Results 31 to 40 of 70
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04 September 2013 #31
Marty Jackson Saab Addict
- Join Date
- 17 May 2013
- Location
- London Ont. Canada
- Posts
- 641
- Saab(s)
- Sadly a Volvo XC90
Tim; Your attachments don't work. Can you re post? (What is this red thing?)
Edit:: about the cam... Check the oil level again. It takes a bunch to fill the lines cooler and turbo....
What do you mean the camshaft isn't touching the lifters? It will be off some of them some of the time.... The pointy end is the end that pushes on them.
You didn't take the cams out did you? You didn't have to for a head gasket repair. (Just take the sprockets off.) If you didn't install the cam shaft properly... If you had it off... I can't see this going wrong unless the cams were switched....?
Did you unplug any fuses?
What about the fuel lines the WIS says to un-do? Are they plugged in properly? (I didn't undo mine.)
Did you run the car the way the WIS said to idol it and pull ?# fuse...?
Maybe undo the neg battery cable to reset things....?
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04 September 2013 #32
- Join Date
- 18 Jul 2013
- Location
- USA
- Posts
- 55
- Saab(s)
- 2003 Saab 9-3 linear
no I didn't take cams out I know fuel is getting to fuel injector rail the first and second piston valves are not opening im not sure that would cause the problem im not an expert but they don't pop back up when the cam rolls off of them
notice the space between its like that for the first four on the intake side.. As for the red thing I mean this
I think I had one of those little red things on
not sure though.
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05 September 2013 #33
Marty Jackson Saab Addict
- Join Date
- 17 May 2013
- Location
- London Ont. Canada
- Posts
- 641
- Saab(s)
- Sadly a Volvo XC90
Did you check the oil? Is there enough? If it's too low to pump...It wont. Remember you have to fill an empty oil system. Not like a 4.5L oil change... I think what is needed is like6+L of oil. (Check this before you add that much oil!!!!)
Yes there should be a red thing there. Take another out and get one from an auto parts place. (Or the junk yard.)
I have no idea what that thing does that the red thing goes into.... Sorry.
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05 September 2013 #34
- Join Date
- 18 Jul 2013
- Location
- USA
- Posts
- 55
- Saab(s)
- 2003 Saab 9-3 linear
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05 September 2013 #35
Marty Jackson Saab Addict
- Join Date
- 17 May 2013
- Location
- London Ont. Canada
- Posts
- 641
- Saab(s)
- Sadly a Volvo XC90
Stop trying to start it you may have bent your valves!! Take the plugs out and check the top of the pistons.
I hope this isn't the case. That means new valves.... Etc....
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05 September 2013 #36
Frank Administrator
- Join Date
- 30 Jul 2010
- Location
- USA - Netherlands
- Posts
- 7,901
- Saab(s)
- previous: 2006 9-3, 2001-06 9-5, 2011 9-4X
For the 4-cylinder gas engine, it is 5.4 liters. http://saabworld.net/f144/saab-9-5-o...ication-27619/
4-cylinder
When servicing: 4.0 liters
Total capacity including filter and oil cooler: 5.4 liters
Difference in volume max-min: 1.0 liter
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05 September 2013 #37
- Join Date
- 18 Jul 2013
- Location
- USA
- Posts
- 55
- Saab(s)
- 2003 Saab 9-3 linear
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06 September 2013 #38
Marty Jackson Saab Addict
- Join Date
- 17 May 2013
- Location
- London Ont. Canada
- Posts
- 641
- Saab(s)
- Sadly a Volvo XC90
Look for any marks on the piston tops on the side that the lifters that aren't lifting. There should not be any marks(or new holes). The pistons should look the same as when you had the head off. I hope the ticking you heard wasn't the piston hitting the valves...
Did you set the timing marks on the cams before you took the head off?
Did you turn the cam shafts at any time while the head was off? Did you set the timing mars on the head and on the crank properly when you re-installed the head?
What did you set the head on when you took it off? (If it had the timing marks set the valves would all be recessed inside the "cup" of the combustion area in the head.
(I was looking at mine this afternoon and thinking about having it planed with the valves in. I noticed the furthest valves out are still recessed 1/8th" at least.) If your valves were sticking out of the head when you set it down you may have bent the valves.... If so... New valves (and probably valve guides for that cyl.) are in order.
When you cleaned the head did any stuff get into the valves? Did you clean out the intake and exhaust ports with compressed air? Did you plug the ports on the intake manifold while the motor was apart?
Did you oil all the cams during assembly?
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07 September 2013 #39
- Join Date
- 18 Jul 2013
- Location
- USA
- Posts
- 55
- Saab(s)
- 2003 Saab 9-3 linear
I put it on cardboard the marks where lined up when I took it off. I asked my sisters boyfriend to help clean it up and I think he used shop vac on the intake side. think that would damage it? Took it apart today, taking out timing chain tensioner that broke first turn not sure how I'm getting that out. Any ideas would be great
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07 September 2013 #40
Marty Jackson Saab Addict
- Join Date
- 17 May 2013
- Location
- London Ont. Canada
- Posts
- 641
- Saab(s)
- Sadly a Volvo XC90
You broke the timing chain tensioner... at the back of the block? The one with the hollow bolt, spring and the plastic bit. If so use a big socket and take the rest of it off. Or the plastic piece in the timing case?
Pictures????
If your future brother in law rolled the head onto something hard like a tool. It may have bent a valve.
Can you lift up on the affected lifters? With your fingers...
here is a photo of my head as it sits now. I have just cleaned the gasket material off and given it a quick wash with varsol. (NOTE: The timing mark is OFF on the exhaust side (front) I did not move this! Not knowingly anyway.)
Other pic. is my finger spinning the L intake lifter on #2 cyl.) The diagram is the lifters that I could spin on the head. (T= tight, L= loose) On the block the piston positions (T=top, D= Bottom).
I believe that when the engine is aligned to the timing marks it is at top dead center. This is the spot ware the ignition fires #1 cyl. (It actually fires a few degrees before.)
Head pic its the position of the cams across the head.
The pretty red thing is the timing chain adjuster. Note the two bolt heads. one small that hides the spring and plastic plunger that pushes the other plunger in to the chain. The big thing (21mm I think..) Is the body of the adjuster.
Yea, I have been cleaning and painting things while I wait for parts...
If you broke the yellowish plastic timing chain thing in the chain area you will need a kit. I could mail you my old one if your willing to pay postage.Last edited by Finding41; 07 September 2013 at 03:22.