Removing manual transmission

[reallionaire314]

I started to take the trans out but have a few questions.
1. In the wis it says to cut the exhaust. Couldn't I just unbolt it to get it out of the way?

2. I don't have an engine support beam so how likely is it I can use a floor jack to support the engine from underneath?
3. It says to remove the 3 top trans bolts. I only seen 2. Both were to the right of the ps reservoir. The only place where it could be is under, slightly to the left, of the ps reservoir. I didn't see or feel a bolt. I just figure once I get all the outs and sub frame free, I can tilt the trans be able to see it

4. When I pulled the fluid line from the slave cylinder and just a little fluid came out.. like very little, I would have assumed since it's under pressure that a nice ammount would have come out... like if I disconnected a brake caliber. Am I wrong?

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[davmac]

1. If you can remove the exhaust with some bolts then certainly do so. Does the factory service manual really recommend you cut the exhaust pipe?

2. You can support the engine separately from below, but think you might find that the jack will get in the way. Here I'm assuming you are dropping the transmission out below the car. 2 options for supporting the engine from above: Build your own support beam with wood. This is not hard to do with 2x4s. Just look at the commercial units and duplicate the design. Add some cinch straps or chains to hold the engine to the support beam that you build. Option 2 is to use a come-along winch that you mount to the ceiling above the car. You'll need to remove the hood if you use the winch method. Both options support the engine from above and offer some adjustment when it is time to reconnect the engine and transmission.

3. I don't know about the location of the bolts that hold the tranny to the engine. I would think the WIS would provide details

4. The clutch slave cylinder (like brake calipers) are not under pressure unless the pedal is being pushed and the system is closed. However, when you disconnect either the brake or the clutch line they will drain their hydraulic reservoir. Too late for this, but a trick is to use something to hold the brake or clutch pedal to the floor before disconnecting the line. This isolates the reservoir and you'll lose almost no fluid at all (just the little that might drip out to clear the line) and can keep the line disconnected and not have to worry about bleeding the master cylinder.

[reallionaire314]

Well the trans is out the wis is not 100 percent accurate is what I foubd. There were only 2 top trans bolts. The wis said nothing about removing the starter or both axles but I figured it out. And I supported the engine with a bottle hack and yes its in the way of me moving the sub frame but I worked around it.

Took a week to get the clutch, but 1 more question.

What is the most efficient way of bleeding the slave cylinder and the clutch? I have a mityvac which is what I think I need. I need details becuase I have never used this thing and if there is a short cut to getting the slave and the clutch system bled I need that info

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