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  1. #1
    Saab Nut
    Join Date
    02 Aug 2010
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    Saab 9-5 Crankshaft Position Sensor - CPS

    Information from the Saab WIS:

    To remove


    1. Undo the exhaust manifold heat shield.

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    2. Undo the screw securing the heat shield and sensor.

    3. Detach the sensor and O-ring.

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    4. Follow the sensor connecting cable and undo the clip on the water pipe.

    5. Detach the connector from the holder.

    6. Unplug the connector.

    7. Change the sensor.

    To fit

    1. Fit the sensor provisionally so that the cable runs along the water pipe. Change the O-ring if necessary and lubricate it with engine oil.

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    2. Spray the connector with Kontakt 61 (part no. 30 04 520), press together the connector and fit it in the holder.

    3. Secure the cables with the retaining clip. Take care not to pinch or damage the cables with the clip.

    4. Press in the sensor and screw it on with the O-ring fitted together with the heat shield. Make sure the O-ring is positioned correctly so that the sensor bottoms in the engine block. Otherwise, there is a risk of the sensor mounting lug breaking off.

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    5. Lubricate the screw for the exhaust manifold heat shield with Molykote 1000 or equivalent (part no. 30 20 271) and fit the heat shield.

    Tightening torque, nut, heat shield 20 Nm (15 lbf ft)

    6. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

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    Last edited by nordwulf; 08 November 2010 at 16:45.

  2. #2
    Saab Fan
    Join Date
    08 Jul 2013
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    28
    Saab(s)
    2002 9-5 2.3L Linear Turbo
    Thumbs Up:   0
    Getting the Torx30 screw out proved to be a very difficult task. In order to get the bit into the screw correctly, there's only a limited amount of room before you run into the downpipe. I tried a flexible ratcheting extension, an elbow extension, and neither worked as I couldn't get the bit to stay in the screw head. After three days, the only thing that worked was my wife's small hands getting down there and using ratchet that allowed the bit to sit all the way through. Similar to this:

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  3. #3
    Saab Fan
    Join Date
    01 Aug 2013
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    11
    Saab(s)
    2003 9-5 Arc Wagon 3.0T
    Thumbs Up:   1
    Great write-up!

    New owner of a 2003 9-5 3.0t Wagon with 83k miles that is in fantastic shape - The previous owner did every single service/repair the dealership recommended. The CPS was already replaced once by a dealership ~30 k miles ago. It seems to have a minor hot start issue (have to cycle the key on/off 3 times before it starts - first two times it just cranks). I'd like to see if the CPS is going bad again. Is this the same procedure I'd use on the 3.0t? Also, beyond the Torx 30, what other tools do I need? Thanks in advance.

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    Last edited by SCSaab9-5; 01 August 2013 at 23:17.

  4. #4
    Jeffrey
    Master SaabTech/Moderator Burnsside42's Avatar
    Join Date
    25 Oct 2010
    Location
    South Eastern PA
    Posts
    1,307
    Saab(s)
    - 86' 9KT - 95' 9K Custom CS - 06' 9-3 Sedan - 06' 9-3 Combi - 08' 9-3 TurboX -
    Thumbs Up:   2
    Access that torque from the bottom easily going up at it. Use a standard snap-on (or craftsman) T30 socket and either a stubby 3/8 ratchet or a fine tooth flex head long ratchet. Total job should not take more then 45 minutes in a driveway with ramps.

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  5. #5
    Saab Fan
    Join Date
    01 Aug 2013
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    11
    Saab(s)
    2003 9-5 Arc Wagon 3.0T
    Thumbs Up:   1
    Quote Originally Posted by Burnsside42 View Post
    Access that torque from the bottom easily going up at it. Use a standard snow on T30 socket and either a stubby 3/8 ratchet or a fine tooth flex head long ratchet. Total job should not take more then 45 minutes in a driveway with ramps.
    Thanks Burnsside42. Very helpful. This seems like such a common issue, it might not be a bad idea to have an extra CPS and appropriate tools in the spare tire compartment.

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  6. #6
    Saab Fan
    Join Date
    02 Oct 2016
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    9
    Saab(s)
    2008 Saab 9-5
    Thumbs Up:   0
    My '08 9-5 died after idling for maybe 5 minutes and would not restart. 40 minutes later it started just fine like nothing had happened. No codes.

    So I just replaced the CPS and found it to be a moderate PITA. Thought I'd leave a few suggestions to help the next person.

    I worked from the top and removed the upstream O2 sensor to improve access. I did not disconnect the O2 sensor harness but marked the hex of the O2 sensor and counted the turns as I unscrewed it so I'd know how many twists to put in the harness lead when I reinstalled it. Four turns.

    From the top I used a Snap-On 3/8" drive T30 bit attached to a Snap-On 3/8" drive universal joint and then a long 3/8" extension. I used a long pry bar to bend the heat shield slightly and I was then able to get the Torx bit into the screw with no difficulty and it came right out.

    When installing the new sensor, the trick to get the o-ring properly seated is to lube it with engine oil and position it half way down the shaft of the new sensor so it is pushed into position as you push the sensor into the hole. Do not leave the o-ring up against the shoulder on the sensor and attempt to use the mounting screw to force the o-ring into place. That will not work.

    When installing the new sensor I replaced the torx screw with a long bolt and spacer that left the 10 mm hex bolt head just above the heat shield. If you want to try something like this the torx screw thread is M6-1.0. I used a 40 mm bolt. The M6-1.0 threaded mounting hole in the block is a blind hole - it does not go all the way through - so you can't create any new problems by using a longer bolt.

    I struggled with the blue connector with the red locking tab. I assumed a two step process was required, first slide the red tab and then second disconnect the connector. Bad assumption. The connector is a dumb design with 45 degree ramps inside the red tab engaging the lugs on the male half of the connector. To get this connector apart you need to lever the red tab out a little then pull up on the connector a little and repeat until the two halves of the connector are separated.

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    Last edited by RDISaab; 18 December 2016 at 02:06.

 

 

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