Welcome to the world of Saab ! Register
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 39
  1. #21
    Marty Jackson
    Saab Addict Finding41's Avatar
    Join Date
    17 May 2013
    Location
    London Ont. Canada
    Posts
    641
    Saab(s)
    Sadly a Volvo XC90
    Thumbs Up:   1
    I'd stay away from any type of lube on the receiver or the ball.
    I lent out one of my work vans with a trailer once and my buddy lubed both! What a mess!
    I think he used WD40... It stains you pants at the level of the ball!
    If you like me like to keep the hitch in the back and not in the receiver you will find greasy spots inside the car.
    Typically I only have the ball hitch on when I am towing or racing Mustangs. (That makes em feel even worse...)

    0 Not allowed!
    finding41
    Marty Jackson
    www.northchannelcharters.com

  2. #22

    Join Date
    06 Jun 2015
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    3
    Saab(s)
    2000 9-5 2.3t wagon
    Thumbs Up:   0
    I just installed the Draw Tite hitch on my 2000 9-5 wagon. For my wagon, there are covered, shallow storage trays on either side of the spare tire well. These pop out, and the foam plugs are beneath, allowing direct top access to the two rear bolt holes. The forward bolt hole on the passenger side does not have an access hole directly above it, so fishing this one through was required. My method: use the long thin metal strip from an old wiper blade. It is just the right mix of rigid, flexible, and thin. Duct tape the bolt to one end of the metal wiper strip with a single tight wrap. Too many wraps of tape will be too thick for the bolt to pass through the blocking plate and the bolt hole. Thread the metal wiper strip through the blocking plate, making sure the bolt wrapped with duct tape can still pass through the blocking plate. Keep the blocking plate separate from the bolt--but still threaded with the metal wiper strip--to make it easier to fit the blocking plate and the bolt through the access hole. Put a 45 to 90 degree bend near the other end of the metal wiper strip in order to be able to poke it out through the bolt hole when you reach it. The metal wiper strip is strong enough to drag everything through and be able to stand the bolt vertical, to drop through the bolt hole.

    One other thing I did was put styrofoam plugs into the ends of the hitch bar. The hitch bar is a square tube and the ends are left open by the mfr. I didn't want road salt, grime and water getting in there, so I cut plugs from some styrofoam packing material. Cheaper than $5 rubber covers.

    Update: I settled on the Tow Ready wiring converter instead of the more commonly seen CURT one (Tow Ready 119179 ModuLite Protector). It seemed better engineered to avoid upsetting the SID and DICE.

    0 Not allowed!
    Last edited by qqac; 08 June 2015 at 20:09.

  3. #23
    Saab Enthusiast XLR99's Avatar
    Join Date
    18 Nov 2014
    Location
    Medina, OH
    Posts
    113
    Saab(s)
    '04 9-5 Aero Wagon, '90 900
    Thumbs Up:   2
    Wulf, how much material did you end up taking off to resolve your bike rack issue? I have the same issue with my Swagman bike rack on my 9-5 wagon. I have two ball mounts which both work fine in this receiver, and I've used the bike rack on two other cars with no issue. I hate to remove anything off of either, but even using a 2lb hammer, I couldn't tap the rack far enough into the receiver.

    0 Not allowed!

  4. #24
    Frank
    Administrator nordwulf's Avatar
    Join Date
    30 Jul 2010
    Location
    USA - Netherlands
    Posts
    7,858
    Saab(s)
    previous: 2006 9-3, 2001-06 9-5, 2011 9-4X
    Thumbs Up:   123
    Hard to say how much I actually removed. It doesn't seem all that much and probalby mostly paint.

    0 Not allowed!

  5. #25

    Join Date
    06 Jun 2015
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    3
    Saab(s)
    2000 9-5 2.3t wagon
    Thumbs Up:   0
    Quote Originally Posted by XLR99 View Post
    Wulf, how much material did you end up taking off to resolve your bike rack issue? I have the same issue with my Swagman bike rack on my 9-5 wagon. I have two ball mounts which both work fine in this receiver, and I've used the bike rack on two other cars with no issue. I hate to remove anything off of either, but even using a 2lb hammer, I couldn't tap the rack far enough into the receiver.
    You could try dragging a straight edge across each face of the portion of the bike rack mount that goes into to the receiver in order to detect any subtle surface curvatures, then using a caliper ($10 digital micrometer on sale at Harbor Freight) to measure and compare dimensions with the ball mounts that do work.

    0 Not allowed!

  6. #26
    Frank
    Administrator nordwulf's Avatar
    Join Date
    30 Jul 2010
    Location
    USA - Netherlands
    Posts
    7,858
    Saab(s)
    previous: 2006 9-3, 2001-06 9-5, 2011 9-4X
    Thumbs Up:   123
    My new Allen bike rack sildes in very easy and actually has quite some play inside the hitch. Fortunately, it has a wobble bolt to secure it to the receiver so it doesn't move at all when tightened.

    It's an inexpensive rack but works great for what I need it for and fits the 9-5 nicely. It can tilt back so you can still open the hatch when it's on the car.

    Name:  Allen 522RR bike rack.jpg
Views: 492
Size:  116.5 KB

    0 Not allowed!

  7. #27
    Saab Fan Quick Cal's Avatar
    Join Date
    20 May 2016
    Location
    Mid-West
    Posts
    37
    Saab(s)
    02 9-5 Wagon 2.3t Auto
    Thumbs Up:   1

    Recommend me a draw bar

    I'm about to pull the trigger on a draw-tite 36286 class ll hitch. I see that's what a lot of you are using.

    So I need to figure out the rise or drop of the draw bar I should get. I'd like to order it at the same time to save on shipping.

    Using the info below from etrailer I know the height to the bottom of the trailer part is 14". But I don't have my hitch yet so I can't measure the car part.

    I know it's kinda subjective because of suspension sag and all, but do any of you guys with a wagon have this hitch and can give me a measurement to the top of it like shown below.

    Measure Hitch and Coupler for Height

    For safe and comfortable towing, the trailer should always be as level as possible. A level trailer handles well, promotes even tire wear, and minimizes strain on both the trailer and tow vehicle. To help you tow your trailer level when trailer and vehicle heights differ, some ball mounts are made with a built-in rise and drop. See how to determine whether you need a ball mount with a rise or drop, below.

    With the tow vehicle parked on level ground, measure from the ground to the top of the receiver opening.

    With the trailer level, measure from the ground to the bottom of the coupler.



    If the hitch height is greater, use a ball mount with a drop; if the coupler height is greater, use a ball mount with a rise. Select a ball mount that has a rise or drop measurement that is closest to the difference between the hitch and coupler heights.

    Determine Ball Mount Rise and Drop

    Rise is the distance from the top of the shank to the top of the ball platform when the ball mount is oriented for greater coupler height.

    Drop is the distance from the top of the shank to the top of the ball platform when the ball mount is oriented for lower coupler height.




    Or just tell me what draw bar you use.

    0 Not allowed!

  8. #28
    Frank
    Administrator nordwulf's Avatar
    Join Date
    30 Jul 2010
    Location
    USA - Netherlands
    Posts
    7,858
    Saab(s)
    previous: 2006 9-3, 2001-06 9-5, 2011 9-4X
    Thumbs Up:   123
    Quote Originally Posted by Quick Cal View Post
    I have the Draw-Tite hitch on my 2005 9-5 Aero and the hitch height measurement as in the above picture is 12".

    I have the sport suspension with added spring spacers so also measured the ride height so you'll have a point of reference for your 9-5. I measured RF as in the picture below and that is 26.5".


    0 Not allowed!

  9. #29
    Saab Fan Quick Cal's Avatar
    Join Date
    20 May 2016
    Location
    Mid-West
    Posts
    37
    Saab(s)
    02 9-5 Wagon 2.3t Auto
    Thumbs Up:   1
    I appreciate your effort. But you're a day late,,,lol. I all ready placed the order with out getting a draw bar.

    I was actually looking at your hitch install thread. I was going to use it for reference. But my car is not an Aero so the bumper is different.

    The vendor said measure 1" below the rear bumper and that should be my measurement I want. But He also said I couldn't return a scratched up draw bar. So I decided it's best to weight until I have the hitch mounted and go from there.

    Thanks again for your effort.

    BTW. I'm going to make my own copy of the OEM plug and play taillight converter that I mentioned in another thread. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

    0 Not allowed!

  10. #30
    Saab Fan Quick Cal's Avatar
    Join Date
    20 May 2016
    Location
    Mid-West
    Posts
    37
    Saab(s)
    02 9-5 Wagon 2.3t Auto
    Thumbs Up:   1

    Check out my 9-5 trailer hitch install and my DIY taillight wiring module

    I finally got a hitch installed on my wagon. I went with the Draw-Tite 36286 class ll. I also made my own DIY taillight module that normally cost around $150. It's virtually the same thing. Just plug and play baby,,,lol. It does take a set of high dollar crimpers though. But I all ready had them for my motorcycle wiring projects.

    I did a lot of research between Saabcentral and the Saabworld forum. So I want to thank everyone else for their info. So some of this is repeated. But I do want to add a couple of tips.

    I read where other guys said to drop the mounting bolts through the frame first. Well if you do that you just knock them back up in there when you lift the hitch up. I just followed the directions and loosely installed the 2 smaller bolts where the tow hook was attached.

    Speaking of lifting the hitch. I first tried the balancing act on jack stands and a floor jack. I soon got tired of that and just man handled it up into place and started the center bolts. Of course it would be much easier with some help.

    At first I spent a lot of time trying to fish the bolts through the hole with a wire. Then I had a bright idea. But unfortunately I didn't think of it until the last bolt,,,lol.

    I used a telescoping magnet and a small screw driver. I imagine you could use one on a flex shaft too. Through the elongated hole I first pushed the flat plate through and lined it up. I the held the bolt with the magnet and pushed it towards the hole until I could see it trying to poke through. Then I used my small screwdriver to wiggle the bolt and it dropped right in. Took all of 5 seconds. I swear,,,lol.





    This is the access hole from underneath on the passenger side. I forgot to take a before picture. But I'm sure you can figure it out.





    I'm not sure if you can use the magnet on the drivers side because the muffler may be in the way. But give it a shot. If not, it's easy.

    I'm not sure if it's the same for a sedan and a wagon, but should be pretty similar.

    On the wagon the left side has a storage compartment that has a plastic tray in the floor that needs to come out. I think in the sedan you might just be able to lift the carpet up. Then you will find a foam plug in there directly above where the bolt need to go. Just drop your bolt in and all is well.

    Back to the wagon. I first removed the plastic trim piece that goes all the way across the back. It's held in place by a torx screw on each end. Then just pull it up to release some clips.





    Here you can see a tab on the plastic tray that is covered by the rear trim piece.






    Once you have the tray out you will find your prize. The foam plug.






    Remove it and drop your bolt in.





    The rear hole on the passenger side takes more effort. That's if you don't use the magnet from under the car. And I read there no access hole to the front bolt. So you have to use the magnet or a wire. What ever you decide.

    I could not get the plastic tray out for nothin. So I removed a couple of the carpet trim fasteners and just pried the tray up some. This allowed me to drop my bolt through the hole.





    Here's a shot bent way down.





    You hardly notice it just walking by.





    Here's the plug and play taillight module I made.





    Here it is loosely installed. It has a mounting hole that I slipped over an existing screw. I still need to secure it with the supplied double sided tape. See the green wire hooked over a screw. That's where the factory plug was secured with a cable tie. But I temporarily removed it. I'm going to see if I can find a nut that will thread onto that screw to secure the white ground wire. I actually over tightened the self taper and striped the hole. It's still working. But I need to re-do it.




    Loosely attached.





    Ready to hit the trail.



    Lights, camera, action!! All the lights works perfect so far. The module seems to be working fine. But I have not got a chance to actually pull the trailer yet. Sorry for the fuzzy pictures. But it was night time.





    So there it is. Just trying to help the next guy from scratching his head so much,,,lol.

    If anybody has any suggestions on how something could be better please speak up.

    Also. I thought about if there was any interest I might make up some taillight modules and sell them. But every time I try to make a buck it backfires on me. Let me know if anybody wants one. It would be a lot cheaper than the Saab unit.

    0 Not allowed!

 

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
All times are GMT. The time now is 13:44.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5
Copyright © 2021 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.