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28 September 2017 #1
- Join Date
- 07 Jun 2013
- Location
- Wausau, WI
- Posts
- 192
- Saab(s)
- 2006 Saab 9-5, 2004 Saab 9-5 Aero; 2002 9-3 HOT Hatch
04 Saab 9-5 Aero Broken Head Bolt Removal
GM SW,
I have two snapped off bolts stuck in my head (exhaust manifold) that I need to remove, but to drill them out accurately, I need a good line of sight. I thought about jacking up the motor, but I really dont think I'll get the clearance I need, even if I remove/undo some motor mounts. The other option I was exploring was removing the front end, so I can step inside the frame and get a solid line of sight that way. Does anyone have any tips, tricks, or links on how to effectively drill out bolts that are snapped off in the head, or how to remove the front end entirely, so I can get these bolts out. I need to not poison myself any longer when driving to work, due to exhaust fumes entering the cabin.
As always, thank you for your time, and have a great day!
-Mario
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28 September 2017 #2
- Join Date
- 28 Oct 2016
- Location
- Minneapolis Minnesota
- Posts
- 1,136
- Saab(s)
- 2006 9-3 2.0t SportCombi
You need tools. Done this more than a hundred times and this is why exhaust shops bid pulling manifolds by the number of studs. If the stud broke off and you have smooth standoff sticking up, don't even think of drilling before you try using the tool that's made for this job. Check with your local parts store to see if they have one.
If you have any length of stud sticking out of the hole, screw on if you can or hammer a slightly smaller nut on to what's sticking up and weld through the nut to the top of the stud then tighten and loosen until you walk it out. if you're flush with the head you need more tools and some you will have to make, this could be a machine shop job. if you're really good with a wire feed welder you can still weld nut to stud, but one spot of weld to screw thread on the head and this becomes a more expensive machine shop job.
Post pictures if you can and I will give list of tools you will need to do this job yourself.
Steel studs love to stick to alloy threads and when a stud
If you're going to Google up U-tubes these things are called studs and how much is left will make a big difference in what you can do to get them out and sometimes you take the head to the machine shop.
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28 September 2017 #3
- Join Date
- 07 Jun 2013
- Location
- Wausau, WI
- Posts
- 192
- Saab(s)
- 2006 Saab 9-5, 2004 Saab 9-5 Aero; 2002 9-3 HOT Hatch
These are broken off, recessed in the block, so no grabbing them. I do have this stud extractor, that works fairly well, but of no use with these two bolts (bottom of manifold, left-most and right-most side). I'll grab some pictures later. I have a hammer & punch, cobalt drill bits, easy outs and left-handed drill bits as well. I'm thinking if I remove my radiator, I'll have enough room to sneak in there and get a good line of sight. I'm sure I'm missing some tools, and this is my first go around at the rodeo with stud extraction, so your tool list will be invaluable.
Thanks Digger!
-M
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28 September 2017 #4
- Join Date
- 28 Oct 2016
- Location
- Minneapolis Minnesota
- Posts
- 1,136
- Saab(s)
- 2006 9-3 2.0t SportCombi
Don't punch, use centering drill, (thick shaft short tiny bit) HarborFreight set will cost less than one bit at ACE and the other sizes do come in handy, eventually. While you're getting the bit pick up a 3/8 variable speed right angle drill.
Hopefully your studs twisted off flat inside the hole, if not be extremely careful with the Dremmel and grinding wheel.
Put the manifold back on the head and use it as a drill block to help hold the bit to center and at a perfect 90 and cut your pilot hole. Takes time to acquire an assortment of bearings that fit snug in the manifold and hold a drill bit in place, so use what can to keep your drill bits straight.
When studs breaks in the head the screw threads are always one with the manifold and there is no good way to soak them free with the head on the engine, so after you get your center hole drilled use a butane or map gas torch to heat the stud as hot as you can, let it sit and by guess at when the temp is right push the end of a birthday cake size candle into the upper most point of the hole and let it suck wax into the threads, then drill to use the biggest extractor you can.
Studs are not soft steel and being in the head has made them even harder so drill at medium speed, you will need to push some, but don't push so hard that you break the bit off in the hole.
The stud comes out or it doesn't. If it doesn't you will need a couple of tools that you might never use again.
Good Luck
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29 September 2017 #5
Bruno Saab Addict
- Join Date
- 18 Nov 2016
- Location
- Cheeseland or TICTAC land
- Posts
- 603
- Saab(s)
- 9-5 ARC Wagon 2002 2 t auto engine B205E
Another ( I have some experience with that kind of job ) really good way to do, I ignoring the candle trick thanks Dig !! centering drill is definitively the tool you need, I've recently saw a post from a guy with a complete destroyed head by the previous owner with a crater on the entry of threads. so wish you good luck to you Kaz !!
use hard metal one not steel one or with a coated sharp edges(yellow) you need to punch a little point with hammer and punch before using the drill.
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29 September 2017 #6
- Join Date
- 07 Jun 2013
- Location
- Wausau, WI
- Posts
- 192
- Saab(s)
- 2006 Saab 9-5, 2004 Saab 9-5 Aero; 2002 9-3 HOT Hatch
@swiss - Thx!
Ok guys another question, can I remove thebumper, radiator, and the metal frame piece that the grill goes into? All I see is online is how to remove the bumper. I'm trying to drill this out w/o removing the head, I have a spare head I can take to the shop and get it redone, but I don't have time, so trying to do this while the head is still on the block.
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30 September 2017 #7
- Join Date
- 28 Oct 2016
- Location
- Minneapolis Minnesota
- Posts
- 1,136
- Saab(s)
- 2006 9-3 2.0t SportCombi
If you want or need to you can pull the core support, it is a crash damage replaceable part and if the bottom screws aren't rusted in place it pulls real easy. Getting all the plastic, radiator and ac cores off is what takes time and busts knuckles.
With right angle drill and stubby bits you should have plenty of room with fan and radiator out of the way, beats breaking down the ac lines to move the condenser out of the way.
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