Results 1 to 10 of 14
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18 June 2019 #1
- Join Date
- 13 Jun 2019
- Location
- Colorado
- Posts
- 112
- Saab(s)
- 1999 9-5 wagon
What is this part and why is it loose???
I have been searching all over the web and these forums and I'm missing it or overlooked the answer. I have a 1999 9-5 wagon with the turbo 4cylinder. Coming off of the turbo intake pipe is a pipe that goes to a check valve before going to the intake of the throttle body. Only description I can find is "pipe" from checking parts from a diagram on this page...
https://www.esaabparts.com/viewparts...tion=311043488
Part number 1 in that diagram.
So here's my question. Should that pipe be loose? I can wiggle it and even turn it a little where it connects the the turbo intake pipe. Maybe it just needs a new o-ring in there.
Can't hear if theres air leaking as I have a lot of noise and I am about to tackle a new serpentine belt, belt tensioner, and idler pulleys. I hope that quiets the engine. But it is throwing up a p0300 error code (random misfire) and I dont know if this is causing the issue or if it has anything to do with all of the plastic parts for the air intake being cracked from an apparent front end collision, or if its something else entirely.
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18 June 2019 #2
- Join Date
- 10 May 2019
- Location
- UK
- Posts
- 17
- Saab(s)
- '99 9-3 Convertible, '05 9-5 Aero
Not sure what it's official name is either. Leads up to the diverter valve on the right.
Anyhoo, no. Should be rock solid. Or at least it is on my '05. If you need any more pics give me a shout.
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18 June 2019 #3
- Join Date
- 10 Apr 2017
- Location
- Denham, England
- Posts
- 541
- Saab(s)
- 2011 2.0 9-5 Aero
That "check valve" is the compressor bypass valve and is actuated by inlet manifold vacuum. The valve opens when the throttle is closed to allow compressor outlet air to recirculate to the inlet and thus the turbo rotor to maintain speed. It also prevents reverse flow through the compressor. (Some times, incorrectly, called a Dump valve)
The pipe shouldn't be loose, but you might note the bolt head in the image in the post above and ensure that it is tight.
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18 June 2019 #4
- Join Date
- 13 Jun 2019
- Location
- Colorado
- Posts
- 112
- Saab(s)
- 1999 9-5 wagon
Assuming that the bolt is tight and that there's nothing wrong with the tube or pipe, my next thought is simply replacing the o-ring in there. I am planning a trip to the auto parts store today but was unable to have any luck with them over the phone and think maybe I could just remove the pipe/tube and bring it with me to match up a new o-ring. Would it cause any damage for me to just leave it opened while I run out for about an hour?
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18 June 2019 #5
- Join Date
- 10 Apr 2017
- Location
- Denham, England
- Posts
- 541
- Saab(s)
- 2011 2.0 9-5 Aero
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18 June 2019 #6
- Join Date
- 13 Jun 2019
- Location
- Colorado
- Posts
- 112
- Saab(s)
- 1999 9-5 wagon
Sorry. I shoild have been more specific. I will be leaving the saab at home and possibly on Jack stands and driving a different vehicle. It is humid and raining off and on so I didnt kniw if leaving it open for humidity to get in there would cause an issue. But the saab will not be running while the pipe is removed.
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18 June 2019 #7
- Join Date
- 10 May 2019
- Location
- UK
- Posts
- 17
- Saab(s)
- '99 9-3 Convertible, '05 9-5 Aero
I can't see that being a problem.
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18 June 2019 #8
- Join Date
- 10 Apr 2017
- Location
- Denham, England
- Posts
- 541
- Saab(s)
- 2011 2.0 9-5 Aero
Unless you plan on parking it outside with the bonnet (hood) open it won’t come to any harm.
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18 June 2019 #9
- Join Date
- 10 May 2019
- Location
- UK
- Posts
- 17
- Saab(s)
- '99 9-3 Convertible, '05 9-5 Aero
There's a real echo in here
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19 June 2019 #10
- Join Date
- 13 Jun 2019
- Location
- Colorado
- Posts
- 112
- Saab(s)
- 1999 9-5 wagon
Okay. Took the pipe out and the o-ring seemed more like a plastic washer thank a rubber o-ring. It was greasy as hell. Found the right size in a kit of o-rings. Put it back together and it is a little more solid hiwever there is still movement but I think that is caused by the plastic tube that runs to the throttle body. There is a peice of plastic that bolts to the engine to keep it from moving but it is cracked. Just one of the many many cracked plast parts cause from a front end crash. I plan on some no e yard shoppi g inthe near future to try to replace them.
I havent had the chance to fire up the motor as I'm in the middle of the serpentine belt, pulley, and tensioner replacement. With luck, I will have it all back together tomorrow and be able to fire up the motor.
Next thing is to try to locate a red plastic clip that holds the brake booster vacuum line into the brake booster vacuum pump. When I picked up the car, the brakes were hard to push. The guy I bought it from thought it was the master cylinder. Turns out that the vacuum line wasn't attached to either the throttle body or the vacuum pump. Plugged in the line and niw brakes are fixed but since it doesnt have that red clip thing, the line can slide right out of the vacuum pump. I know I could strap or tape it up to hold but I want it fixed right
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