Replaced cabin blower on 9-3SC today

[MI-Roger]

An internet search will yield videos and photo sets for this job but they all seemed to leave off a couple descriptions for the necessary steps.

1. Buy a set of ball end Torx bits. This job requires both the T15 and T20 sizes. Clearance is VERY tight against the floorboard/firewall and the ball heads will be a huge advantage.
2. Interior pieces which need to be removed are: Right side dash board cover against passenger door, snaps on with no screws; Glove box, five T20 screws; Console side panel in passenger foot well, one T20 screw; Plastic panel which encloses the top side of the passenger side foot well, one T20 screwed into console side of dash and one T20 screwed into bottom side of fan motor housing(?); Plastic HVAC duct wrapping around behind blower fan motor, one T15(?) screwed into side of blower motor housing and end of duct pulls off from main HVAC box in center of dash.
3. There are seven T15 screws securing the blower fan motor and lower housing to the top half of housing which is not removed. Buy your new blower fan and motor assembly before starting this job and you will see the locations of all seven screws.
4. Don't be cheap when buying the fan. Valeo makes this part for Saab. A Saab branded part will be almost $425 at current pricing, a Valeo branded part will be just a bit over $200, the Off Brands will be around $170. These are the prices for the ACC unit fans, the MCC unit fans are less expensive for no good reason but aren't interchangeable. I bought an Off Brand, the unit had effectively zero markings when I took it out of the box and this generic unit did not fit quite right. It is secured and operational but not a perfect fit. I now suspect the generic labeled Off Brand units may be factory seconds. Next time, if there is a next time, I will buy the OEM Valeo fan.
5. Plan on 3 hours for this job worst case, although it may be possible in just over one hour with a branded fan and with luck on your side.

[simpleaz]

Nice details. I took mine apart to oil the shaft so the rust would let the motor spin freely. It had stopped and I read some about the water coming in thru the pollen cabin filter area. This fixed mine.

To make this a less than one hour job, get one of these flexible tor bit extensions for about $12 bucks at home depot or other hardware place. eazypower 1-Pack 11in. 1/4in. HEX Consumer Flex A Bit-73609 at The Home Depot

works wonders on getting the 7 screws off the motor housing body. I had it off and fixed under one hour.

Today I went to a carwash since fixing about 3 weeks ago and although I resealed the weathering stripping around the cabin filter housing, I still had some water come thru the passage way so I suspect I will have to re-oil the motor or replace the motor soon. Fingers crossed.

Thanks!

[MI-Roger]

An independent Saab Tech told me how to correct this problem that he sees a lot down in Florida. He removes the white plastic filter housing from the engine compartment side (the two toggle clamps need to be uncliped first), scrapes off all the adhesive foam gasket, then uses 3M Window Weld as the new gasket. I haven't looked up this product yet but since he gave diameter and length I assume it is a sticky rope gasket rather than bead size. IIRC he stated 3/8 inch by 15 feet.

He says this lasts far longer than the Saab foam gasket.

[simpleaz]

Thanks. I used 'the right stuff'. It is a automotive gasket maker the pros use. I had some in my toolbox. Similar idea. I think I have another leak since I had some water from the car wash. I am in Arizona so rarely have eater issues.

[colombo]

I made a little photo album when I did the blower replacement, feel free to have a look.