2006 Saab 9 5 - learning to replace the head gasket, need help

[saabknob]

Hi everyone,
I'm new to the forum so if it's better to ask somewhere else just let me know and I'll do my best to move it. I'm using the Haynes manual to learn how to change the head gasket on my '06 9 5 2.3t. I took it to the shop and they told me the head gasket needed replacing. It had been losing coolant and it didn't seem to be leaking from anywhere. It also has a lot of oil all over the engine, so it may be leaking from elsewhere as well, and I'm planning to do the valve cover gaskets at least also.

Reading some of the forum posts here, it seems like maybe I should have tried some other things/ tests of my own before taking them at their word, but I think I'm too far in by this point. Anyhow, my question really is that I've been doing my best to follow along in the Haynes manual, but am now confused, because if I follow all of the steps through to the end, it seems like there will still be a few things attached to the cylinder head, so I'm wondering if anybody can help me out with identifying what is what to help me learn. I'm attaching 2 pictures of the lefthand side of the cylinder head, with arrows pointing to some of the things that I think will still be attached. It's really hard to get good pictures in there right now, so if you need better ones I can try again when I have better light.

The other thing, which I haven't taken a picture of, is that it says to leave the exhaust manifold on. It asks me to disconnect the front exhaust pipe from the turbo (almost done, that bottom bolt is TOUGH), but as far as I can see it isn't saying anywhere to separate the exhaust manifold from the turbo or remove the turbo, so I can't picture how this is supposed to work out.

I'm a little bit new still at some of this, so I could just me misunderstanding some of the directions. Has anybody done this and/or know what how to move forward on this?

[Pali7]

I just did this to our 9-5 and haven't finished yet, but close. First off, take pictures of all the Vacuum hoses and where they go. There isn't a line or hose diagram to be found any where. Don't trust your book's torq specs. Make sure you have a good torq wench. The big thing in front stays on the head. disconnect the hoses and lines (take pictures!). Some plastic lines may be brittle, take it easy on them. You will find good write ups and great help on this forum.

[nordwulf]

You should download and install the Saab WIS. The Haynes manuals are good but they sometimes don't include all the steps and/or information. There are instructions for removing and fitting the cylinder in the WIS, including all tightening torque information.

More info here: http://saabworld.net/showthread.php?t=33310

[saabknob]

Thank you both for the helpful suggestions. The WIS system is super helpful so far. I had to take a pretty big break in the job, so my car has been sitting apart for a good couple of months. Hopefully that won't be a huge problem! I have a couple of questions that I am stuck on!!

First : I got the head back from the machine shop and everything looked OK to them. The the valves for 3 of the 4 cylinders all look the same (flush), but for one there is a little bit of a gap between the valves and the cylinder head. I tried to capture this in the pictures here. The first image is how three of the cylinders look, with the valves more or less flush. The second image is how one of the cylinders looks, with a little gap:

Is this normal? Just want to make sure before I refit it!

My other question is about torque values for a couple of parts that the machine shop removed from the cylinder head. One is the bolts holding on the piece pictured here, next to where the intake manifold goes and where one of the coolant hoses attaches to the cylinder head. Any idea how tightly I torque this? I can't find which section this would be in the WIS:
I also need to re-attach this black piece, but I have no idea what it is called and can't find it in the WIS:


Thanks so much for any help!!

[Pali7]

If the cams are on the head, then that is normal for the valves.

[ts888]

Speaking as a guy who builds engines professionally -- don't get wrapped around the axle about torque specs. I use a torque wrench on the fasteners for rod and main bearings, camshafts, and heads. Nothing else is critical.

If you insist -- The fasteners on that thermostat housing are M8x1.25, grade 8. Going into aluminum you wouldn't want to exceed about 15 lbft/20 Nm. AKA, "snug."

[saabknob]

The cams are in the head- thanks! that gives some peace of mind before starting. Also really good to know about the torque settings, ts888. I plan to still follow what's in the WIS when it's provided, but won't worry so much about things if they're not specified.

[Pali7]

Just be light if bolts are going into aluminum. I used pounds instead of "Nm", the manual said to use pounds, they were wrong, stripped it.

[saabknob]

I am having trouble getting the head back into the car. I don't know if maybe I need to take the alternator and alternator bracket (that big metal piece at the rear of the engine) off, but that bracket is super in the way. I tried with my dad the other day and we just could not get the head to line up with the dowels and sit right. Unfortunately, I think we scratched the gasket surface trying, so now I'm not totally sure what to do. The scratches don't look like they're in the worst place - I can take pictures and post them later, but they are directly behind the bolt holes that have the raised dowels... not really between the cylinder or any coolant passages or anything like that.

Do I need to take it and have it machined? It didn't need it before, so it may still be possible to take a little off. Would it be stupid to add something like a silicone gasket maker on top of the gasket to just try to "seal" those scratches? Something like Permatex High Temp Red RTV (since I have some of that).

Thanks for the help!

(Also, maybe I should have asked this before I tried to begin with, but if I was not 100% able to keep some small pieces debris from falling into the coolant passages... Is there a good way to clean those out? How important would that be to do?

[Pali7]

Permatex makes some copper spray to spray on the head gasket, I had to use it on mine. It fill in small scratches. Other sealants are not good for the head gasket.