Dashboard warning lights???

[BeardedFool]

I constantly have "brakes", "ABS", and the triangle with "!" In it. No error codes and no traction control lights... Just those 3. Most posts I see say the 3 I mentioned AND something to do with traction control. Dont know if its the same issue or not but what ive found is either bad sensors, bad abs module, or blown fuse. Any other thoughts?

1999 9-5 wagon 2.3l 4cyl

[BeardedFool]

Oh yeah... Another question unrelated. Car has not run in over 2 hours but while I was wiggling wire harness for turn signals right next to headlights, the cooling fan kicked in and the keys were nit in the ignition. I had them on my pocket occasionally hitting the unlock button to get the signals to flash. Any clue what might cause that?

[swisssaabist]

Generally you have two culprits in that case, could be the Abs module on it's way out (could be repaired or exchanged) you can taking out the module and be able to drive without waiting for.
could be one the ABS sensor or the ABS ring broken in axle shaft , Anyway i'ts not really hard to resolve the issue.

[BeardedFool]

Finally going to take title to courthouse to take care of title transfer and registration this morning. After that I will take a look at the sensors.first I will check resistance with my multimeter. Trying to find images or videos for locations but I'm curious if by "abs ring" if you are referring to the teeth on the axle that the sensor measures?

[GeoffR]

Finally going to take title to courthouse to take care of title transfer and registration this morning. After that I will take a look at the sensors.first I will check resistance with my multimeter. Trying to find images or videos for locations but I'm curious if by "abs ring" if you are referring to the teeth on the axle that the sensor measures?

The most likely cause is a broken reluctor ring and you won't find that with a multimeter unfortunately. That is what Bruno has called the ABS ring.

[BeardedFool]

Been watching vids and stuff and have seen what appears to be "teeth" like on a gear that is part of the axle. That is was the sensor detects as it rotates. Just disnt know if the ring was sevicable or if it would mean replacement of the axles if that is indeed the cause.
With this car, I have been finding all sort of minor issues such as vacuum lines being disconnected. Almost as if someone intentionally messed with the car. Most of the stuff in and around the engine are covered in black oil dirt and grease. So I suspect a bad sensor or even a disconnected sensor more than anything. But its definitely a "project" car. I just want to get the main things dealt with before I bring it in for emissions testing so that I can get license plates and be street legal. After that, I can work on all of the stuff that I call "cosmetic" such at hood and rear hatch hydrolics (that back hatch feels twice as heavy as the hood), and oddities such as rapidly flashing left turn signal. No bulbs out but if I put on the hazards, the left front blinker blinks out of sequence of the other blinkers.

[GeoffR]

Been watching vids and stuff and have seen what appears to be "teeth" like on a gear that is part of the axle. That is was the sensor detects as it rotates. Just didn't know if the ring was serviceable or if it would mean replacement of the axles if that is indeed the cause.

No axles on a 9-5, they are drive shafts. What you describe is a reluctor ring, they crack and if the ring isn't a continuous loop they stop working because there isn't a magnetic circuit. Cracking is fairly common.

The rear hatch gas struts are in the roof, never changed one but you will need to support the hatch while you change them. Hood struts are easy and the hood is easier to support than the hatch, a 5 minute job with a small screw driver.

[GeoffR]

Oh yeah... Another question unrelated. Car has not run in over 2 hours but while I was wiggling wire harness for turn signals right next to headlights, the cooling fan kicked in and the keys were nit in the ignition. I had them on my pocket occasionally hitting the unlock button to get the signals to flash. Any clue what might cause that?

That's not unknown, the heat soaks through the cooling system and the fans cut in. There is a note in the hand book about it.

[BeardedFool]

As far as my abs module goes, ive contacted a local mechanic that has a great reputation of being a "saab guy" and said he wouldnt charge me to hook up a scanner to see if the module is communicating. But he said that if its not, iits better to get a used module from one of his suppliers and have it programmed than to send it out to be fixed. Now ive also seen a YouTube video of aome guy opening his own module and fixing the broken solder points. Ive done some minor circuit board work in the past and might be willing to give it a try. Has anyone e else ever attempted this?

[Digger]

As far as my abs module goes, ive contacted a local mechanic that has a great reputation of being a "saab guy" and said he wouldnt charge me to hook up a scanner to see if the module is communicating. But he said that if its not, iits better to get a used module from one of his suppliers and have it programmed than to send it out to be fixed. Now ive also seen a YouTube video of aome guy opening his own module and fixing the broken solder points. Ive done some minor circuit board work in the past and might be willing to give it a try. Has anyone e else ever attempted this?

Done it and if you can see the obviously bad soldier joint it works every time. Seldom works if you can't see the bad connection, way to often these things are still fixable and with the right tools you can replace the ABS relay, but this is a 20 year old car and who knows what you will find. Way to many times cars this old don't get a proper brake bleed when the brake lines are opened and the valve section eventually gets filled with air leaving the ABS pump running continuously until it fries. This, just like a bad ground will give you RED BRAKE, YELLOW ABS and the traction light on cars so equipped. Common the cure doesn't work people pull fuses, or cut wires to turn off the pump because they can't fix the problem, or afford to have it fixed.

Before you go spending money on a good used part, check for power and ground at the controller, the 2 pin plug. If you have no power give the brakes a proper bleeding and restore power or ground, you risk $10 in brake fluid and you might just find you have a good part.