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10 October 2010 #1
- Join Date
- 30 Jul 2010
- Rochester, New York, USA
- 1973 96
Thumbs Up:   0
Saab 900 Serpentine Belt Replacement - 2.0
Tools: Screwdriver, 10mm socket wrench, star-head screwdriver, lug wrench, car jack, jack stands, socket wrench extension (best if you have a 6" one, but I did it with two 3" ones), old 1/4" drill bit
Supplies: New belt (93185049), I like to use a little never seize on the lug bolts
Difficulty: 2 out of 5, meaning if you can jack up a car properly and remove a wheel, your 1/4 of the way there.
Estimated Time: 1 hour if you know your way around a car, maybe 2 if you don't.
Warning: This is just meant as a guideline. I may have left something out! Please, do not depend solely on this. If you do, and something goes wrong, it is not my fault! Please, always use jack stands when working with your car in the air. Also, this was done on a 1996 900 SE turbo (2.0, 4 cylinder).
1)Open up the hood and remove the airbox and set it aside. To do this, loosen the band clamp on the front of the airbox outlet and pull off the hose, then loosen and remove the three bolts (10mm) securing the box. I found it easiest to remove the top half of the box after getting the hose off. (Not my car in this picture... I wish)
2)If you want some extra room, remove the plastic shield/fascia from the engine (red thing above with "turbo" written on it). To do this, lift up on the part closest to the windshield, and then pull it off while lifting up and towards the back of the car.
3)Using the socket extension, relieve the tension from the belt. To do this, put the socket extension in the square hole on top of the belt tensioner. Pull the socket extension towards the front of the car, until positioning/locking holes line up. Then, slip the drill bit in the positioning holes, and slowly let go of the socket wrench. The drill bit should hold the tensioner in this loose state. DO NOT RELEASE THE TENSIONER AND ALLOW IT IT SNAP BACK TO ITS ORIGINAL POSITION, YOU MAY BREAK IT! (Tensioner, pictured below).
Airbox out, and tensioner loose:
4)Remove the old belt. Careful not to catch it on any thing important as you wiggle it out. If it's stuck on the lower right pulley, just leave it on for now.
5)Jack up the right hand side of the car, and put it on jack stands. Remove the wheel.
6)Remove the front half of the plastic wheel well lining. Approximately 4 of 5 screws. Mine were an assortment of star-heads and 10mm bolt head screws. You should have something like the picture below. The arrow is pointing to the pulley that the belt is most likely stuck on. Get it off.
7)Now your ready to put the new belt on! Feed it in, and around the pulleys. Be sure to line up the grooves correctly, and to follow the following belt pattern. (Ignore what it says the "Tensioner Pulley" is... it's incorrect. The correct one is the top left pulley in the diagram.)
8)You took the wheel off so you can get it around that one pulley. Some say you can do it without taking the wheel off, but I couldn't.
9)Once you've got the belt on correctly, put the wheel back on, and get the car back on the ground.
10)Pull on the socket extension again to relieve the pressure on the drill bit. Take out the drill bit, and SLOWLY release the tensioner. Double and triple check you've got the belt seated in correctly, and going around the pulleys in the correct direction/pattern.
11)Start up the car, and check out your handy work. I had my brother start up my car, so I could watch and make sure everything went smoothly, but thats just me. Don't keep it running too long without the airbox/filter in there.
12)If everything is good, put it all back together!
Notes: This is not for the "short belt." This is for the regular "long belt." My belt was run so that it did not follow the correct path (it was similar to the "short belt" version. Although it was run so that everything spun the in the correct direction, it caused a lot of vibration around 2000rpm. My mechanic did it this way, and I fixed it, and it eliminated the vibrations I was getting. The vibrations were strong enough to loosen the screws on the DIC, so I do not suggest skipping the middle pulley and putting on the short belt. Saab themselves, after going to the short belt, returned to the long belt.