Help! Wet engine - No power

[Laarry]

I acquired a 2003 Saab 9-5 ARC (3.0 6-cyl) a few days ago, with 144K miles, in VERY GOOD condition.
I had it looked over at a local Saab/Volvo shop, with a good report.
I've driven it daily for 3 days without incident.
Very nice, smooth, quiet performance and strong acceleration.


Today, as part of detailing it, I degreased the engine compartment, when cool,
as I've done dozens of times before on a variety of vehicles.
Afterward, I started it up, and it ran a bit rough - not unexpected with it still being somewhat wet.
After running and revving it mildly for a few minutes, it seemed to dry out sufficiently, and idled much more smoothly.

After an hour or so, after some more detailing, I went to take it for a drive.
When putting it in gear (automatic transmission), the idle speed was very rough.
When accelerating, it lacked power, and could barely manage a crawl.
Trying to go up a relatively steep uphill grade was impossible.

I tried to get it to dry out further, over the course of a few hours, with no sign of improvement.
It was a warm breezy sunny day.
Also, the check engine light has come on (not during the initial revving, but after the attempt to drive it).
In addition, when in neutral/park, the engine (below 1000 RPM) runs rough, yet from 1000 rpm and above, is very smooth.

Though I didn't use any high pressure spraying, I assume water has gotten somewhere it doesn't belong, and remains.

From what I've described, can anyone suggest where specifically the problem might be,
and what are the next steps I should take?

[Mike Brennan]

I would first remove the coils on top of the spark plugs and dry them and the holes as a first step.

[Finding41]

I'd do what Mike says.
I used to have Honda Civics. 73,76,81,84. These cars were allergic to wet. If it rained they ran rough. I had the great idea of washing the engine of one of them and it didn't run for over a day.
Then I met WD40.... I is made for Water Displacement. I started carrying a big can of WD in the car all the time. If It got wet I would spray the cap and wires and wait about 5 min. and take of like nothing had happened.
The problem wit WD40 is it's messy! Slippery, attracts dirt, generally a mess to work with any part of the engine after you have used it. Oh it also helps some rubber parts fall apart more quickly.
I would only use it now to determine ware the problem is. And I'm not so sure I'd know ware to start spraying it on my 9-5s.

[Laarry]

Hi Mike and Marty,

Thanks for your helpful replies!

I wonder if I may have entered "Limp Home Mode"


It sounds like - even if things have dried out sufficiently - this mode would be maintained until "reset" at a shop/dealer.
(which might explain why I can drive it, but it lacks sufficient power to get me up my hill)

Anyone have any experience with this?

Oh, another dumb question from a newbie - Where are the sparkplugs on the 3.0-6cyl ?? I can't see them!

[Finding41]

Go to youtube and type in "reset limp home mode saab". I've seen it there.
Fixed.

[nordwulf]

This info may help: http://saabworld.net/f29/limp-home-r...b-9-5-a-27538/

The spark plugs are under the ignition discharge modules on top of the cylinder heads. Remove those and you'll have access to the spark plugs.

[Laarry]

Thanks for all the help - This forum is a Godsend - If only we had the interwebs when I owned my '74 99

I should have provided an update earlier...

I ended it up getting it towed to the shop. It turned out one of the SDI cassettes was ruined - either by the wet - or my persistent attempts to "drive" out the moisture.

Several hundred dollar$ later, it is running well. However, now I get a check-engine light, which is apparently indicating a bad catalytic convertor.
Mechanic says it may have been caused by un-ignited fuel getting into the CatConv, and eventually burning - or possibly some residual contamination which may clear over time/driving.

I cleared the code a few times, but it returns rather consistently.

Questions for the expert enthusiasts listening:

Does it seem plausible that it may clear over time - or is a replacement inevitable? (i now have ~300 miles since the DI replacement)

Would one of the O2 sensors possibly generate the same code? It there any way to differentiate?

Is a CatConv replacement a DIY job? (I know- it's impossible to tell, not knowing the skill & equip level of the individual, except for the fact that THIS one hosed his engine and ruined his DI cassette ;-)

Anything else to try before springing for the CatConv replacement?

I'm thinking I might put off the replacement, but worry that something else would go un-noticed if the Check-Engine light remains on.
Would a cheap code reader suffice to alert me of "new" codes show up (assuming I ignore the code for the CC)?


Thanks again!

[Mike Brennan]

You need to tell us the code number. I doubt it wrecked the cat in that short of time. Your tech is just guessing and cats aint cheap. Several hundred dollars is a lot for one plug coil considering how easy it is to diagnose. I would look for another tech.

[stevenbay1]

disconnect the neg battery cable for 15 min ,that will clear the codes and reset the PCM,