misfire on the engine white smoke and smelling gasoline

[Andreas]

I have chance the air intake to the turbo brand new. I take also out the fuel injector and i clean them, still the same i check all the vacuum with a special machine and no leak. I dont now what else to to.Maybe is the fuel regulator.

[Digger]

With gas on the vacuum side of the fuel pressure regulator it needs to be replaced, it might not be the entire problem, but it does need to be replaced.

This second part is to save time if this doesn't fix the entire problem and I can't be more specific because Europe has different emissions than the US, so some engine control things work differently.

The cam position sensor is a common failure, an inexpensive part and easy to change if you're working with the car on a hoist, bit of a bugger if it's on jack stands. as you have a vacuum tester check the running vacuum and don't just replace it to test it, even if it doesn't cost much. No need to waste money.
The engine controller sets fuel amount through the injectors and controls air through the throttle body like a choke on an old carburetor and your car should have a limp home on the throttle body, make sure that isn't tripped. No special equipment need and cost nothing to check so take a quick look.
A bad temp sensor will tell the controller the engine is cold and needs to be choked, so check temp sensors voltages on engine and charge air pipe for voltage change between cold and warm. It will be mille volts. You do need a volt ohm meter for this. Also check throttle position sensor for smooth resistance change open and closed throttle.
Don't forget to look and see if ground connections are good, cost nothing to look and takes no special equipment.

If you still have a problem after this you will probably need access to the Saab engine control system and that means getting hooked up to a tech2 with Saab software. Odds are that by the time you replace your fuel pressure regulator, check your wire harness grounds and make sure your sensors are working, you will have fixed the problem. If not you will need help I can't give you from here.

[Andreas]

The temp sensor can cause this problems? I have chance my cam sensor a 2 weeks ago brand new one. I have cheak all my sensor with a multi meter they working fine.

[Digger]

After I bought my Saab I bought the complete service manual on CD and yesterday I spent a couple of hours going over the 2003 Saab service section. Yes a sensor can do this, a bad wire connection can do this, a bad engine controller can do this and except for the fuel pressure regulator, it sounds like you have checked and done everything you can without having a scan tool with Saab service software. The Saab WIS is written to provide answers to all kinds of problems, but it expects these answers to come as test results from the tech2 scan tool and for some of these answers it expects the test results to be downloaded from the tool to the computer. This tool is pricy and depending on what part needs to be replaced you will need to use it several times to break even if you buy one. If replacing your fuel pressure regulator doesn't solve this problem, having someone with this tool fix your car will save you money because diagnosing a bad part doesn't program it to work with the car and you might have reached this point.

[Andreas]

I have a OBd 2 scan tool and the error now is P1312-00 ignition coil - knock detection cylinder 1& 2. What is that?

[Digger]

P1312.pdf

So you've taken care of 3 of the 4 codes and this could be the final fix. Can't print the pages that want answers to tech2 tests, problem can be wires, wire connections, coil pack module, or engine control module.

If it helps any, I once replaced a single plug coil on an 01 Volvo, problem is easy to find when you have individual coils and while I had the top off I put in new plugs when I replaced the bad coil. When I fired it up I found two more bad coils, the old coils were good enough to fire the old plugs, but not strong enough to fire the new. You did put in all new plugs and I suspect that your engine control module is good and you will find a bad plug connection or coil pack.

[FlanMan]

P1312.pdf

So you've taken care of 3 of the 4 codes and this could be the final fix. Can't print the pages that want answers to tech2 tests, problem can be wires, wire connections, coil pack module, or engine control module.

If it helps any, I once replaced a single plug coil on an 01 Volvo, problem is easy to find when you have individual coils and while I had the top off I put in new plugs when I replaced the bad coil. When I fired it up I found two more bad coils, the old coils were good enough to fire the old plugs, but not strong enough to fire the new. You did put in all new plugs and I suspect that your engine control module is good and you will find a bad plug connection or coil pack.

I just wanted to say Thank you..!! Theres now way I can explain to you how helpful, profeshional, explaining each step, (for other tech's and like myself weekend macanic's), cost frendly directions (my self needed), and most of all your pashients in explaining in great detail your answers to each of the persons questions! Most people never say thank you or understand the years that go into gaining the expirence of knowing all the answers you gave freely..! This is the first conversation I've every read from online where, after reading the conversation. I feel confedient, relieved, have direction, and have no questions..! I'm a great carpenter, but without my saab running correctly and with vary little money to replace parts, and normally never finding the right answers needed on online. I felt little confidence that I'd have no way to get to work, inturn creating the "snow ball effect"!
I wanted to take this time, ..... TO SAY THANK YOU DIGGER FOR YOUR TIME AND KNOWLEGE TO HELP OTHERS....! A++

[swisssaabist]

Everybody here know DIGGER was a Champ !! SO DIG Thanks you from my part.

[Digger]

I do appreciate the written notes of appreciation and while I'm here mentioning this thought I'd toss in a couple of words on plugs and coil packs.

Plug gap is really important and there is a spread of a couple thousandths (or millimeters for you metric people) in allowable gap size and perfect match of gap becomes critical with the aftermarket coil packs where misfire codes galore can occur when all four plugs are not perfectly matched. Not going to say that any particular gap in this range is optimum, but I will say that in a feeler gage set the .019 feeler gage is right next to the .020 and .039 is the easiest to equally set all of the plugs at. I will also say that as much as I recommend saving money by using comparable aftermarket parts and cross-referenced GM part numbers, but for coil packs today I say pay the extra and get the Saab Mitsubishi coils.

[swisssaabist]

you're absolutely right, i will not using others than original parts in this area, thousand of posts I've reading last month are all heading same direction, You fooled with that you're in troubles.
some useful infos found in forums not traduced in USA scales sorry for that ;-)
B204E/L/R:BCPR7ES-11, gap:1.00-1.10 mm
B234E/L/R:BCPR7ES-11, gap:1.00-1.10 mm

B205E:BCPR6ES-11, gap: 1.00-1.10 mm
B205E:M/01-> with Saab tuningkit FR6H-10, gap:0.90-1.00 mm
B205BioPower:BCPR7ES-11, gap:1.00-1.10 mm

B235E:BCPR6ES-11, gap: 1.00-1.10 mm
B235L FR6H-10, gap: 0.90-1.00 mm
B235R FR6H-10 or possibly PFR7H-10, gap: 0.90-1.00 mm

B308E:BKR7ES-11, gap 1.00-1.10 mm (Different from 4-cyl)

Note:
1) Since the spark plug is used as a sensor, the recommended type must be used, otherwise the "sensor reading can not be trusted".

2) Use only NGK plugs.

3) Electrode gap, use the values shown above. There is absolutely no truth in the myth "LPT 1.10 and Aeros 1.00".

4) Gap should be checked with a wire gauge.

5) You need a 16 mm or in inch, 5/8" spark plug socket.

6) Tightening torque is very important, too loose will cause the plugs to overheat.
4-cyl.28 Nm
V6:27 Nm.
Or, if using NGK (Saab) sparkplugs, first just nip the plug with your fingers, then tighten with 3/4 of a turn.

7) Tighten the DI with 11 Nm.

8) The myth that All 4-cyl can use BCPR6ES-11 or BCPR7ES-11 is not true.

9) Under some circumstances different plugs can be used, we run BCPR5ES-11 on some markets, due to fuel quality and driving behaviour. However, DO NOT
try to be an expert, just simply because you're not ! Stay with the official advice.

10) For highly boosted high reving engines BCPR9ES-11 has been tried,
however, if you need cold hard plugs like this, you may consider your choice of tuner...

11) Also BCR8ES has been tried, once again, it may not be the best choice...
The BCR8ES plug is physically different from the BCPR plugs, the gap is "more hidden" and this is not what a engine expert aims for. The gap should normally be deep into the air/fuel mixture.

12) Do NOT use iridium plugs.