key not working, car not starting

[aupeter]

Hi guys,

so, here is a history of the problem;

1. Central locking intermittently not working (got locked into the car for 2 hours one day). Was resolved by placing key in ignition.
2. Steering Wheel Malfunction intermittently occurring. This comes and goes with no real fix.

I've had new batteries in both FOB's and car - still had intermittent problems. Taking negative lead off battery resets and all good for a while.

3. KEY WON'T TURN IN IGNITION - SO CAN'T START CAR. CAN'T LOCK CAR - NO RESPONSE AT ALL FROM FROM BOTH KEYS = removing battery terminal not fixing issue (I do have radio and hazard lights === HELP!!!!!!!!

I would like some ideas about how to A. fix the issue or B. follow a diagnostic procedure (not Tech2) to determine if it is the ICM or the CIM, or any other FRIGGIN' thing!

Many thanks to all who respond,,,Peter

[aupeter]

Sorry guys......actually removing the negative lead from the battery did work, and I have the car working again ...I was expecting it not to work and for expediency sake I wanted to post.......I am sure I will continue to have intermittent problems with central locking and steering wheel mfnctn....So, I would like to RESOLVE the issue.......any ideas PLEASE..........

My thoughts (from a position of knowing nothing) is that somehow the ICM is integral to most systems in the car???? Can someone explain or help with this???? THANKS

[Deggy]

Peter.....
be careful removing and adding the negative lead sooner or later you will damage something..
For solve the problem in the right way w/o trash money a tech2 diagnosis is a must....anyway if you can't have a diagnosis in my knowledge for what you describe i suggest to replace the ISM at first,if you are lucky everything will be ok,if not then you need a Tech2 diagnosis...or at least an obd reader and retrive the DTC'S..
Don't try to replace other things w/o knowing what are you doing...( my tip after 25years of SAAB assistance).
Ciao Luca.

[Digger]

For a detailed description of how this thing works you're going to have to read the WIS for yourself. I can tell you how it works in simple terms, but I can't tell you why anyone would think this transponder setup would be better than a key. Back when these things were brand new I had a friend in the repo business and he had less trouble picking up one of these than the older models with real keys. Honestly, who in their right mind implements an electronic security to protect a valuable item, then tells people around the world how to defeat it.

If you've built an earphone crystal radio from a science kit you already know the biggest half of how this works. Like a crystal radio the transponder key is a receiver that is transmission powered. Like the crystal radio uses a wire wound transformer to power the earphone the transponder key amplifies received signal to power its transmitter. The crystal radio puts sound to your ear, the chip on the transponder transmits a specific code that the ICM is programed to accept.

For power, transmission and reception the key socket is a miniature version of the department store door, you carry an active security tag through the door and it sends a signal that sounds an alarm. Cars being a little bit more mobile than stores get their security system power from a battery and when the battery is weak, or some ground isn't good, it doesn't provide power to wake up the control modules, power the transmitter, to trigger the relays and make this thing work like it should.

The rolling code of the remote changes every time a button is pushed, don't use the spare for to long a time, or push the buttons often enough while you carry it in your pocket or purse and you are out of synch with the car. The remote entry is kind of like the family dog when its best friend in the world comes home after being off to school for a year, or on leave from the service wearing a hat like the mailman. It's barking stranger doesn't belong here, until the dog hears its friends voice and then it's boy am I glad to see you. Turning the key is like calling the dogs name.

Why does it work as well as it does is more a mystery than what makes it not work. When it comes to what causes problems in this security system it starts at the battery that connects to things that get hot, cold and sometimes wet, that are interconnected to several small computers that operate in an environment that can go from cold enough to make ice cubes, to hot enough to fry eggs in a matter of minutes.

Not to mention that the ignition switch sits under one cup holder and directly in front of another.

[aupeter]

Hey Digger, thanks. Wish it translated into solving something. Peter

[Digger]

Hey Digger, thanks. Wish it translated into solving something. Peter

Well Peter, I have my own irritating problem that happens every couple of months and sometimes when you have an intermittent problem all you can do is swap parts and see if it goes away. Not so easy to do when the part you question is married to the car, so tonight I ordered a Chinese Tech 2, I figure it will pay for itself the day it arrives. For your intermittent problem the only part that doesn't need Saab software and the Tech 2 to test or programed is the ignition switch. It also sits in a place where it could have had soda spilled on it and it might just be sticky in the plunger switch and that can affect the wheel lock and the door fob. Like a sticky key on a keyboard, you hit it a couple of times and nothing happens orrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. and you have to turn the computer off to get it to stop.