Can't get rid of DIC issues

[Rochev]

2007 Aero, 78k miles. I was getting the following codes:
P0340-camshaft sensor-no sensor, read that it's the DIC
P1312-DIC
P1334-DIC
P0562-system voltage low (?)


I bought the car and it needed a new alternator and battery. I replaced them both. I cleared the engine codes and a few days later they all came back, but it was still running fine. I changed the plugs to OEM NGK laser platinum. The plug wells had oil in them and the plugs were very sooty. I also installed a new genuine DIC at the same time. The plugs are all gapped at .09

NOW, the engine is surging and at stop lights it tends to idle at around 1100 rpm. It feels like it's hyper and wants to race. It also seems a bit more sluggish. Why would brand new plugs and DIC throw the same exact codes AND cause it to run and drive rough? It had no problems before!
TIA

[Digger]

2007 Aero, 78k miles. I was getting the following codes:
P0340-camshaft sensor-no sensor, read that it's the DIC
P1312-DIC
P1334-DIC
P0562-system voltage low (?)


I bought the car and it needed a new alternator and battery. I replaced them both. I cleared the engine codes and a few days later they all came back, but it was still running fine. I changed the plugs to OEM NGK laser platinum. The plug wells had oil in them and the plugs were very sooty. I also installed a new genuine DIC at the same time. The plugs are all gapped at .09

NOW, the engine is surging and at stop lights it tends to idle at around 1100 rpm. It feels like it's hyper and wants to race. It also seems a bit more sluggish. Why would brand new plugs and DIC throw the same exact codes AND cause it to run and drive rough? It had no problems before!
TIA

Working on older cars is like working on old water pipes, you don't even see the small leaks until after you fix the big leak. Surging at stoplights / specifically at idle is usually caused by a sticky idle air motor and a good throttle body cleaning usually resolves this issue. Sooty plugs can mean bad sensor, can also mean the car needs a good long run with good gas. A little fuel cleaner like Seafoam in the tank can solve a multitude of small issues. Oil in the plug wells can cause multiple error codes and you didn't mention replacing cover gaskets. Oil in the plug wells will cause misfires when it gets deep enough and you should fix this sooner than later.

[Rochev]

Thanks for the reply. I put a can of sesfoam in it and filled it with 93. The valve cover walls were greasy and I cleaned them before changing the plugs. When I pulled the DIC again, the valve cover was greasy again so I'm thinking the gasket is junk. I took apart my old DIC and didn't see any oil in it. I'll do the gasket and clean the TB and cross my fingers.

[Rochev]

Replaced the DIC with a known working one from a friend. Still misfiring a little and has little power. Gas mileage is normal.

P0340, 1312 1334 keep coming back. I'm not sure what to do at this point. It started when I changed the plugs. But they are good and OEM. I'm considering putting the old ones back in to see how it runs

[Digger]

Not having the car handy to the Tech 2, I used the WIS troubleshooting section to run the multiple possibilities and near as I can tell from here ----- if your new plugs are getting sooty and the problem continues you either have plug connector pins 8 and or 9, or a flaky control module. No way to test from here and best suggestion it make sure your pin connects are good and ground points are good.

[geoff 9-3]

Check the earth connection for the dic.

[GeoffR]

Replaced the DIC with a known working one from a friend. Still misfiring a little and has little power. Gas mileage is normal.

P0340, 1312 1334 keep coming back. I'm not sure what to do at this point. It started when I changed the plugs. But they are good and OEM. I'm considering putting the old ones back in to see how it runs

What plugs have you fitted? Saab originally specified NGK plugs and most people find that they work best. Additionally you MUST use resistor plugs otherwise the DI Cassette won't work properly. The plug gap should probably be 1.0 mm or 1.1 mm The 9-5 Aero uses, from memory PFR6ES-11, the 11 being the plug gap in 0.1mm.

[Rochev]

Thanks everyone for the help. The pins and grounds look good. I did compare the pins to another to make sure they are the same.

I used OEM NGK laser platinum (can't remember the part number)
The sticker under my hood says .09-1.1 and I checked them before installing, all were right at .09. I suppose I could try opening them to 1.0mm?

[geoff 9-3]

Check the earth connections near the thermostat housing for the dic.

Edit.

Well could be different on a 2007 car.

[Digger]

Main is one of the few states that I've never been to, but I imagine that with an 11 year old 70K mile car you might have the same kind of problems I have in Minnesota with my 28 year old 80K mile car after sitting all winter and slimy / non shinny contacts happen somewhere in the harness every year. Even connections that look good to the eye always seem to work better after a good cleaning and your system voltage low could be good enough to clear after some voltage has flowed to clean the contacts, but there might be anything from a spade connector on a relay to a tight but not so shinny ground connection. A good cleaning can solve lots of odd issues on a car that hasn't been driven regularly.

On my vintage vehicles the good old round plug gage works fine, but not good enough for the newer vehicles as they can be quite picky about gap accuracy across all plugs and a quality feeler gage set is now my main plug gap measurement tool.

When looking for the odd problem I find cleaning everything first saves time in the long run and using a straight pin to check for loose pin sockets works well for finding loose connections in those mega pin plug connectors.