2006 9-5 2.3t tensioner noise/rattle

[GeoffR]

Well it turns out WIS isn't very helpful on this except that the long belt seems to have been discontinued.

[BeardedFool]

The long belt is around. The hardest thing is that most auto parts stores rely on thier computer to decide what goes where. And sadly thier computers are lacking info. After calling every parts store chain within 2 cities all around me, I could not locate the grooved idler pulley that goes above the tensioner pulley. It simply did not exist or the parts stores that said they had it... It would not work due to the inside diameter of the bearing in the pulley being to small to fit.

Earlier in this thread (one page back) is a link (which I will post here again) that gives the step by step. On the 3rd or 4th page of this link, someone posted the part numbers of the belt and pulleys including the pulley on the tensioner itself. Taking the part numbers to the parts store, they cross referenced the numbers and low and behold... All of the parts are available and in stock.

Heres that link again even though it's just a few posts before mine...
http://saabworld.net/showthread.php?t=712

[BeardedFool]

So, I got the pulleys replaced and the tensioner as well. Ended up buying the Gates tensioner off of Amazon for about $100 less than any of the local parts stores wanted, even for the same make and model of tensioner. A couple of key notes that I didnt see in other postings (or missed) are as follows. Yes the square port for a 1/2" ratchet extension was indeed tapered. I was able to remove the old tensioner using a 24" breaker bar with a 1/2" end. But the new tensioner would only allow that about 3/8" in (less than half way). I ran to parts store and bought a 5" extension and took it to my bench grinder. In less than a minute, I had ground the ball flat and put enough of a taper that it fit loosely yet had a secure grip. When the tensioner shipped, it had a temporary pin holding it just as you might use a hex key to hold the tension off in order to replace the belt. However once it was installed, there wasnt enough room to release the tension and pull the pin. I had to remive the tensioner and put it in a vise on my work bench, use the breaker bar and extension to relieve tension and remove that pin. Now... In order to reinstall the tensioner, I had to remove the upper left (grooved) idler pulley as the tensioner pulley was too close . Maybe I just didn't have it lined up right because there was enough clearance to put the idler pulley back on but having it off gave me more room to get my fat hands into the tiny space to install the tensioner. Once that was done I was easily able to get the belt routed and installed using the tensiiner pulley and upper left idler pulley as my last 2 pulleys to get the belt on.

Seems a little quieter and the tensioner doesn't shake and shimmy while the engine is running like it did before.

[BeardedFool]

Had a mechanic give the car a listen to and he said to release the tension to see if the noise goes away. If it does, its likely the water pump. I released the tension and the noise did go away. So I just finished with the water pump and its still noisy. All thats left are A/C compressor, power steering pump, alternator, or crack shaft pulley. I dont want to just be replacing everything so I'm wondering what's next in line as the most likely source of noise when belt in under tension but quickly goes away when I release the tension on the belt???