2006+ Fuel pump replacement - tank removal method for US/CA spec cars

[Yamarocket630]

-Yes, you can cut up your floor to enlarge the access hole. Please don't do this. Its a hack job. Removing the tank isn't that hard. You got this.

You need simple hand tools including a 10mm socket, ratchet and longer 10-12" extension, a 7mm 1/4 drive socket, ratchet, and long 10"+ extension, a long 1/2" ratchetbor breaker bar, a floor jack, 4 or more jack stands, inverted torx sockets, and a lock ring tool for the pump.

Difficulty: 3 out of 5. Its more daunting than difficult.

Time: 4 to 6 hours. It took me a bit over 4 but i did a few other things at the same time.

Background in case you dont know... for 2006 until the end of production, the US/CA spec OG 9-5 got a redesigned tank and fuel pump. The pump is very similar to the 9-3SS with permanently attached fuel lines that go down to the outside bottom of the tank and the redesigned tank doesn't line the pump up with the access hole to make removal with the tank in situ possible. The new style pump also uses the same fuel level sensor as the 9-3 which is prone to failure.

Pull the fuel pump fuse with the engine running and let the engine stall. This will relieve the pressure in the system.

If possible, do this job with the tank as close to empty as you can get. Like low fuel light on for 3 days empty.

Step 1 is to jack up your car. Seriously, get it as high as you can, front and rear, all 4 tires off the ground. Use jack stands to support the car.

Remove the rear section of the exhaust. Soaking the nuts the day before in penetrating oil might help keep the studs from breaking, but IME if they're going to break no amount of penetrating oil will help. Some people say you can just lower the exhaust, but it will make the job much harder if you do. Remove it and get it completely out of the way. You might snap off the exhaust studs. If you do, you can drill/hammer out the broken studs from the flange and just replace them with bolts and nuts. Even if you have to replace both of them it will still save you time vs fighting the tank out and back in around the exhaust.

Remove the rear wheels. While this isn't strictly necessary, it will make dealing with the parking brake cables easier and allows a bit more light under the car.

Remove the parking brake lever springs from the rear brake backing plates. Obviously the parking brake should be off first. The springs are pretty weak and you can get them off with needle nose pliers or a small flat blade screwdriver.

Remove the parking brake cables from the levers. Pull the cables out of the support brackets on the rear control arms.

Remove the small heat sheild that is between the fuel tank heat sheild and the larger heat sheild on the body. All the other heat sheilds can stay in place.

Remove the single bolt that holds the fuel filler tube to the body. It's an inverted torx, but in a pinch you can use a 12 point socket. You own an OG9-5... you need inverted torx sockets, just go buy some.

Remove the small vent line connection to the filler tube. You'll need a quick connect tool like these:



If you have access to compressed air, blow out the line connection before attempting to use the tool. Dirt and grit buildup will make it much harder to get apart.

Remove the fuel feed and return lines and the EVAP vacuum line. All 3 of them are near the charcoal canister on the right front of the tank. Again blow out the connections first. You'll need the same quick connect tools. Dont be directly under the fuel lines, they will drip fuel for a while.


Open the access plate under the rear seat. Swear at GM for redesigning the tank. Unplug the inline connector from the body harness. This is the connector near the fuel pump that only plugs into the tank harness, it doesn't connect directly to the pump. The tank harness will come out with the tank.

Loosen but dont remove the rear tank strap bolts. Support the tank with a floor jack and block of wood. Remove the front tank strap bolts. lower the tank slightly and let it slide forward.

Now you can almost get to the clamp holding the filler neck to the tank. You're going to be tempted to just cut the small section of rubber hose and replace it later. DONT DO IT. The hose is NLA and a section of radiator hose, while it would fit, isn't fuel compatible.

With the tank dropped and slid forward slightly, use a 1/4 drive 7mm socket and long extension to loosen the clamp. This part isn't fun. It sucks. Be patient, move the tank this way and that way, you'll eventually get it. On reassembly you can position the clamp to make it MUCH easier to tighten. The tank went in before the rear sub-frame at the factory so they oriented it in a position that was easy for them.

While lowering the tank, the purge valve is going to want to get hung up on the rear sway bar. Be careful not to break it.

Once the clamp is loose, use a small prybar or long screwdriver to work the filler neck hose off the tank. After 17 years mine wasn't stuck on too badly. You might also be able to grab the hose with some groove joint pliers and work it back and forth if it is stuck. Once it starts to move, you should be able to pull the filler neck back easily to disconnect it.

Jack the tank back up most of the way so that it cant fall. Remove the tank straps completely and move the parking brake cables out of the way.

If you have a helper, now is when you need them. Lower the tank while guiding it to keep from damaging the purge valve. Watch out for the fuel lines as they will try to get hung up as well.

Once the tank is on the ground, slide it out from under the car.



If you have compressed air, blow off the top of the tank and the fuel pump.

Now you need a fuel pump lock ring tool. Search for "6599 lock ring tool" on your favorite Chinese goods website. You can get one like this for under $20USD.



Dont be tempted by this adjustable version that is slightly cheaper. It sucks and you will regret buying it.



The lock ring takes a good bit of force to release. What I found works best is to use a long 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar. Pull on the ratchet with one hand and use the other hand to "bump" like you're trying to break loose a stuck bolt. The lock ring only needs to turn a few degrees and it will happen all at once.

There are a couple more quick connect lines you need to release next. They will be pretty obvious.

Now pull the pump out of the tank slowly. Fuel is going to go everywhere so be prepared with something to wipe it up with. As you pull the pump out, you'll see there is a black line attached to the under side if the pump from inside the tank. This line is long enough that you can CAREFULLY completely remove the pump unit to access this line.

It attaches here:



It uses a Ford "horse shoe" style fuel line clip to hold it in place. I suggest buying an assortment ahead of time because it's in a terrible location and you will probably break the clip.



Once this line is off, the pump is free and you can replace it as a complete unit, or just replace the pump motor and/or level sensor. Do keep in mind that the fuel filter is part of this unit and cant be replaced. Also all the lines are plastic and must be heated to be removed and reinstalled. Its best to just replace the complete unit IMO. You can currently get an Orio branded unit for $198USD.

Installation as they say, is the reverse of removal.

A few tips:

Be careful to get the fuel pump seal correctly seated. You dont want a leak here because that will mean doing the whole job again.

Put the rear of the tank into position first and get the filler neck attached before putting the tank fully into position.

Hang the rear muffler from the 2 rear most hangers, and then have a helper hold the front up or use something like a bucket to support the exhaust while lining it up and bolting it to the flex pipe.

Dont forget to reinstall the fuel pump fuse!