Saab 9-3 2007 front end popping sound after idling

[mdehass]

I have been trying to track down a popping sound from the front end of my 9-3. When cold the car drives fine with no sounds when steering. When I stop driving and idle at a parking spot for 5-10 minutes, pull out and start driving again, there is a loud continuous popping sound from the front end as I make turns around the parking lot and then subsequently as I drive around town making turns. There is no popping sound when I am going straight. It happens if I turn right or left. I think it is in the power steering area but I cant be sure. The mechanic I took it to seems to think that it is strut tower bearings. I am not so sure. I'm thinking it might have something to do with the power steering pump/fluid and/or heat. Any thoughts?

Thanks for your time
Mark

[Digger]

Bad strut bearing plates and bad CV joints both make sounds when turning, the sounds are different and mechanics that have some experience can tell the difference. If your mechanic actually drove the car and heard the sound, then odds are you have a bad strut bearing and you should get if fixed before you have a strut sticking up through your engine hood.

a1auto sells complete spring strut everything ready to bolt in assemblies making strut replacement a fairly easy DIY and then take it in for an alignment job.

[mdehass]

I was temped to do just that but this problem comes and goes based on if the car is idling or not. In the mornings there are no popping sounds at all. It drives noise free. Its only after it has warmed up and has been sitting idle for about 5-10 minutes then when I steer around it make that sound. So I'm not 100% sold on the strut tower bearing yet.

[Digger]

Things get warn under the hood when the engine is running and before things under the hood get cooler, they get even warmer after you turn the engine off. If you have a popping sound in the power steering you shouldn't need to be driving down the road to hear the sound, you should be able to hear it while sitting still and moving the wheel from lock to lock. Sound that can only be heard while moving and turning is a sound that needs to be found.

Before it gets worse, the first sound you hear from a bad strut plate or CV joint is a very slight ticking and the word ticking is a sound that people associate with watches and clocks. I have three watches that tick a 60's vintage wind up Bolivia, an 80's vintage self winding Seiko and a 90's vintage self winding Rolex, each has its own unique sounding tick and none of them tick like the clock on my desk. I can't hear the sound you hear and describing a sound in writing leaves a lot to the imagination so what you call a pop I might call a snap.

Driving with questionable steering, suspension or brakes puts you and who knows how many others at risk. If your mechanic heard the sound, trust your mechanic. If you don't trust your regular mechanics opinion, go to an alignment shop and get an under car mechanics opinion. Find out what the sound is from someone who can hear the sound and knows what causes the sound. Doesn't really matter if it's strut plate or steering, guarantee you don't want either of these to give up the ghost while you're driving.

[mdehass]

Ok I'm going to try and tackle this job over the holiday break. FCPEuro has a very nice write up on how to do it. You are correct in that it doesn't look overly complicated. You mentioned the a1auto part which I looked at but they never mention who makes the actual strut. Do you have any opinion on the a1auto version vs the eEuroparts kit? The eEuroparts kit uses the Sachs struts which I believe are OEM. Am I wasting my $ on the eEuroparts kit? Is it of better quality than the a1auto one?

Thanks for all your help.

[Digger]

Do you have any opinion on the a1auto version vs the eEuroparts kit? The eEuroparts kit uses the Sachs struts which I believe are OEM. Am I wasting my $ on the eEuroparts kit? Is it of better quality than the a1auto one?

My opinion is that replacing captured struts can be dangerous even when using a caged strut compressor and the quick struts assembly's are safer and easier for everyone to replace. You never look at an un captured strut end straight on and the write up pictures were spooky to say the least. When I do struts with spring compressors, I do them laying on their side, foot on the strut end and spring end pointing away.

If you want to keep your performance stiff ride go with europarts, but I would put the 1a on mine. Chevy parts cost less than Saab parts and there is a Chevy that uses the same front end parts. Chevys ride a bit softer than Saabs, so my guess is that 1a selling these at the Chevy aftermarket price for use on the Saab. The 1a price is $300 less than the europarts price which includes link pins and if a link pin breaks it can ruin a drive axel, maybe even put you into the ditch, so a good things to replace before they break, but even up here in rust country you very seldom need to replace line mounts or concentric bolts on a ten year old car.

Yes there is a bit of difference in quality, but will it make a difference for you and the way you drive?