Results 1 to 8 of 8
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29 September 2014 #1
- Join Date
- 28 Jan 2011
- Location
- SE Washington
- Posts
- 32
- Saab(s)
- 1997 900SE, 2003 9-5 Linear
9-5 Oil Leak and Smells!
2003 9-5 Linear, OK - dropped the pan and checked for gunk, clean and replaced - and had an oil leak. Thought perhaps I gummed up the gasket sealer refitting the pan. So I pulled the pan a second time - re-cleaned things, more sealant, careful refitting - still have a small leak. Leaks just enough to allow a drip to hit the catalytic converter, burn and smell. I did notice that some of the holes for the pan bolts go clear through into the block cavity - do these require anything special to seal? I can wipe things clean and it won't smell for a week or so, but things are wet. Doesn't appear to be leaking from above - and I replaced the oil pressure sensor as this was pointed out as a possibility. Car has 160K+, still runs good.
Any ideas where the problem lies??
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29 September 2014 #2
- Join Date
- 22 Apr 2013
- Location
- Tromsø, 69° 41' N
- Posts
- 464
- Saab(s)
- 2009 9-3 2.0T SC Aero XWD\eLSD. eSID2
Assuming there was no leaks prior to the "gunk check", would I think the leak is between the pan and engine. Three steps from the WIS, regarding fitting the sump (pan):
- "Ensure the oil sump contains no dirt or contaminants. Clean the sealing surfaces on the engine and sump with a gasket scraper and benzene."
- "Apply an even, 2 mm thick bead of flange sealant, part no. 93 21 795, to the sealing surfaces of the oil sump."
- "Tightening torque 22 Nm (16 lbf ft)."
Nothing about special attention to the holes for the pan bolts.
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29 September 2014 #3
Frank Administrator
- Join Date
- 30 Jul 2010
- Location
- USA - Netherlands
- Posts
- 7,901
- Saab(s)
- previous: 2006 9-3, 2001-06 9-5, 2011 9-4X
What kind of sealant are you using? Only anerobic sealant should be used.
And make sure to cover the inside of the bolt holes but that's probably obvious.
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30 September 2014 #4
- Join Date
- 28 Jan 2011
- Location
- SE Washington
- Posts
- 32
- Saab(s)
- 1997 900SE, 2003 9-5 Linear
Used Permatex #51813, anerobic sealant. I put circle around all the bolt holes - used a bit heavier bead second time around. Of course you can't get a torque wrench on a couple of the bolts - but can get a wrench on them & feel they are snugged about right. Thanks.
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03 October 2014 #5
Marty Jackson Saab Addict
- Join Date
- 17 May 2013
- Location
- London Ont. Canada
- Posts
- 641
- Saab(s)
- Sadly a Volvo XC90
It may be leaking form a different spot.
Both of my cars are leaking now. I didn't touch the one. I rebuilt the other...
I will look closer when I have time. Spring... Maybe.
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02 March 2016 #6
- Join Date
- 28 Jan 2011
- Location
- SE Washington
- Posts
- 32
- Saab(s)
- 1997 900SE, 2003 9-5 Linear
Wow - it's been 18 months since I started this post! I am still living with the problem because I don't drive the car much - still only 166k miles. Finally bought UV dye and a light, jacked car up and let it run. After about 20 minutes it was clear where the leak was - looks like the rear seal, not easy to repair. At about the time of the pan drop, I also did PCV mod, new sub-frame bushes, new front seal. I checked the PCV valve, valve cover to throttle body - valve not working as it was allowing air back the wrong way! Installed a new valve yesterday, keeping my fingers crossed as now I have to drive to work!
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24 May 2016 #7
Marty Jackson Saab Addict
- Join Date
- 17 May 2013
- Location
- London Ont. Canada
- Posts
- 641
- Saab(s)
- Sadly a Volvo XC90
I still have a oil leak too. I swapped the oil pressure thing yesterday and washed the engine. It needs it again.... Hopefully I have it.
Any luck trwilson70?
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25 July 2016 #8
- Join Date
- 28 Jan 2011
- Location
- SE Washington
- Posts
- 32
- Saab(s)
- 1997 900SE, 2003 9-5 Linear
Leak has decreased, but I'm just living with the problem. I notice if I drive carefully, don't get into the boost much, it doesn't leak. I am hoping the the seal will re-shape after a bit and seal better - wishful thinking.