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  1. #11
    Saab Fan
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    08 Jul 2013
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    Georgia
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    28
    Saab(s)
    2002 9-5 2.3L Linear Turbo
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    I forgot to mention that I went ahead and changed the drive/serpentine belt while I had it all taken apart. Not sure when it was last changed, and figured for less than $20, why not!?

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  2. #12
    Marty Jackson
    Saab Addict Finding41's Avatar
    Join Date
    17 May 2013
    Location
    London Ont. Canada
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    641
    Saab(s)
    Sadly a Volvo XC90
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    Congratulations!
    I did it a bit differently. My serpentine belt tensioner, idler pulley and alternator all cane out as one. I couldn't get at the top hex bolt of the alternator. So it stayed together.
    I'm going to leave it alone and replace the whole thing in one shot too.
    Pictures are the whole assembly. Including the 3mm Allen key in the hole that took 45 min to find...
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  3. #13
    Saab Fan
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    08 Jul 2013
    Location
    Georgia
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    28
    Saab(s)
    2002 9-5 2.3L Linear Turbo
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    That's not a bad idea, 41. The fourth bolt (hidden) that is on the bracket is probably easier to remove than the dreaded upper hex bolt. Did you have difficulty getting that whole, connected unit out from the top? Space is limited, and I needed to do plenty of wiggling and pulling in order to get just the alternator out.

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  4. #14
    Marty Jackson
    Saab Addict Finding41's Avatar
    Join Date
    17 May 2013
    Location
    London Ont. Canada
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    641
    Saab(s)
    Sadly a Volvo XC90
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    I can't remember if I had the intake off or not... (I know I had grease up to my elbows.) I didn't follow the WIS to a T. I left the intake in the car. For some reason that seemed easier... At the time anyway.
    I think it would come out easily with the intake left on if the motor mounts are removed/ loosened. Ie; Remove the one below the fuse box and going from the trans to the front of the car. Just undo the top nut on the one at the back. This is assuming the one on the top right is off already.
    That will allow you to jack up the motor/trans and move them to the left a few inches.
    Picture is the block and intake still in the car.
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  5. #15

    Join Date
    17 Sep 2013
    Location
    vashon island WA
    Posts
    2
    Saab(s)
    1999 9-5 arc 2010 9-3ss
    Thumbs Up:   0
    Honestly, you got off fairly cheap, and it's good to have a fresh alternator. Glad it worked out. How many miles on your Swedish Sled? Others here might help you predict other potential weak points: sludge comes to mind, and fuel pump (not a weak point, but has a finite life).

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  6. #16
    Saab Enthusiast 900Aero's Avatar
    Join Date
    27 Jan 2012
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    92
    Saab(s)
    900 Turbo, 9-3 SE, 9-5 Aero
    Thumbs Up:   1
    Quote Originally Posted by Finding41 View Post
    Congratulations!
    I did it a bit differently. My serpentine belt tensioner, idler pulley and alternator all cane out as one. I couldn't get at the top hex bolt of the alternator. So it stayed together.
    I'm going to leave it alone and replace the whole thing in one shot too.
    Pictures are the whole assembly. Including the 3mm Allen key in the hole that took 45 min to find...
    How many bolts hold that on?? Could you give a bit more detail? I fear I will be doing this soon as my 03 Aero with 115K has the original alternator.

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  7. #17
    Marty Jackson
    Saab Addict Finding41's Avatar
    Join Date
    17 May 2013
    Location
    London Ont. Canada
    Posts
    641
    Saab(s)
    Sadly a Volvo XC90
    Thumbs Up:   1
    Well this is allot of fun!
    Lock the tensioner in the no tension spot with a 3mm allen key. (Have fun with this! Watch you fingers......) I broke my tensioner half inch extension reciever. Don`t do that! Very bad.
    First there are 5 bolts. 3 long, 1 med, 1 short. You`ll see.
    The easiest bolts are the two right at the tensioner top. there is one directly below that as well. (all long )
    Next is a bolt that goes form the drive shaft housing into the timing chain cover. (med)
    Here is ware the fun begins..... Ready...
    Remove the Neg on the battery. Remove the bolt holding the oil fill neck to the manifold. (10mm) Jack the car up and put it on stands...
    Get underneath and try to get comfy... Remove the intake manifold brace. (2 13mm), remove the cables to the alternator, (1 12mm, 1 7mm),
    remove the hoses to the PVC tank at the tank, (squeeze the white bits and pull hard) remove the PVC tank, (2 13mm)
    clean around the oil fill check tube well! pop the oil fill neck out, (I did this from underneath with a flat screwdriver and tapped it with a hammer.)

    Now you can get to the last bolt! It`s the shortest bolt and requires a 13mm wrench. It is wedged between the alternator and the block. Not allot of room!
    Once you have the small one out you can remove the Allen bolt at the bottom of the alternator and the whole assembly will pull strait up. (check this. it may need to go back and up at he same time...)
    You will need to undo the front transmission mount and shift the motor to the front a bit.

    Use the WIS for this project. I may have missed a few things.
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