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  1. #1

    Join Date
    14 Jun 2015
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    United States
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    1
    Saab(s)
    2004 9-3 Sedan

    Parasitic Battery Drain

    I have a 2004 9-3 Sedan that has a parasitic battery drain. Unfortunately this is something familiar to me as approx 18 months ago I had a parasitic battery drain (330mA) that I eventually discovered to be the underseat amp. I bought a used amp on E-Bay and it fixed the problem. I know that, with the car turned off, a healthy system current draw should be approx 10mA.

    This new battery drain is a whopping 2.2 amps. I discovered that if I remove Fuse 30 in the engine bay fuse box (one of those maxi fuses...see attached picture) the drain is removed. I think this is related to the infotainment system but need some guidance where to go next from this maxi fuse. Just to be on the safe side, I unplugged the underseat amp and this did not fix the problem.

    Help really appreciated,

    Welshie
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  2. #2
    harry
    Saab Enthusiast SatchSportSedan's Avatar
    Join Date
    31 Jul 2012
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    52
    Saab(s)
    9-3 Sport Sedan B207E 150Hp
    Hello Welshie,
    so how did it went further with your battery drain???
    How did you measure this for sure?
    Amp-meter should be between battery (+)terminal -> to the battery (+)pole.
    I'd also put a charger or Constant Voltage power supply, to avoid fals current readings, while battery voltage drops (due to discharge).
    I know these Saabs are difficult, because after Ignition key has been removed, one needs to wait, that all systems go to Standby.
    It can take a few minutes!
    If the problem strted after your fiddling with that underseat amp, than the problem will be there somewhere.
    Does make contact with chassis, so proper grounded? Otherwise ground currents can get pulled via the audio cinch ground connections.
    You can also, place Amp-meter instead of a fuse, just to monitor that specific circuit part.

    Hope to hear some further feedback from you, Harry.
    Everything is simple ,regarding time spend

  3. #3

    Join Date
    12 Aug 2015
    Location
    Corpus Christi, TX United States
    Posts
    1
    Saab(s)
    1988 900 Turbo, 2004 9-3
    I'm new...so If I should post elsewhere I figure someone will point that out.
    I have a parasitic battery drain in my 2004 SAAB 9-3 also. Battery drains over 3-4 days (intermittent fault...sometimes it doesnt) and the battery does recharge and check good at the auto parts store...so I suspect something else. I cannot find it but came across something quite interesting. The entire fuse box is powered 24/7, though the accessories that draw from the fuse circuits don't appear to be "active". Does SAAB do something odd with their electrical engineering? e.g. does the fuseblock stay hot (12Volts all the time even after time-out and days of sitting) and the controls all run through an interrupted ground somewhere else?
    I have an amp draw meter an will check the static draw (in the past it was 300 milli amps when I checked...but that won't drain a battery in 3-4 days)
    I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed but have been doing all my own maintenance (successfully) for 30+ years and this seems at odds with my shade tree mechanic limited knowledge of electrical engineering but it might work. My '88 900 seems to have a standard electrical system (e.g. the fuse block only has a few hot circuits for those things that will work with the key off.
    I bought it used 3 months ago and its been a very troublesome car despite low miles.Likely a different problem, but, Check engine light stays on, car runs rough even though coils have been replaced. OBDII says cam position sensor and knock sensor faults - from my readings this car had neither of those things as separate entities in the car. Roughness smooths out after it warms up.
    I'll check that Fuse #30 and see if removing it has any effect (What does #30 supply?).

    I'm currently in the Navy and have to do my maintenance in the BOQ parking lot or Auto Hobby shop until my household goods arrive...so this is a vexing issue

    Help

    Over

  4. #4
    Saab Fan
    Join Date
    14 Jun 2015
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    5
    Saab(s)
    1999 9-5 Wagon; 2001 9-5 Aero ;2007 9-5 Aero
    I have the Saab WIS and cant find fuse 30 for a Saab 9-3 2004....are you sure that is the fuse?#

    300mA is probably 30x higher than it should be and would take 30AH away from a 70AH battery ...more than enough to prevent it cranking after 3/4 days.

    The draw after all the modules go to sleep should be about 10mA ..the only way to pinpoint the problem is to identify the circuit either by measuring voltage drop across the fuses or monitoring the current and pulling fuses.

    When I has issues with my 9-5 I fitted an isolation switch on the -Ve side with an ammeter (20A) in series...even so I blew a few fuses in the meter a few times by opening doors and such at the wrong time.

    On the 9-5 it took up to 30mins before everything shutdown so you need some patience and luck to pinpoint the problem.

    Measuring voltage drop across the fuses is probably the easiest for trouble shooting and is a quick way of identifying circuits downstream that are active and drawing power.

  5. #5
    harry
    Saab Enthusiast SatchSportSedan's Avatar
    Join Date
    31 Jul 2012
    Location
    Belgium
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    52
    Saab(s)
    9-3 Sport Sedan B207E 150Hp
    Hello, concerning your battery drain issues:
    I don't know how technically inclined you guys are?
    I am electronics engineer, and indeed those SAABs seem to be hunger for after ignition contact drain currents.
    If you're sure about the 0.3Amp draw -that it is correctly measured, with a correct instrument- the calculations is <more-or-less> simple:
    Q=I * t so the Amount of energy in Amps/hour [Ah] equals the current (Amps) * time (in Hours).
    So a 3day interval would take 72hours => at 0.3Amp gives 21.6Ah. So 1/3th of a 60Ah standard battery.

    On the remark that many fused circuits remain Hot, it is like in your Household.
    One (or more) big wire , from main battery (+) connection, goes to the several circuits, individual fused.
    As to separate Loading,etc...
    -- - -
    I'd recommend: one good know autoranging multimeter [from 20mA=0.02A range to 20Amps range]
    * avoid cranking, because your multimeter will melt ;-) Or bypass it with a metal bar, before cranking.

    And, what does the battery voltage do unLoaded & loaded? What is its charging voltage?
    How Low does it go, when cranking? You need a Min-Max Logging multimeter, like Flukes' do.
    It is normal to drop until some 10Volts or so, while cranking.

    But a discharged battery should never go under 10.5Volts unloaded.

    Does the car take 0.3Amps during the entire 3-to-4 days battery drain periode???

    I've read stories about the battery (-) negative terminal, to chassis coming loose.
    This could re-start all modules initial time-out,etc...
    This ground connection should sit beneath the battery plastic holder.

    Keep us informed, Harry.
    Everything is simple ,regarding time spend

  6. #6
    Saab Fan
    Join Date
    14 Jun 2015
    Location
    uk
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    5
    Saab(s)
    1999 9-5 Wagon; 2001 9-5 Aero ;2007 9-5 Aero
    With luck it will be one of the common battery drain reasons.........amp staying on/boot light/glove box light/footwell light etc...

    My drain calculation above was based on 4days ie approx 30A and more than enough to prevent the car cranking.

    In my case it was my ECU(which was caused by a bad remap) and the circuit for one of the valves was set active at all times.

  7. #7
    Malik

    Join Date
    27 May 2016
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    3
    Saab(s)
    SAAB 9-3 ARC
    So what did you do to fix?

  8. #8

    Join Date
    12 Jan 2019
    Location
    prestatyn
    Posts
    1
    Saab(s)
    2007 9-3 linear sport estate
    I also have a drain. The car will discharge after being left for approx 2-3 days. The mechanic i took it to told me that when he pulled the fuse for the CIM at the end of the dashboard, the amp drain went right down. Could the CIM it's self be the cause of the drain or is it something else staying active that runs through the CIM?

  9. #9
    Saab Owner Digger's Avatar
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    28 Oct 2016
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    Minneapolis Minnesota
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    1,136
    Saab(s)
    2006 9-3 2.0t SportCombi
    Quote Originally Posted by mark1977 View Post
    I also have a drain. The car will discharge after being left for approx 2-3 days. The mechanic i took it to told me that when he pulled the fuse for the CIM at the end of the dashboard, the amp drain went right down. Could the CIM it's self be the cause of the drain or is it something else staying active that runs through the CIM?
    Answer to your questions are Yes & Yes and though the CIM could be the problem, I would check for a sticky push button contact at the bottom of the big dirt collecting key fob hole first.

  10. #10
    harry
    Saab Enthusiast SatchSportSedan's Avatar
    Join Date
    31 Jul 2012
    Location
    Belgium
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    Saab(s)
    9-3 Sport Sedan B207E 150Hp

    Lightbulb Saab 9-3 Batt drain because system does go in StandBy

    Quote Originally Posted by mark1977 View Post
    I also have a drain. The car will discharge after being left for approx 2-3 days. The mechanic i took it to told me that when he pulled the fuse for the CIM at the end of the dashboard, the amp drain went right down. Could the CIM it's self be the cause of the drain or is it something else staying active that runs through the CIM?
    Hi guys (& Ladies),
    I just recently came to change my ISM, Ignition Switch Module,
    and can tell you that the electrical contacts are upside down, so even any dirt entering, can't fall on the contacts.
    Or it had to drop upwards ;-?
    Now the other thing i was thinking about a sustained battery drain, because system doesn't go in Standby:
    could it be that when Parking the car, without locking the steering wheel, the ISM-vs-CiM system remains active ???
    I have not encountered this at mine, also I still need to test and verify probably next Weekend.
    Just a thought, since I have notice sometimes you can park and take out the key, without rotating on the steering wheel,
    it remains unlocked,... Hence the idea.
    This is the first car, where in 6years, I already have changed the battery twice.
    I suspect also the electronic link to the alternator; depending on load, regulates the charge.
    I think a 'normal' alternator with merely a build in voltage regulator/charge controller would charge more efficient!

    Yep, cars & electronics, and it won't get any better, but even worse with evolution,...
    Regards, Harry.
    Everything is simple ,regarding time spend

 

 

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