AC problems

[sillysaabowner]

The first thing we did was fix the blend doors and blend arms. We replaced motors because of broken gear and a bad diode. This fixed the heat issue on driver, passenger and rear/backseat. Then, we checked all the fuses and relays and swapped. We filled with 3 ounces of leak stop and O-ring conditioner. a couple of ounces of dye to check for leaks, none found. The compressor came on for a split second. We added two - 12-ounce cans which equal 680 grams of 134a. Ran through the system. Dye was introduced to the system at the low-pressure port was circulated through the system a small amount was purge out of the high-pressure port located in front of the radiator. AC lines were checked for leaks via a black light...none found.

We still have error codes 8 and 11. Wondering if this is our problem? Any help would be appreciated.

[Biggsjam21]

There's a link on here for all the acc codes and meanings. If you've replaced all that you shouldn't be getting those same codes. And the compressor coming on for only a split second is your culprit. I'm no REAL MECHANIC but I know when you turn on the ac the car should make the smallest of alil more vibration, indicating that the compressor is working and spinning with with serpentine belt. Turn on ac and pop the hood if not spinning you need to replace compressor. And for the 8 and 11 codes maybe try to do the self calibration a few times in a row. My problem was the heater bypass valve, which are known to go but fairly easy to replace took me about 20min and some coolant.
Let us know the outcome!!

[Digger]

Bad clutches are more common than bad compressors. Your clutch kicks in, but doesn't stay, so jump the sensor at the connector and if the clutch drops out check the clutch. Don't leave jumped longer than you need to for testing. Without the benefit of real AC tools, a paper clip is the best way to find out if your AC will blow cold. Use the paperclip to bypass the low pressure sensor when the engine is running and if the clutch kicks in and if one line gets hot and the other one cold, you should have cold air in the car.

Codes are great for helping to chase down climate control issues when you know that your system can make cold air

Two - 12-ounce cans may equal 680 grams, but you also need to subtract the unknown amount lost to the line when cans are attached and removed. Back in the day of checking head pressures, adding 12oz cans worked to restore a proper charge, but AC systems of this millennium have become very sensitive to charge volume and over charging can turn a small problem into a costly repair. The only way to properly charge the newer high efficiency systems is to evacuate the entire system and use a digital scale to charge by weight and the best way to weigh is to use a larger tank. I still do it the old school way on older cars with my gage set and 12oz cans. When I use my gage set at home to check head pressures on newer cars, the 12oz can is to replace the know the line loss of my gage set and I don't recommend the head pressure method.

UV dye is great for finding major leaks, but it could take months to accumulate enough UV marker to find a small oozing leak with a light, if the leak is where it can be seen. Freon detectors are just one of todays tools and todays tools aren't cheap. Stop leak messes with todays tools and when using leak stop doesn't fix your problem, it creates an additional problem of getting a shop to service your AC system.

[sillysaabowner]

Hi guys, hope everyone is having a great day! So I pulled the driver's side panels off and checked to make sure that the blend door arms that were previously installed were still intact and working, inspected the blend door to make sure it was operational and removed the motor took it apart to make sure that it was in working order with gears, etc. Everything checked out to be fine. I reinstalled only to the point of attaching with one screw and not attaching the vent, foam or sensor. Stupid question, maybe, do I need to reinstall those items in order for the code to clear? The 8 and 11 error codes are primarily for no flap contact I believe but wondering if the code won't clear because of the sensor not being reinstalled. If the compressor is not engaging would that cause an 8/11? I have done pretty well with fixing a relay for the lights with solder, removing and repairing the window buttons to make contact but this acc system has me clueless.

[sillysaabowner]

awesome sounds like I will check this out with help from a friend, I am good but not that good lol. The next step is obviously all of these items. The car does vibrate but I originally thought it was just from the fans, not the compressor. The one line in on passenger side is cold and the other hot. I have heat to all areas when switching from floor to defrost. Just no AC. So looks like a major pain in the #$% is headed my way! check the compressor, evacuate the system and punt. Thank you!

[sillysaabowner]

Biggsjam21, thanks, funny that you mention the heater bypass, that was one of the first things that I had to replace when I purchased. The coolant was leaking and I traced that back to the valve and replaced it, along with the DIC. fun times.

[Digger]

Sounds like you are really getting into this and going at it in an organized manner so I almost hate to ask, but as you still have codes and haven't mentioned it, did you reprogram the ac after replacing your broken motor?

[sillysaabowner]

Digger, hi if you mean auto/off recalibrate then yes more times than I want to admit. I am trying to find someone with a tech 2 to actually go and clear those codes. I am not sure if that will work but I would like to at least try since everything that I can tell looks like it’s working under the dash.

[Digger]

Digger, hi if you mean auto/off recalibrate then yes more times than I want to admit. I am trying to find someone with a tech 2 to actually go and clear those codes. I am not sure if that will work but I would like to at least try since everything that I can tell looks like it’s working under the dash.

That is what I was wondering and a Tech 2 will give you the ability to test every part of the system, even fire the ac clutch and play with sensor temp values, but for resetting things like this a Tech 2 isn't absolutely necessary. Saabs do have their own software, but they also have a lot of standard GM parts and there are plenty of repair shops that won't touch a Saab because of the cost of adding Saab software to their test sets.
Trivial and useless information it is, but knowing this might help some day, maybe even today because this is a 15 year old car and the up to date GM software that cost a small fortune 10 years ago is now standard load on new bi directional scan tools. With any kind of luck, your ac control is a standard GM part and could be accessible by every new profession grade scan tool.

[sillysaabowner]

The saga continues...so crazy idea and maybe someone here will know. The 15a fuse in the drivers side door slot 20 is for the acc/rear fog lights/interior lights. Since the fuse checks out and looks good, we checked with meter to make sure it was ok, we then checked relay under the hood, multimeter says good, we already swapped to check to make sure relay was good, my question is this and it may make sense or not, when I purchased the car I noticed cut wires in the trunk, rear for light never worked, didn’t care and really didn’t give it much thought until now. I just exposed the wires and the gu had definitely been in there making a repairs a few times for cut wires. The severed ones I am going to repair today, I am wondering if this wiring is sending a negative feed back to the fuse or not making a full circuit that it need to make the acc system work properly. Please someone come forward and tell me yes or you’re just nuts 🤔😂