Fuel filter change / replacement - gasoline/petrol engine - Saab 9-5

[nordwulf]

The fuel filter is located in front of the left rear wheel on the bottom of the outside chassis. The instructions below are for filters with banjo couplings. In the middle of model year 2005, they changed to a different kind of filter in North America. This filter has quick-connect fuel lines and requires a special, inexpensive tool. I am not sure why they call it quick-connect because it took me quite a while to figure out how to use the tool and go out and buy one in the first place. See the next posts for the WIS instructions and more information about this different type of filter and fuel line connections.

Parts needed:

Fuel filter and 4 sealing washers
Tie wrap, 14" / 36 cm or longer

Tools needed:

Wrenches/spanners. I think I remember it was 17 and 19 mm for the banjo bolts.
Tool to cut the tie wrap
Socket with ratchet for the filter clamp
Container to catch the fuel

Time estimate: 30 - 60 minutes

Difficulty: 1 - very easy. Keep in mind you're working with fuel so take safety precautions. Protective eyewear is recommended because fuel can splash when the fuel lines are removed.

Important
Half way through the 2005 model year, Saab started to use a different type of fuel filter. Check your car to make sure what type of filter you need or use the VIN to determine.

Filter for model years 1998 to 2005
For fuel filter up to chassis number 53507522 - EU/RoW
For fuel filter up to chassis number 53510415 - US/CA



Filter for model years 2005 to 2009
For fuel filter from chassis number 53507523 - EU/RoW
For fuel filter from chassis number 53510416 - US/CA

Important Note:

'06+ cars don't have a serviceable fuel filter. They switched to that 9-3 Sport Sedan style pump and even went so far as to remove the cut-out in the floor for easy of access so the tank needs to be dropped in order to replace level senders/pumps.

Fuel line disconnect tool



Instructions for model year 1998 - 2005 1/2:
(scroll down to read instructions for the quick-connect fuel filter)

Use car ramps for the rear wheels or jack up the right rear of the car. Make sure to always use jack stands or other support when working on a car that has been lifted with a jack.



Remove the fuse panel cover on the dash.



The fuel pressure needs to be reduced from the system because otherwise you will have an unpleasant surprise of fuel spraying everywhere when you try to undo the fuel lines from the filter.

With the engine running, remove fuse #15 - 20A - yellow. This will turn off the fuel pump and the engine should shut off in a few seconds or less. Turn off the ignition off and put the fuse back in.





The fuel filter splash guard is clipped on the fuel filter itself and is held in place with a tie wrap.



Cut the tie wrap and remove the guard.



Loosen the front fuel line (upper right arrow). Fuel will start to come out so have a container to catch the fuel. It is probably more than you expect so using a rag won't be sufficient.





Remove the front and rear fuel lines when most of the fule has come out. Take out the bolt for the filter clamp and remove the filter.

View from the back with rear fuel line.



Use the new sealing washers for the fuel lines and put back together in reverse order. Note the arrow on the filter for the fuel flow direction. This should point towards the front of the car. The banjo bolts for the fuel lines are different sizes so you can't really put it together the wrong way.



Start the engine and check for leaks.

Use a new tie wrap (or two) to secure the splash guard.

[nordwulf]

For fuel filter up to chassis number 53507522 - EU/RoW
For fuel filter up to chassis number 53510415 - US/CA

To remove

1. Reduce the fuel pressure by removing fuel pump fuse no. 15 while the engine is idling. Turn off the ignition once the engine has stopped and replace the fuse.

2. Remove the fuel filter splash guard.

3. Drain the fuel from the filter before removing it.

4. Undo the banjo couplings on either side of the filter.



5. Undo the filter clamp.

6. Remove the filter.

To fit

Important
Check the sealing washers before fitting. If necessary replace with new sealing washers.

1. Fit the filter with clamps. Make note of the direction of flow.

2. Fit the banjo couplings on either side of the filter.

Tightening torque: 21 Nm (16 lbf ft)

3. Fit the fuel filter splash guard.

4. Check for leaks around the fuel line's banjo couplings on the fuel filter when the engine is running.

For fuel filter from chassis number 53507523 - EU/RoW
For fuel filter from chassis number 53510416 - US/CA

To remove

1. Reduce the fuel pressure by removing fuel pump fuse no. 15 while the engine is idling. Turn off the ignition once the engine has stopped and replace the fuse.

2. Drain the fuel from the filter before removing it.

3. Remove the fuel lines from the fuel filter and plug the lines. Only remove the fuel lines once no more fuel drains out.

Remove the quick couplines with 83 95 261 Tool, fuel line

.

4. Undo the filter clamp.

5. Remove the filter.

To fit

1. Fit a new fuel filter. Fit and tighten the filter clamp. Make note of the direction of flow.

2. Remove the plugs. Connect the fuel lines to the fuel filter with quick couplings.

3. Check for leaks around the fuel line's quick couplings on the fuel filter when the engine is running.

[IndpMind]

Most tutorials show the banjo bolt end styles. Easy of course......2 open end wrenches and your done. I found out that some Ford models have the same type of fittings our cars have using the same tool. Forget about the scissor type. Get a Lisle brand 39420 3/8" plastic angle tool.

This is what you do:

1.The end of the tool is split down the middle. Simply push the end of it over the fuel filter nipple ( or spread it) and it will clamp on automatically.

2.Push the tool into the line fitting snug. Take your left hand and push the fuel line fitting toward the fuel filter as your using the tool to push "toward" the fuel line. Ease up on pushing the fuel line toward the filter, but keep putting pressure toward the line. There is no need to twist the tool. The inside of the fuel line fitting has two metal tabs inside of it-this is what you are pushing to free the line.

3. The back nipple ( toward back of car) and fitting is a closer gap than the front. Get the tool started onto the nipple and line it up w/the fitting. You may be able to wedge it into the fitting a little but it won't go in like the front. I took a small wide end flathead screwdriver and hammer and gently tapped the tool end until it snapped into the fitting. Being plastic you have the flexibility, but not w/the typical aluminum type shown on many sites to remove the filter. Push and push and your lines are free.

I removed the lines w/the filter still bolted to the body of the car. This IMO allows for greater leverage to remove the lines because your not holding the filter along w/everything else. This tool was 4.00. There are some that go for 25.00, but you don't need them.

Hope this helps anybody having frustrations like I did on how to remove our quick connect setup. Oh, and don't smoke a cigarette while doing this or use any other type of flammable substance. Props to Frank for the original tutorial, but I like most, really couldn't figure out the proper method on how to use the tool w/our quick connect type ends.

Install of new filter is pretty straightforward. Install filter into bracket and screw into underbody. Keep it loose so you can adjust the filter to fit onto the fittings properly. The fittings will snap onto the nipple ends of the filter.

No need to use the plastic fittings that come w/a new filter. I have a Mann filter installed. Make sure your "flow arrow" on the filter is pointing toward front of car. Tighten your bracket and the rest is cake. I bought my Lisle tool at O'Reilley, as Autozone or Advance don't carry this brand.

Refer to Frank's write up to get things started and other tools/safety for this job.

[nordwulf]

IndpMind's instructions for the quick connect fittings are spot on. I changed mine last weekend and this time it was much easier with the above instructions.

Mine didn't have a plastic cover like the earlier model with the other filter. Is this normal and did Saab eliminate the splash guard?







Push the fuel line towards the filter and the tool towards the line.

[rpiereck]

My NG900 didn't have a splash guard on the filter.

[IndpMind]

IndpMind's instructions for the quick connect fittings are spot on. I changed mine last weekend and this time it was much easier with the above instructions.

Thanks for the prop Frank

[psymon]

I've changed the fuel filters on my previous ng900s. Pretty straight forward. Good to see the 9-5 is very similar. At what mileage interval is it recommended to change this.

[bandasaab]

I did this on my 2000 Aero today. Took only about 15 minutes thanks to the clear and detailed instructions. The car boosts as if it had a stage 1 remap :-)

[Pascal26]

Good afternoon.
I tried to do on my Saab 9-5 2.3 Turbo Biofuel from 2009, but no such fuel filter in front of rigth rear wheels.
Only a black box, with no pipe apparently and no clear indication whati it is about, how to open or remove. Please see attached image.
Any help would be welcome. Many thanks.

[nordwulf]

The 2006 - 2009 9-5 do not have these serviceable fuel filters anymore.

'06+ cars don't have a serviceable fuel filter. They switched to that 9-3 Sport Sedan style pump and even went so far as to remove the cut-out in the floor for easy of access so the tank needs to be dropped in order to replace level senders/pumps.