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  1. #1
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    2005 9-3 Aero 5 speed manual
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    2005 9-3 Aero died while driving

    2005 9-3 Aero 2.0 wouldn't start after filling up on Wednesday afternoon waited 20 minutes and got her started Drove home with the check engine light on. Battery was low, put a new one on and problem solved.

    Next day driving home from work it shut off like I turned the key off and it wouldn't let me turn the key to "lock" and remove it. Waited awhile and once again she started and drove home with the check engine light on.

    Today checked the battery and alternator, both were good. Let it idle up to temp, no issues, so I went for a little drive and 5 minutes from the house it shut off and will not start.

    Waited another 20 minutes and she fired right up and drove back home with no warning lights on. Now she's idling in the garage like nothing ever happened.

    Nevermind, just died again.

    What the hell?

    Any ideas?



    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

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  2. #2
    Saab Owner Digger's Avatar
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    2006 9-3 2.0t SportCombi
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    Several ideas for this irritating little problem and every one of them comes with questions that need to be answered. Starting with starting and restarting, which could be the security immobilizer, and everything under the sun.

    Does the key always remain in the stuck when the car stalls?


    If not, when it does not want to start will the fob turn in the switch?


    When it stalls and won't restart does pulling small fuse 2 in the under hood electrical center get you going instantly?


    Do you get any notices in the display?


    Does using the fob to lock and unlock the doors get the car to accept the fob and let you start the car?

    Several things more questions later if the answerer to all these questions is NO

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  3. #3
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    2005 9-3 Aero 5 speed manual
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    Thanks for the reply, I tried to answer your questions the best I could.

    Does the key always remain in the stuck when the car stalls? No, it stays stuck for a few rotations and then goes back to normal, but will not start until we sit for about 20 minutes.


    If not, when it does not want to start will the fob turn in the switch? Yes it will turn


    When it stalls and won't restart does pulling small fuse 2 in the under hood electrical center get you going instantly? Do you mean F2? That one is for the starter since when I pulled it the starter wouldn't turn.


    Do you get any notices in the display? When the key is stuck I get a stability control and a traction control notice. I also occasionally get a battery not charging notice, but when I checked the battery was at 13.7.


    Does using the fob to lock and unlock the doors get the car to accept the fob and let you start the car? Trying that made no difference.

    EDIT:

    Watched some youtube videos and got into looking at the CPS and noticed the tach didn't move when trying to start after it shut off.

    Going to replace that and see if that solves it, but still not sure about the stability and traction control notices.

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    Last edited by ron73440; 3 Weeks Ago at 19:04. Reason: More troubleshooting was done

  4. #4
    Saab Owner Digger's Avatar
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    F2 is the little 10amp fuse that supplies power to the ECU, pulling and replacing will reset the ECU.

    The CPS is a common problem and bad or not replacing is a smart thing to do. They will give you the problem you described and they are quite often intermittent before they fail completely.

    Ignition locking is affected by ABS brake problems and it has to be an undocumented software thing as when my rear sensor wire broke is disabled my steering wheel lock causing it not to lock. Thinking that this might be useful should my steering lock ever fail and not unlock as it should, I went through the wiring diagrams looking for a point that could be jumped or opened as a quick way to bypass and found none. You should have a nearly completely broken sensor wire and as you have the opposite problem of locking I would suspect a shorting wire and not an open. Most likely point is a rear wheel sensor where the cable is strapped tight to the suspension with a cable tie, about a foot from the wheel hub.

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  5. #5
    Saab Fan
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    2005 9-3 Aero 5 speed manual
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    Thanks for the info.

    I have a pattern figured out: from a cold start it runs about 30 minutes and dies. Ignition will not turn back to off, traction and stability errors appear. Rotate the key a few times it unlocks and the stability and traction errors disappear. Wait 20 minutes and ti starts and runs like normal, but check engine light is on.

    Would the CPS throw the traction and stability errors?

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  6. #6
    Saab Owner Digger's Avatar
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    CPS won't give you a traction control failure, but the ABS module will.

    Now that you have a pattern figured out its time to get hooked up to a Tech 2 because this is a multiple problem, or one problem with multiple affects, or both and you could throw a lot of parts at this and accomplish nothing if you have a control module that doesn't appear bad because it keeps the I or O bus so busy getting its job done that the other parts don't get a chance to do what they need to.

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  7. #7
    Saab Fan
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    2005 9-3 Aero 5 speed manual
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    Quote Originally Posted by Digger View Post
    CPS won't give you a traction control failure, but the ABS module will.

    Now that you have a pattern figured out its time to get hooked up to a Tech 2 because this is a multiple problem, or one problem with multiple affects, or both and you could throw a lot of parts at this and accomplish nothing if you have a control module that doesn't appear bad because it keeps the I or O bus so busy getting its job done that the other parts don't get a chance to do what they need to.
    I don't have a Tech 2, I will probably buy one if this doesn't fix it.

    I am going to replace the CPS Saturday and go over the ABS wires, remove the module and clean the contacts.

    Thanks for the help.

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  8. #8
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    2005 9-3 Aero 5 speed manual
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    Quote Originally Posted by Digger View Post
    CPS won't give you a traction control failure, but the ABS module will.
    Replaced the CPS Saturday. I tried to do it from the top, like it said in the Chilton manual, but could not mange it. (Scratched the hell out of my forearms trying)

    After watching YouTube, I jacked it up and took the starter off. Still a tight fight, but manageable. A little Vaseline and a lot of wiggling and pushing was required. Hooked the wire up, reinstalled the starter and hooked the battery back up.

    After checking the voltage on the battery I turned the key and let it do the check.

    No errors and fired right up. I have been driving all week and haven't seen the stability or traction errors once, so maybe they can be caused by the CPS? I didn't do anything to the ABS, only thing changed is the CPS.

    Thanks again for the help.

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