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  1. #41
    Marty Jackson
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    Tim did you see any marks on the piston tops? If not...
    I would do a compression test now and see if the valves are working. The guage is about $20.

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  2. #42
    Marty Jackson
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    Tim I feel I need to clarify something about the lifters and there lifting.
    They are not pushed up all the time to touch the cam. I mean all the cam doesn't ride on them through it's full revolution.
    There probably (like mechanical lifters) a small gap that is left when the cam is not pushing on the lifter. This is normal.
    If the cam pushes down on the lifter and it stays down... That is not normal.
    This means there is something stopping the lifter from lifting. (The way I understand it is; The valve spring pulls the valve up and the top of the valve pushes the lifter up. There is hydrolic pressure thrown in here too. Oil pressure helps keep the lifter up as well as lubricated. (Not the only way its lifted.) If oil isn't getting to the lifter then it's going to stick.
    I hope this clarifies how much the lifter is lifted...

    Did you do a wet and dry compression test yet? That will tell you IF there is a valve problem or not.

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  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finding41 View Post
    Tim I feel I need to clarify something about the lifters and there lifting.
    They are not pushed up all the time to touch the cam. I mean all the cam doesn't ride on them through it's full revolution.
    There probably (like mechanical lifters) a small gap that is left when the cam is not pushing on the lifter. This is normal.
    If the cam pushes down on the lifter and it stays down... That is not normal.
    This means there is something stopping the lifter from lifting. (The way I understand it is; The valve spring pulls the valve up and the top of the valve pushes the lifter up. There is hydrolic pressure thrown in here too. Oil pressure helps keep the lifter up as well as lubricated. (Not the only way its lifted.) If oil isn't getting to the lifter then it's going to stick.
    I hope this clarifies how much the lifter is lifted...

    Did you do a wet and dry compression test yet? That will tell you IF there is a valve problem or not.

    no not yet that timing chain adjuster broke the part you have red completely snapped off from looking down spark holes I don't see marks but I think I need to get a better look so I'm removing head to check. I don't know if I can make that adjuster smaller from inside to take head off so I can work on removal of broken adjusted

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  4. #44
    Marty Jackson
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    How did you break that?. I used a 1 1/16" socket to remove that big red adjuster body.
    Before taking the head off I'd do a compression test. But if you can't get the broken adjuster out it will be easier on the bench.
    In another post I said it was in the block. That's wrong. Its in the head, lower timing chain area.

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  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finding41 View Post
    How did you break that?. I used a 1 1/16" socket to remove that big red adjuster body.
    Before taking the head off I'd do a compression test. But if you can't get the broken adjuster out it will be easier on the bench.
    In another post I said it was in the block. That's wrong. Its in the head, lower timing chain area.
    Put the 27 mm socket on and turned it and snap it was an easy turn leading me to believe it broke when put back in or that was the snapping sound I heard after I tried to turn it over other night I think it's fully extended though and I'm not sure I can remove it unless I find out how to shorten it or I have to break something to get it out

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  6. #46
    Marty Jackson
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    You should be able to unscrew the timing chain adjuster. It just pushes on the back of the left yellow thing. See pictures.
    The adjuster goes in the hole at the bottom of the first picture. The 2nd pic is ware it pushes on the yellow chain guide. 3rd pic is the two guides. The left one is the adjustment one. The last pic is a pencil pointing at the part of the adjuster you have to push on to get the plunger back in. Closest to the little gap. The spring piece that goes in the hollow bolt should be out to install the piece. I think that is after the chain is installed and everything (timing) is all lined up.
    Attached Images Attached Images     

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  7. #47
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    yeah mine was all messed up and I couldn't push it in I sacrificed the plastic guide to get it out. Name:  IMG_1400.jpg
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Size:  26.7 KB all four hit the valves im not exactly sure how all the intake side hit but not exhaust side

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  8. #48
    Marty Jackson
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    Ouch!
    The intake timing wasn't set properly for the valves to hit the pistons.
    Your valves are done for sure. You may want to take the head to someone to fix....If it can be fixed. The valve guides are probably done too.
    Pistons....? Connecting rods....?
    You may be looking at a new/used motor. That may be the easiest and cheapest way to get the car on the road again... Or get a used head and hope the bottom end isn't wrecked. There is a dye product you can use to check if the pistons have cracked.

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  9. #49
    Marty Jackson
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    Here are some ideas; How to:SeriousSAAB procedures archive: overhauling the 4 cylinder B2x5 cylinder head
    Parts:
    55560663 Aftermarket - Intake Valve - Intervalves 9185851 - Free Shipping
    Inlet valve B205/235 [55560663 / 9185851 U4-3] - €17.50 : Saabpartners.com!, Everything for Saab
    Speedparts Sweden - Valve / Inlet

    Used head: Saab 9 5 2 3L Engine Head Fit 1999 2002 99 00 01 02 Bolck | eBay

    I would get a used engine. I would start by cursing Craigslist for anything SAAB or 2.3L. You may find a whole other car for $500. (I did. And I'm changing he head gasket on it now.) I found my 04 Arc wagon $500 on Kijiji here in Canada. It is owned by Ebay and I think it is called Ebay classifieds in the US.
    Good luck. I hope this works out well for you.

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  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finding41 View Post
    Here are some ideas; How to:SeriousSAAB procedures archive: overhauling the 4 cylinder B2x5 cylinder head
    Parts:
    55560663 Aftermarket - Intake Valve - Intervalves 9185851 - Free Shipping
    Inlet valve B205/235 [55560663 / 9185851 U4-3] - €17.50 : Saabpartners.com!, Everything for Saab
    Speedparts Sweden - Valve / Inlet

    Used head: Saab 9 5 2 3L Engine Head Fit 1999 2002 99 00 01 02 Bolck | eBay

    I would get a used engine. I would start by cursing Craigslist for anything SAAB or 2.3L. You may find a whole other car for $500. (I did. And I'm changing he head gasket on it now.) I found my 04 Arc wagon $500 on Kijiji here in Canada. It is owned by Ebay and I think it is called Ebay classifieds in the US.
    Good luck. I hope this works out well for you.
    Thank you for all your research and time you have put into this to help me!

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