Results 61 to 70 of 108
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14 October 2013 #61
Katherine Saab Fan
- Join Date
- 16 Dec 2012
- Location
- New York
- Posts
- 31
- Saab(s)
- 2000 Saab 9-5
I did my first sump drop yesterday, but accidentally split my exhaust. The process took a while for me to do, but it was worth it because I have had a lot of issues with an oil sludge clog and I finally witnessed why. The screen was almost completely blocked. Only a few screen holes available. In the past I have had five mechanics tell me that the oil sludge clog was not the problem, but I kept straight in my mind all the posts I have read on Saab World from Frank Wufers and I just had to try it. Thank You for all of Your information.
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22 October 2013 #62
- Join Date
- 08 May 2012
- Location
- Montgomery , Al
- Posts
- 22
- Saab(s)
- 2004 9 -5 Aero
Is this right about the exhaust pipe? I have seen some leaking around where the bolts connecting my oil pan are.
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22 October 2013 #63
Katherine Saab Fan
- Join Date
- 16 Dec 2012
- Location
- New York
- Posts
- 31
- Saab(s)
- 2000 Saab 9-5
I wasn't exactly gentle... If You're gentle, You shouldn't have a problem. But like I mentioned in a different post, my exhause has some black sut in it so maybe this did some damage to it internally first. Who knows.
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27 November 2013 #64
- Join Date
- 27 Nov 2013
- Location
- St. Paul, MN
- Posts
- 1
- Saab(s)
- 2003 9-5 Linear
Hi all, I am in the middle of doing this and I have a question. When I unbolted the exhaust from the turbo, I was left with 3 studs in the turbo, and this means that I could not drop the exhaust more than about 1/2" or so. Is that enough clearance to remove the sump? I have all the bolts on the sump out except the 1 up under the exhaust (I can access it but it's slow). If that's not enough clearance I can remove that bottom stud but I'm quite afraid of breaking it off in the turbo. Any ideas/experiences/information? Thanks a bunch!
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29 November 2013 #65
Katherine Saab Fan
- Join Date
- 16 Dec 2012
- Location
- New York
- Posts
- 31
- Saab(s)
- 2000 Saab 9-5
When I did mine there was a metal piece with a bolt that held the top of the exhaust to the car. On my 2000, it was between the top of the exhaust where it connects to the turbo, and the part of the exhaust near the sump. If You're having a rough time removing the last bolt to the sump, then how are You going to drop the sump?
--Did You by any chance, not remove the o2 sensors? Maybe that is what is keeping it from dropping further? I know I had two to remove and then I made sure there was enough of each wire pulled out toward the exhaust in order to be able to lower the exhaust.
--You do NOT want to break off the bottom stud from the turbo. You need to find what is keeping You from lowering the exhaust and/or keeping You from shifting the top of the exhaust slightly to Your right, in order to free it from the three studs. You may just have the same metal harness as I did. Look under the car, follow Your exhaust along all sides of it and see if there are any metal brackets holding it up as a second support from the exhaust.Last edited by ScientificHeart; 29 November 2013 at 15:46.
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01 December 2013 #66
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19 January 2014 #67
- Join Date
- 24 Sep 2013
- Location
- NoVA
- Posts
- 3
- Saab(s)
- 2000 9-5 Aero
I hate to bump this, but this was similar to the issue I was having. The 2 top studs had the nut and stud come off in once piece, however the bottom stud had the nut come off but I wasn't able to get the stud out. Because of this, I could slide the exhaust to the side, however it wouldn't clear the stud and therefore couldn't be dropped. I tried the 2 nut method on that stuck stud, PB blasted the snot out of it (note to self, dont be under the car with your face under the object you're blasting...d'oh) and nothing worked.
Since I'm a glutton for punishment, I feel like tackling this again, any suggestions?
Edit: For clarity, the bottom most stud is stuck and can't be removed. This causes the flange of the exhaust to catch the stud and wont allow it to drop.
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19 January 2014 #68
Katherine Saab Fan
- Join Date
- 16 Dec 2012
- Location
- New York
- Posts
- 31
- Saab(s)
- 2000 Saab 9-5
What exactly is the issue You are having? You took the nuts off the bolts on the turbo/exhaust? And then could not lower the exhaust? Did You che c.f. k to see if there was that metal support bracket still bolted? When I unfolded the exhaust from the metal support bracket, and took the upper mid section of the exhaust off of the black rubber exhaust hangers, the exhaust was able to be lowered that much more. But be careful because that is how I cracked the exhaust. You should have something below it laying on the ground to hold it up so it doean't fall too much.
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19 January 2014 #69
- Join Date
- 24 Sep 2013
- Location
- NoVA
- Posts
- 3
- Saab(s)
- 2000 9-5 Aero
The issue is that the nut is off the lowest stud, however I can't remove the stud. The exhaust support bracket is unbolted and the O2 sensors are both undone and the cables have slack. I can slide the collar back freeing up the exhaust, and can move the exhaust pipe to the side a few inches, however when I try to lower it, the flange of the exhaust pipe catches that lower stud and prevents me from dropping the exhaust any farther.
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19 January 2014 #70
Marty Jackson Saab Addict
- Join Date
- 17 May 2013
- Location
- London Ont. Canada
- Posts
- 641
- Saab(s)
- Sadly a Volvo XC90
Your going to have to remove a couple of the motor mounts and jack the motor up. Remove the one attached to the transmission right there by the exhaust, the one on the passengers side ot the big U shape thing. (Just the b19mm nut should do.) If doing just those two easy ones deosn't work... the one under the battery and the one behind the motor/trans. Take the exhaust pipe out of the first set of hangers by the first muffler and you will have a bit more wiggle to the pipe.
NOTE: Use a short 2x4 to hole the motor up under the air conditioning pump. You don't want the engine falling on a finger!
I say only the first two motor mounts because I think it will work if the engine is jacked as high you can get it. (2.5") You may need to do 3 0r 4.
Keep the piece of wood under the air conditioning pump all the time you have the engine jacked!
The alternative is removing the studs. PB blaster + Vicegrips... or heat the turbo flange around the stud to red hot and use Vicegrips. (The WIS says to remove the front pipe from the first muffler forward. I haven't read of anyone doing that though.)
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