Engine shut off going down road!

[Brianl197733]

Not coming from injectors or valve train.....sounds like it is loudest by the passenger side. Possibly idler pulley....
Though it seems to be spinning fine and not jumping. The tick grets faster as the rpms increase. It's not a rapid ticking like injectors or valves.

[geoff 9-3]

Its probably timing chain related or balance shaft chain because you found a couple of bits of plastic probably from the guides. Have you got any pictures of the bits of plastic?

[Brianl197733]

I still have the plastic but I'm at work and they are home! I'll post pics tomorrow.

[geoff 9-3]

Ok Brian post the pictures when you get home.

[Digger]

You don't know for sure that the last owners replaced the CPS, they might not have gotten any farther than the plug, sometimes these things slide right out and sometimes it's like pulling teeth and if you're not willing to risk breaking it, you might not get it out. So yes, as long as you already have a new sensor, might as well replace it. With a new sensor replacing a good working sensor it probably won't make any difference, but you don't know for certain that it was replaced or when and you could save yourself an all day job. If it doesn't get rid of the tick, you at least know for sure it's not the problem and when it was replaced.

The echo chamber that is more commonly known as the turbo exhaust manifold can distort the sound of pre ignition or a noisy rack enough to make it sound like a bad main. As you took on the task of cleaning your own sump, you probably know every sound inside that choir of sounds your engine makes and you probably know exactly where that ticking sound that caught your ear is coming from. If it's down under and louder inside the pan than it is up top, start shopping for the best parts price.

For those that can't tell the difference between the clicking of the fuel injectors and the closing of valves; best to have someone who knows what these things sound like listen to your engine. Like a dog that can pick the sound of his masters car out of all the traffic on the road, an experienced mechanic knows the sound of a bearing going bad.

If the car is up on blocks and you're laying on your back, replacing the mains really is an all day job. After spending all day laying under the car with oil dripping in your face, you don't want to button it up, oil it up and still hear it tick. On the other hand putting in new mains won't hurt anything, it's the kind of preventative maintenance that never gets done and if it doesn't fix the tick, you will know the sound that is not the mains.

[geoff 9-3]

Also a mistake often made when replacing the cps sensor, sometimes the o/ring stays in place and when the new one is fitted you end up with 2 o-rings

[Brianl197733]

Sounds good thanks for the input Digger. I'll swap the sensor and go from there. I can always keep the old one for a backup.....common problem I'm told and have read. Im not a mechanic but my gut is telling me the sound is coming from the timing chain or balancers....since the main bearings are much easier to tackle I'll start there. I'll keep you posted.

[swisssaabist]

as my recent experience leads me to think about (when your engine is running on charge(acceleration) and the noise coming more loud it's a problem with timing chain, i have on my own a pressure oil failure go to my garage with a clicking sound ( questions are: is it on the lower or upper engine noise coming from.maybe a valve lifter starving from oil ... or a big end bearing on cylinders burnt they doing check for all of these when i've asking to drop the sump.
they discovered metal small part on the filter of the sump ...completely clogged...change oil put in order but nothing change...at the end need to change the engine coz doing timing change at all, need to take out the engine and cost the same price to swap engine so i did it found an used engine from a 9-3 b205 same engine different mounting so cost me an eye plus an arm.
SO to ALL of you check the oil each week don't let the level going down do the oil change before 6000 miles or 10000 kms use only synthetic 0/5W 30 or need to prepare you to sell an eye ;-))

[Digger]

as my recent experience leads me to think about (when your engine is running on charge(acceleration) and the noise coming more loud it's a problem with timing chain, i have on my own a pressure oil failure go to my garage with a clicking sound ( questions are: is it on the lower or upper engine noise coming from.maybe a valve lifter starving from oil ... or a big end bearing on cylinders burnt they doing check for all of these when i've asking to drop the sump.
they discovered metal small part on the filter of the sump ...completely clogged...change oil put in order but nothing change...at the end need to change the engine coz doing timing change at all, need to take out the engine and cost the same price to swap engine so i did it found an used engine from a 9-3 b205 same engine different mounting so cost me an eye plus an arm.
SO to ALL of you check the oil each week don't let the level going down do the oil change before 6000 miles or 10000 kms use only synthetic 0/5W 30 or need to prepare you to sell an eye ;-))

When the engine is running a bad timing chain will change sound under load, not so with rod or main bearings, they do have their own unique sounds and like interpreting any language, in describing a sound you loose inflection with translation. Consider the phrase "ticking like a watch". Ticking is the sound a watch makes as the second hand moves and a spring wind watch has an entirely different tick than a quartz movement watch. If you haven't heard the two different sounds, you don't really know the difference.

Sound is a personal learning experience and sometimes the lessons are expensive. When you didn't know what the sound was you went to someone who should. Now you know the sound of a spun bearing and the sound it made before it spun. Sorry to hear you had to replace an engine, but it sounds like your mechanic was honest and gave you the most affordable fix, though any repair that cost an eye and an arm sounds quite expensive.

Glad you made your posting as it reminded me how I learned the sound a main bearing makes. If you're not trying to learn how to diagnose an engine by sound, it doesn't really matter if you can tell the difference between a rod, or main. If your drain oil didn't look like metal flake black paint and you're ticking sound is more like a watch than a grandfather clock and you're almost certain the sound is coming form the crank, the rods are so easy to do while you're doing the mains, you might as well do them both. It will take an extra hour to do the job, parts will cost twice as much, but if you're wrong on the sound coming from the crank you won't need to do the job twice to know for sure and if you're to late to save the engine you've spent twice as much on parts.

Of course you don't absolutely need to spend any money on parts to drop the pan, check your crank and all of your bearings, but if you damage a bearing while taking it out you will need a new one to replace it.

[swisssaabist]

We are very glad if you have some news for us about your engine do you fix it ?