White smoke pouring out of the exhaust

[ScientificHeart]

I would do a compression test but the problem is that I live in a neighborhood with neighbors everywhere. If I even start my engine, the white smoke covers the town in about two minutes flat. It's a very toxic smell, and I am already not even supposed to be doing any vehicle repair in our parking lot, and I am. So I don't want to push my luck. It's really bad. Also, I found the same black sut leaking from the turbo as I have in the exhaust. Same, like black wet paint. There is oil on both sides of the turbo. In the exhaust part and the compresser part. So if it were the rings, would the turbo have oil like this? If it were a head gasket, would the turbo have oil like this? Thank You for these responses. I Feel like I might have a chance now. Lol

[ScientificHeart]

This it the compressor side of the turbo. I can not for the life of me get the exhaust housing off. Did You have trouble with this? This is crazy. I think there is just so much carbon build-up like You said?

[Finding41]

I would do a compression test but the problem is that I live in a neighborhood with neighbors everywhere. If I even start my engine, the white smoke covers the town in about two minutes flat. It's a very toxic smell, and I am already not even supposed to be doing any vehicle repair in our parking lot, and I am. So I don't want to push my luck. It's really bad. Also, I found the same black sut leaking from the turbo as I have in the exhaust. Same, like black wet paint. There is oil on both sides of the turbo. In the exhaust part and the compresser part. So if it were the rings, would the turbo have oil like this? If it were a head gasket, would the turbo have oil like this? Thank You for these responses. I Feel like I might have a chance now. Lol

Yes.
Oil can only get in there a few ways; Head gasket, Rings, Piston all will put oil out through the exhaust valves into the turbo on the exhaust side. Or the turbo is leaking so much into both the compressor and exhaust sides.. (Unlikely both at the same time.)
How much side to side play is there in the turbo? Have the fins been rubbing on the outsides?

If (like in my case) there is a busted piston oil will be pushed through the PVC system into the turbo. Watch this: 04 9-5 SAAB ARC puffing smoke from oil fill - YouTube
My car wasn't blowing smoke out the tailpipe though. I may not have driven it enough to get the amount of oil in there that you have though. (But my pistons looked great from the top when I took the head off and replaced the head gasket. And things looked good from underneath when I dropped the sump... My problem was a cracked piston with a broken middle ring.)
Take a look and see if you can tell what piston is bad in the pictures. I couldn't tell.... until I got it all back together! 4+hrs then 1.5 to remove the head again. 1 hr for the sump and piston removal.... You don't want to make this mistake!

A compression test is done without the car running. Simply remove the spark plugs and test one cylinder at a time. Let the engine turn over 3 times each test. Then put 1/2 oz of oil in the spark plug hole and test each again. Only do the oil/ wet test one at a time.
The neighbours will never know.
The blown piston is on the left in the pic. of the 4 of them together. Last pic in the bunch as well. Looks good eh.

[ScientificHeart]

Both pictures are from the compressor side housing of the turbo. The part facing inward to the impellor... it looks as if there is some RUB or BURN marks along the place where it spins. It is not oil alone, because it is almost like it is burned within the metal rim, specifically where it spins. There is no evidence of any marks on the impellor itself, (the turbine part that has the blades on the compressor side). That is the impellor, right? Anyway. Not sure if these rub or burn marks are normal...
-Also, when I pull up on the turbine/impellor/blade thingy, it has a bit of a lift to it. Should I be able to move it upward like this??
-Also, on the outside of the compressor side housing, along the rim where the cobra attaches to, there is quite a bit of oil build-up. This is the area where I was able to twist the cobra back and forth before the turbo was removed. I am not sure if this is normal.
-Also... outside of the housing of the exhaust side of the turbo, is a lever that controls a little disc plate inside the exhaust housing. It looks like it control some sort of flow or whatever not. But... the lever is really wiggly. I am able to move it back and forth as it is designed to do, but also is able to be moved from side to side, which makes for a very loose seal? When I move the lever up and down as it is designed to do, the disc plate inside HITS against the inner wall of the housing itself, as well as a liytle on the outer lip rim of the housing, where the vehicle exhaust fits on it.. My question is: should this lever have so much mobility?

[Finding41]

Don't worry about the exhaust dump valve. It's supposed to be kind of loose. It's controlled by vacuum that moves the arm you had to take off. (Small E clip)
The impeller/compressor should not move in or out up or down.
I don't think the impeller would show ware but the body of the compressor (snail shape thing) should be a smooth transition with no ridges.
I hope you are lucky enough that the turbo is the problem.
Ware the cobra meets the turbo it should be tight. Ie; No wiggle or sliding back and forth.
To get the exhaust side off... Look at the video you linked to. He used a hammer... I used a hammer.
I'm not saying you should use a hammer as you can wreck the fins on the exhaust impeller. (It has to come off strait.)
If you are getting the turbo cartridge... It doesn't matter so much. If you are getting the rebuild kit... It matters allot!
Check Ebay for the whole turbo. You may be surprised. (I just found a complete turbo for my car for $ 260.96! That's worth it! link:Saab 9 5 Aero TD04HL 15T turbocharger Turbo Charger | eBay

"Also, on the outside of the compressor side housing, along the rim where the cobra attaches to, there is quite a bit of oil build-up." Of course there will be. The blow off on the big black tube goes right back into the cobra creating an endless loop...
If there is oil coming from the PCV hose connected to the top of the cobra that would suggest a PVC problem or a pressurized crank case. (Like mine was.)
Mine was pumping oil out the oil fill neck and out the PVC hose into the cobra. My turbo wasn't that bad... bad enough but not a gusher.
If there is no sign of oil from the PCV hose at the top of the cobra that is good.

[ScientificHeart]

You know what's really interesting about that video? My engine did that before too. Fortunately, it was only for a day or two because when I put the sludge cleaner in the FIRST time... it made all that ticking vanish. I'm sorry Yours wasn't such an easy fix. That definitely is quite a bummer about all the work You did just to have to open her back up again. But You fixed it in the end, yeah? So it was worth it. SHE is worth it
Besides... I bet You'll never make that mistake again. I am sure You learned something valuable from it. Now You can share it with us
-No, there is no evidence that the fins have touched the inside of the housing. Fins look good. Just stained with oil on the compressor side. I can't get a look at the turbine in the exhaust because it's so very stuck together at the center, it just won't budge. Lots of carbon build up with added heat. Maybe the exhaust catalytic converter or some part of the exhaust, maybe part of the turbo in the exhaust... isn't working so well. Maybe due to that, the heat went and stayed around the exhaust side of the turbo and sealed it tight. Maybe that same heat is what possibly warped the little disc plate door inside the exhaust side housing. I was never able to crack the bolt of the metal pipe at the center of the turbo, so I had to pull the bolt from the engine on the other end of the pipe and bring them inside my house as one unit. It is so very very stuck on. Almost seal from oil and heat and carbon. What do You think of that theory? If it's controlled by a vacuum, ummm... I have had NO PCV breather hose, valves, etc, for months. Nothing. AND... the oil sludge clog that I had. All three of those put together?
-and... I did post pics of the housing so other than the burn/rub marks, not a scratch. In fact, no scratches at all. Just stained/burned around the way inside rim. Not where the impellor spins.

[ScientificHeart]

Oh no... there WAS oil coming from that metal hose that bolts to the head of the cobra. Absolutely.

[Finding41]

Here is ware my carbon build up was: On the end of the shaft exhaust side. Inside that tin cup in in exhaust side beside impeller.

[Finding41]

Oh no... there WAS oil coming from that metal hose that bolts to the head of the cobra. Absolutely.

DO a compression test! Dry then wet.

That metal hose is one way for the crank case to vent off the gasses that build up in it. I think the gasses are supposed to gets sucked out. Not oil. (This may have something to do with overfilling the oil... Hopefully.)
The other way is from the valve cover. The gasses are supposed to get sucked into the throttle body via that small hose... (I think...) The big hose is there also to vent the valve cover to the PVC tank. (I think..)

Did I mention a dry then wet compression test should probably be done? This is the only way to rule out the possibility of rings or a piston being the problem!

In the picture below there is a snap ring or "C clip" that has to be removed to get into the turbo if you are rebuilding it. Wear safety glasses! Gloves are a good idea too. I had to modify a pair of needle nose pliers to get this off! Hit each tab in with a hammer and punch before you attempt removal. Take a picture of this as it has to go back on the same way.

[ScientificHeart]

Ok. I'm going to look into the compression test. For sure. Right after I clean the kitchen up or my children are going to have oil in their breakfast. Thank You for everything. You're Wonderful.