Instruction Book Needed

[Mr. Fix-it]

I am the prowd owner 03 Saab 9-5 under 78K miles. Unfortunately there are a couple of things that need fixed.

1. Probably the biggest thing is the approximately -3 degrees camber on the rear wheels. I took it to a garage where there is a lift. The mechanic took a very large pry-bar and put it along side the front bushing of the control arm and was able to move the vertical axis of the wheel a great degree, although the bushing didn't appear to be worn. His fix was to totally replace both arms (said to replace the bushings individually would not be cost effective). The cost of each arm is $360.00 plus aprx $35.00 tax each side. The installation labor would be $150.00 each. This particular person also is not familiar with Saabs.

If I look long enough, I may find an independent Mechanic who can and will do the repair, if indeed that is what is wrong.

In the meantime I have decided to buy a bunch of shims and take them with me to the frame and axle shop where they do the alignment.

2. The next problem is an oil leak, according to a threat that I have read, it is the oil sensor. Should be an easy fix. This mechanic wants $250.00 to 300.00 to disassemble everything so he can see where it is leaking. When my hands and arm have healed enough, I will remove the starter and replace the oil sender unit.

3. I had a CEL for about a year. I replaced the gas cap twice. I discovered that if the gas tank remained above 1/2 full the light would stay off. I asked a knowledgeable individual if it could be the fuel pump leaking air and was assured that there would be an almost unbearable gasoline smell in the rear of the car. Maybe my nose doesn't work, but there was only a very faint smell of gas.

Finally I gave up. I removed all obstacles for access to the fuel pump area. I found a small wrench that fit from one side to the other of the fuel pump cover. I then used a sink basket plumbing tool to hold to the wrench and I tightened the cover maybe an eight of a turn. I reset the CEL by disconnecting the battery for 20 seconds. The CEL is an item of my history.


4. I am thinking that a Repair manual will tell me how many and what size bushings for the rear control arms I will need. No one that I have talked to seems to know. This seems to be a highly guarded secret. Read the thread on the replacement, this information is missing. I am sure there is such a manual available online. Any help is greatly appreciated. Also is there anyone in the Las Vegas, Nevada area interested in doing or helping with these repairs?

[Shazam]

Well, first off. I'm not sure if you know, but the rear camber is not adjustable. Some people have used shims though and they are offered at various places (Taliaferro Imports, Inc., www.thesaabsite.com). It's not uncommon that people assume there is too much camber (toed in at the top). But, it's also not uncommon for there to actually be too much camber. I believe Frank fixed this on his 9-5 wagon with a new set of shocks.

Also, his quote for arms prices is pretty damn high. Here, $177 a piece. http://www.thesaabsite.com/95/Saab-9...r.html#linkbar They've also got a bunch of bushings there. Not sure which ones you need.

If I were you I would do some searching for a Saab shop, or a Euro car shop.

[indy500]

For your request for a manual, the official (or at least as official as it can be since Saab is no longer) shop manual is known as the WIS (Workshop Information System). You can get it pretty cheaply on ebay and then load it on your pc. The WIS covers the 9-5 and the 9-3.

[Finding41]

You may want to look into a PVC upgrade before you fix your oil leak. Just that may fix it...
Check fixmysaab.com He has made a bunch of great tutorials for fixing your Saab.
Here is a link to some parts diagrams. (I saved the ones I need or think I may for future use. Handy!) Saab 9-5 Parts - Genuine and OEM Saab 9-5 Parts Catalog - Free Shipping
The prices are good at the saabsite.com too.
Good luck
Oh you may find the WIS free on line somewhere...

[rpiereck]

Shims for the rear camber can be made out of almuminum cans, just cut the can skin with the same shape as the factory shims. Shims can be stacked up.

[Mr. Fix-it]

Thanks a whole lot guys,

would someone please explain how to test the shocks and springs. I have always been under the impression that if you push down on the vehicle and it springs up and settles within 1 bounce that the shocks are good.

It seems that the world is a little different than I imagine.

[rpiereck]

The spring bounce method is a good test to show that a shock is completely blown, it is not accurate to show a failing shock. Shocks can wear out gradually and their performance will slowly degrade over time. Seals will start leaking and while the shock still operates in an acceptable way it is still failing and some time later it will be completely shot. It could be a hundred miles later, or ten thousand miles later. When the shocks are completely shot the car will bounce on the springs as there is no dampening action from the shocks. Then the car becomes unsafe. Do you want to take the chance of having the shock fail while on the highway?

To check for failing shocks look around the shock seal, where the shiny metal piston slides into the shock body, and look for any evidence of a leak. You might actually see fluid seeping or pooling on the seal, or you might see hints of humidity, like dust sticking to the area around the seal lips. Deteriorating seals, like dry rotted or broken are another indication of a failing seal. Check your shocks and replace them while they are still in failing mode. Waiting for them to be completely failed is just a liability you are taking with your vehicle, those inside it and around it.

[Mike Brennan]

You need to stay away from that guy. You car has less than 80000 miles. I can make anything move with a prybar. Any garage can remove the starter motor and install a oil sender in 30 minutes. Some can even do it with the starter in place, but it is a pain. Here is little more info for you: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=235492
And, by the way, if your rear tires are not cupping on the inside your rear end is ok.

[Mr. Fix-it]

You guys are GREAT. Thanks loads.

[Mr. Fix-it]

The guy I called and left message returned call around 5:00 PM. I asked same question. He said,"$80." I plan to go by and meet both guys, especially #2. I will also have him look at my shocks, springs and anything else I can think of.

Thanks again

Glen