Oil Pressure Switch - hopefully an easy one.

[impalax327]

Hi all.
I'm looking to replace the pesky oil pressure switch on my 2.0t 9-5.
Can't find a part number in the EPC or WIS but my local parts store says it's the same part for both 2.0 and 2.3 and the same for a 9-3 or 9-5. It's the one with the yellow wire and plug (same as pictured in the tutorial).
Just wondering if anyone can clarify?
Cheers!

[Mjollnir81]

Indeed. Same switch. Not the easiest to replace but not the worst. You have to replace it from under the car. The wiring that connects to the starter and alternator has to be removed and pushed aside. It’s chained together. Starter has to be removed from bell housing but can be laid aside. Then you have access to switch. New switch is probably not the same size but but the same size threads. I used an OXY sensor socket (7/8”) worked but a tad loose to install new one. Old one I cut the wire and used deep socket to remove. Two beer job.

[impalax327]

Thanks for confirming that. In all the eBay listings I saw they looked the same so I figured they were.
Already have those beers on ice!
Cheers.

[GeoffR]

Indeed. Same switch. Not the easiest to replace but not the worst. You have to replace it from under the car. The wiring that connects to the starter and alternator has to be removed and pushed aside. It’s chained together. Starter has to be removed from bell housing but can be laid aside. Then you have access to switch. New switch is probably not the same size but but the same size threads. I used an OXY sensor socket (7/8”) worked but a tad loose to install new one. Old one I cut the wire and used deep socket to remove. Two beer job.

A 7/8 socket would be loose, the switch has a metric hex. If you’re going to work on Saabs it is a good idea to get a metric socket set. Cutaway sockets aren’t expensive, even if you expect to use them only once.

[Mjollnir81]

7/8 is like half a mm off of 23 I think or 24mm. I only used it as it was all I could find in my area and the original was either 24 or 25mm.

[GeoffR]

7/8 is like half a mm off of 23 I think or 24mm. I only used it as it was all I could find in my area and the original was either 24 or 25mm.

Od course you used a torque wrench to get the switch properly tightened didn't you?

[impalax327]

A 24mm O2 sensor socket is perfect for this kind of thing and a must have in any toolkit.

Geoff, any idea of the torque setting on these? Can't find a thing in WIS. My guess is real tight + 1/3?

[GeoffR]

A 24mm O2 sensor socket is perfect for this kind of thing and a must have in any toolkit.

Geoff, any idea of the torque setting on these? Can't find a thing in WIS. My guess is real tight + 1/3?

No idea but I suspect over tightening may have some bearing on why they leak. If in doubt there is some guidance in WIS but it is well hidden.

It is well hidden, the only information I could find was for the 4 cylinder Diesel engine where the torque is 30Nm 22lbf.

[impalax327]

Thanks Geoff. That sounds about right.
Reading up on generic fitting on other makes and models they seem to suggest hand tight then nipped up snug. 30Nm should do it.
Thanks for your insight as always.

[GeoffR]

When I started work (1971) aircraft electrical connections were commonly made to terminal blocks consisting of 4BA studs set in hard plastic, wires had ring tags on the end, we used a torque spinner (like a screwdriver with a 6BA hex socket on the end) to get them seated correctly. One day I had a Trident Generator Control Unit to change, I let the apprentice do the actual work, all was well until he sheared a stud on a terminal block by inattention. I ended up doing the job as the second replacement was the last spare we had at the time. Since then I have pretty much always taken care not to overtighten anything. That also explains why I have no fewer than five torque wrenches.

Some time later the same apprentice sheared a screw on a 737 escape slide light cover, which was a bit more serious as the casing was riveted to the aircraft skin and a fairly serious piece of work in terms of down time.

The point is that one person's "real tight" differs from another's. We decided this particular apprentice should move to another work area where, hopefully, he learned some caution. If in doubt, read the manual, all of it if necessary.