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  1. #1
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    Waterpump failing?

    Put new radiator , thermostat and flush the coolant , but problem still persist , when I drive it on traffic all the sudden the coolant low light goes off and pulled over , open the hood the coolant overflow gets filled up with coolant and coolant goes off the overflow tank nipple , the temperature gauge doesn't go over 1/2 mark , any idea?

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  2. #2
    Saab Owner Digger's Avatar
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    Better check for exhaust gas in the coolant. Go to your local parts store, or search the web and buy the kit.

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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Digger View Post
    Better check for exhaust gas in the coolant. Go to your local parts store, or search the web and buy the kit.
    Exhaust gas? how do I check exhaust gas ? and what kit should I buy ? water pump kit?

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  4. #4
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    I think they are talking about a radiator pressure testing kit. it's used to produce pressure on the cooling system.

    Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

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  5. #5
    Saab Owner Digger's Avatar
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    Overheating an engine can kill a head gasket. Even with the car up on a hoist replacing a water pump on this car is no small job and it costs big to have it done. Doesn't sound like a water pump problem so check for exhaust before spending that money. A picture is worth a thousand words and these are the best pictures I could find.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2f5qEhaFdk
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zpNjYmmiYY

    If you do have exhaust gas in the coolant there is a polymer based product that has a 50/50 chance of working, but all the U-tubes I found only show how to keep coolant out of the cylinders. Read label instructions and get the best stuff you can and if a sealer has been tried and failed, doing it again will get the same result.
    https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...eduardo-ruelas


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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Digger View Post
    Overheating an engine can kill a head gasket. Even with the car up on a hoist replacing a water pump on this car is no small job and it costs big to have it done. Doesn't sound like a water pump problem so check for exhaust before spending that money. A picture is worth a thousand words and these are the best pictures I could find.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2f5qEhaFdk
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zpNjYmmiYY

    If you do have exhaust gas in the coolant there is a polymer based product that has a 50/50 chance of working, but all the U-tubes I found only show how to keep coolant out of the cylinders. Read label instructions and get the best stuff you can and if a sealer has been tried and failed, doing it again will get the same result.
    https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...eduardo-ruelas

    im sorry if this question sound stupid , is it possible if the real engine temp is higher than the cluster reads? and maybe im wrong the cooling fans work based on the cluster read? seems like my cooling fan barely working

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  7. #7
    Saab Owner Digger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greenie 00 9 5 kombi View Post
    im sorry if this question sound stupid , is it possible if the real engine temp is higher than the cluster reads? and maybe im wrong the cooling fans work based on the cluster read? seems like my cooling fan barely working
    Real engine temp verses cluster display is not a stupid question, common problem on many different makes and models. Also coolant temp sensors don't read hot air at the same temp as they read hot coolant and air pockets in the cooling system mess with temp reading. Leaking head gaskets create air pockets in the cooling system. Pin hole leaks, leaks to small to ooze coolant but large enough suck in air instead of pulling coolant back from expansion tank when the engine cools also create air pockets in the system.

    Cooling fans don't work on cluster read, analog gage gets signal to display temp from engine controller, cooling fan gets on off from engine controller. Engine controller reads temp sensor resistance value.

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Digger View Post
    Real engine temp verses cluster display is not a stupid question, common problem on many different makes and models. Also coolant temp sensors don't read hot air at the same temp as they read hot coolant and air pockets in the cooling system mess with temp reading. Leaking head gaskets create air pockets in the cooling system. Pin hole leaks, leaks to small to ooze coolant but large enough suck in air instead of pulling coolant back from expansion tank when the engine cools also create air pockets in the system.

    Cooling fans don't work on cluster read, analog gage gets signal to display temp from engine controller, cooling fan gets on off from engine controller. Engine controller reads temp sensor resistance value.
    Thank you very much for all your informations , so if all the radiator and coolant hoses are new , there is a possibility that the ECM replacement that I "married " with the car might not be compatible , so its giving out false reading ?

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  9. #9
    Saab Owner Digger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greenie 00 9 5 kombi View Post
    Thank you very much for all your informations , so if all the radiator and coolant hoses are new , there is a possibility that the ECM replacement that I "married " with the car might not be compatible , so its giving out false reading ?
    Anything is possible, but it would be more likely that the temp sensor isn't reading as it should, or the wire connection between the two isn't as good as it should be, than the ECM not being compatible without having hard / check engine light code. Another possibility is that you are leaving out one or more important details in the problem description.

    The coolant level sensor has nothing to do with engine temp, but like the fuel level sender they do go bad and you had tranny fluid in your coolant so it might just stick when the coolant gets warm. They also don't float in air and when you have bubbles galore blowing into the expansion tank they don't float. Did you check for exhaust gas in the coolant?

    Coolant stops flowing and coolant gets hotter when the engine gets turned off. It is normal for coolant to fill the expansion tank and spit the excess of an overfilled system when a warm engine is turned off. Is the engine running at normal operating temp while you watch the coolant over flow? Do you see any bubbles? You could have an air pocket that didn't get burped when filled and whatever you are doing could be retaining the air pocket, or you could have a warm engine head gasket leak.

    The cooling fan is a wind machine, it spins with force when running, barley spinning would be a problem. Barley running, as in not running when you think it should while the engine temp shows normal and the coolant tank is overflowing is a perception.

    Toss a jug of premix coolant in the car for the just in case, start with a cold engine at cold coolant level, with the coolant cap loose, but not so loose that it can fall off while driving, turn your heater on to full hot, open as many windows as you need and drive in traffic for whatever time it normally takes for your coolant low problem, then park the car and let it cool. If the expansion tank sucks completely dry when cold you will need to fill to cold level and do it all over again before you can know anything useful.

    If you still have some coolant in the expansion tank fill to the cold level, leave the cap off, start the engine, with your heater still set at full hot and watch for bubbles. If you cleared a major air pocket, cavitation bubbles on initial start will quickly dissipate. If you still have bubbles by the time your coolant is warm enough to reach the full when hot line, you might still have an air pocket, turn the engine off and let it cool. Doing this several times should clear it, if not you probably have a compression leak, but you could also have a pin hole suction and for a few dollars a compression gas test can save a lot of time because a bad radiator can also mean a bad hard pipe or heater core. Pin hole suction leaks are hard to find, but always cost less than a new head gasket.

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  10. #10
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    After water pump replaced , new thermostat , new radiator , problem persisted , then I drove my other 04 9 3 I felt like the cooling fans turn on a lot more than the combi I was working on , got back home and tried to direct power the fans to the battery , problem solved , turned out that the maxi fuse 36 on the engine bay was blown , replaced that and it drives perfect on traffic or heavy load , thank you for all the help

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