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  1. #1
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    Unhappy new to me - 2006 combi/wagon - mystery hoses - codes(dic/tran?) - and more!

    Not-so-proud owner of a new combi wagon that I fell in love with. About 20 miles off the lot, the honeymoon is over and she's asking for money. Dealer is a cool guy and will likely make good on parts or help somehow so not too worried about that. The very next start off the lot was really rough and failed. 2nd start was clean but I had multiple codes.

    p1312 - p1334 - p0340 - p1110

    I've read up and this seems that these are all related to the DIC/plugs which I'll replace together. Plugs are on the way, but if anyone has some current info on a DIC that isn't 300+ from Carquest, I'm all ears. The last code (P1110) seems related to the hooter valve, and the line from there to the firewall was toast. I replaced it as it was a few bucks and I had some 4mmID laying around, but that's not gunna fix everything obviously. It seems these codes come together very often in these cars, and if it's just fancy NGK plugs and a DIC, no big deal. I just need an excuse to tinker.

    So with these codes, I ventured off to take it back to the dealer to show him the codes once they fired again after clearing and the car lurched really hard and went into what I assume is the limp mode. (yellow gear ! icon on the tach). It also says the ESP is off, which I never messed with. Is this part of LHM safety? It also threw a 0730 code, which means "Incorrent Gear Ratio", which is another rabbit hole of issues, but I'm really curious since this can be triggered by vacuum leaks, misfires, or even a sensor, could the DIC actually trigger this and LHM? It seems logical, but hey cars are not. It just seems like it would be super bad luck to fight multiple fronts like this all at once.

    Now in daylight inspect I found some other shenannigans:

    So this hose is going nowhere. Awesome. No clue what this one is.
    https://imgur.com/a/2Ejt60t

    This hose is about this long. Pulled out for reference. (Breather?)
    https://imgur.com/a/RMbuj16

    It runs down here and is wrapped to a thicker hose.
    https://imgur.com/a/esyOrPR

    And it ends up at a part number that's the transmission. I /think/ this is just a breather for the tran, but given the code, I had to ask.
    https://imgur.com/a/kA0pZ3R


    Odd thing is most of the hoses have been swapped out for thicker silicon sans a couple (like the one I had to replace). Not sure why someone went halfway unless they were just trying to fight a different code.

    And last question: Can my code reader clear out LHM or do I need a bigger fix. I'm not going to clear until I talk to dealer obviously.

    Thanks for any advice/help before hand.

  2. #2
    Saab Enthusiast Kazamario's Avatar
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    That hose goes to the boost solenoid valve that's attached to the firewall to the left of the brake booster. It's a 3 way valve and it should connect to the left side.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Saab Addict
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    Quote Originally Posted by sumiyaka View Post
    Not-so-proud owner of a new combi wagon that I fell in love with. About 20 miles off the lot, the honeymoon is over and she's asking for money. Dealer is a cool guy and will likely make good on parts or help somehow so not too worried about that. The very next start off the lot was really rough and failed. 2nd start was clean but I had multiple codes.

    p1312 - p1334 - p0340 - p1110

    I've read up and this seems that these are all related to the DIC/plugs which I'll replace together. Plugs are on the way, but if anyone has some current info on a DIC that isn't 300+ from Carquest, I'm all ears. The last code (P1110) seems related to the hooter valve, and the line from there to the firewall was toast. I replaced it as it was a few bucks and I had some 4mmID laying around, but that's not gunna fix everything obviously. It seems these codes come together very often in these cars, and if it's just fancy NGK plugs and a DIC, no big deal. I just need an excuse to tinker.

    So with these codes, I ventured off to take it back to the dealer to show him the codes once they fired again after clearing and the car lurched really hard and went into what I assume is the limp mode. (yellow gear ! icon on the tach). It also says the ESP is off, which I never messed with. Is this part of LHM safety? It also threw a 0730 code, which means "Incorrent Gear Ratio", which is another rabbit hole of issues, but I'm really curious since this can be triggered by vacuum leaks, misfires, or even a sensor, could the DIC actually trigger this and LHM? It seems logical, but hey cars are not. It just seems like it would be super bad luck to fight multiple fronts like this all at once.
    I think much of your problem is vacuum hoses. Replace the plugs with the correct NGK plugs and a new DI Cassette (OEM not a third party copy).

    Quote Originally Posted by sumiyaka View Post
    Now in daylight inspect I found some other shenannigans:

    So this hose is going nowhere. Awesome. No clue what this one is.
    https://imgur.com/a/2Ejt60t


    That pipe should go to a solenoid valve on the bulkhead and from there to the compressor bypass valve.
    Quote Originally Posted by sumiyaka View Post
    This hose is about this long. Pulled out for reference. (Breather?)
    https://imgur.com/a/RMbuj16
    Another vacuum hose

    Quote Originally Posted by sumiyaka View Post
    It runs down here and is wrapped to a thicker hose.
    https://imgur.com/a/esyOrPR
    Looks like the one that goes to the bypass valve

    Quote Originally Posted by sumiyaka View Post
    And it ends up at a part number that's the transmission. I /think/ this is just a breather for the tran, but given the code, I had to ask.
    https://imgur.com/a/kA0pZ3R
    No clue on that one I have never owned an automatic

    Quote Originally Posted by sumiyaka View Post
    Odd thing is most of the hoses have been swapped out for thicker silicon sans a couple (like the one I had to replace). Not sure why someone went halfway unless they were just trying to fight a different code.

    And last question: Can my code reader clear out LHM or do I need a bigger fix. I'm not going to clear until I talk to dealer obviously.

    Thanks for any advice/help before hand.
    Possibly they were trying to fix something but just possibly they didn't by enough silicon hose to do the whole job. I would download a copy of WIS and EPC here http://saabworld.net/showthread.php?t=33310 before going much further and then get the vacuum hoses sorted out, any vacuum leak will cause problems with running.

  4. #4
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    Ordered a NGK DIC from RockAuto as recommended from another forum, which also didn't much want to advocate 3rd party parts. Got the NGK plugs coming as well.

    I'll just have to start here and see where it leaves me after I fix vacuum lines as well. Not even 100 miles into my ownership and I'm already playing auto parts Tetris....

    That said hopefully I'll get it running right and can resume enjoyment. I'm not even sweating the top codes. I'm more worried about the transmission code and approaching that. Hopefully it's a speed sensor or something stupid, because I'm just not sure if 120k is really "replace the whole transmission" type mileage unless the PO drove hard, but given the meticulous service record (which never included anything about spark plugs, DIC, etc) it's hard to say. If the trans fluid has never been changed? well... there we go.

  5. #5
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    Just from your photographs I would not expect the engine to run properly. You have excess air getting into the inlet manifold at idle and leaking out under boost neither of which will help with the correct air/fuel ratio. Additionally, the compressor bypass valve won't be working meaning that in overrun you have excessive pressure in the induction system which has to go somewhere and can damage the turbo.

    Plugs should be changed every 12,000 miles except the PFR6ES-11 plugs in the Aero that have a life of 24,000 miles. DI Cassettes are much better than they used to be on the 9000 but they can still fail, replacing a well used one will do no harm.

  6. #6
    Saab Enthusiast Kazamario's Avatar
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    Everything Geoff said is spot on. Shoot me a reminder this message this afternoon, and I'll snap a pic of my engine bay for you if you wish. I have blue silicone vaccum lines that pop in photos. It's still dark right now.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kazamario View Post
    Everything Geoff said is spot on. Shoot me a reminder this message this afternoon, and I'll snap a pic of my engine bay for you if you wish. I have blue silicone vaccum lines that pop in photos. It's still dark right now.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
    Any reference helps. I also found a great video here that showed me most of the lines being replaced for reference.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6kWoCzDBdg

    From GeoffR's post, the timeline and initial symptoms seem much clearer as does the issues with the DIC considering what it actually contains and how it functions. The initial cutting out of the engine happened directly after an idle and after it got warm. Further down the road the warning from the transmission that the engine is doing "something" after a complete power drop again follwed by "go kart" mode. I've talked with a friend, a mechanic, and he's onboard with the fact that the transmission code could be directly related thanks to the DIC , which contains the Cam sensor and can cause a shift to fail and/or the power drops if they were from the vacuum. While concerning, anything with the transmission code-wise has to be taken with a grain of salt until the engine codes are sorted, because it could have simply got stuck in a gear or just thrown that single code that's a bit generic in panic. Yes, that part is a lot of wishful thinking, but most of this will clear up with silicone and the incoming parts.

  8. #8
    Saab Enthusiast Kazamario's Avatar
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    That channel is solid, sounds like you got most of it sorted!

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

  9. #9
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    Dealer is making good on parts since I did all the research and will do all the labor until I get those codes passing. Total win for everyone really, and now honestly I'm glad it happened right off the bat rather than 3-4 weeks from now where I'd foot the bill. I stopped by on the way to work today and did a few quick pictures to send him and then cleared the codes. Sealed that top line with new cable as well. Gear warning didn't come back on and I putted around the parking lot for a min. No point in stomping it until I get the other parts, but it's some relief that the gearbox didn't come back on immediately or just remain stuck. It does seem that the ESP turns itself off when that tran limp mode triggers cause it's toggling as it should again.

    So minor progress and my order from Rock Auto should be here Monday. Here's fingers and toes crossed that I get to take this beast down I-20 soon

 

 

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