapazard]

I want to thank Nordwulf and Saabviking for the excellent instructions for how to remove and disassemble the ignition barrel. I used these to wiggle out my stuck barrel, disassemble and clean the components, file down the offending tumblers to fit, and to assemble everything. You guys saved my a lot of time and money, cheers!

[hapazard]

any chance someone could post a pic of their assembly in the same area ? I am losing my mind as to why I cant jut get the push pin down in that valley as no amount of manual or spring under the white cap pressure is making it go down unless I manage to manually press in the pin with a small screwdriver

As bforr mentions the top spring loaded latch button is what may be blocking the barrel from popping up. I had the same problem and ended up removing this piece altogether and the barrel now moved easily. The only negative as far as I can see is that I am now missing the dust cover, but that didn't deploy previously either....

[hapazard]

bump. I am thinking of drilling the cylinder and putting used one from e-bay. Will it work?

I would advice against that since you would probably damage the tumblers and would then have to replace all your keys and reprogram your car to accept the new keys. If you absolutely can not get it to move (took me and my girlfriend >1h to get our unstuck by wiggling) I guess that it may be the only remaining option though.

The cheapest way of fitting a new cylinder is to remove all tumblers from the new cylinder, in essence allowing it to accept any key - including you old ones. The car still will not be able to be started by another key due to the proximity sensor which only accept the correct key.

This may make the resale value drop since it is quite detectable that the lock does not grab the key - but maybe that is not you biggest concern?

PS: You could however file down the non matching tumblers in the new cylinder, and maybe removing the most offending ones altogether. This would make it less obvious that the lock has been tampered with as it would retain some grab.

[dmblenox]

Hi, This is a great write up. I love the pix. Unfortunately, I still cannot get the 3mm allen key to release the cylinder. Should it feel springy when it is pushing the right place? Is it a little up or down the cylinder? Is there a better tool for the job?

Thanks in advance.
Dan

[hapazard]

Hi, This is a great write up. I love the pix. Unfortunately, I still cannot get the 3mm allen key to release the cylinder. Should it feel springy when it is pushing the right place? Is it a little up or down the cylinder? Is there a better tool for the job?

Thanks in advance.
Dan

Hi, if I remember correctly it is a little to the left. It does not hold open so you have to apply an upwards force simultaneously as you are depressing the tab, is is very hard to fifferentiate between the tab being depressed and the allen key slipping off the tab.... Being two really helps here (although with experience it is not needed). In order to achieve solid contact with the tab leverage helps. I found it much easier to use an 3mm allan key that had double the shaft length compared to a normal one, simply because I could grip it with a larger part of my hand as opposed to only a pincer grip.

Hope you get it out!