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10 November 2010 #1
How to replace the coolant expansion tank, Saab 9-3, 2.8 V6 engine
I have replaced the expansion tank in my dark garage after work and the coolant in cold conditions.
time labor less than one hour.
tools used:
1.- vacuum the expansion tank (1,4 liters) protect the work area with some clothes to avoid drops of coolant to avoid further odors.
2.- slipped the spring clip off, leaving it on the hose
3.- take out the two hoses.
4..- lift up the tank (due the small space and after several try I helped with the big screwdriver between the bracket and the tank)
5.- disconnect sensor level connector
6.- disconnect the quick fastener spring hose connector with the small screwdriver
7.- then assembled all by inverted steps and fill up the tank with a new GM antifreeze coolant (no water mixed) just pure coolant (1,4 liters).
I used this coolant from dealer. it is cheap.
That is all.Last edited by nordwulf; 11 November 2010 at 02:36. Reason: small change to thread title
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10 November 2010 #2
I did as dealer instructions, according the last modification MI No,; 260-2722
after different tests drive, hoses very hot like inflate by so hot, I decided to go back to factory setup.
- not inverted hoses with protective anti-friction cover hoses taped.
about materials between old version and new version tank:
-old version tank:
pa66 30% gf "Glass reinforced polyamide" is a good material for high temperatures but "the designer needs to be aware of the anisotropic properties that can result in mouldings due to the flow and alignment of the reinforcing phase that occurs during moulding".
what I think:
the problem look like to be a micro cracks material on the top of welding seam.
-the new version tank: is the best choice.
Polyphenylene sulphide (PPS)...
you can read more about material in the link posted above.
in resume: that is a material problem in the moulding process in one specific seam area,
then, see picture
why to invert the hoses?.
-the stabilization of the temperatures in all the tank in the center pipe and right pipe is a question of m-seconds.
-the coolant boiling point is about 130ºC/266ºF more or less and PA6/PPS can be working over 200ºC/392ºF at functional temperatures.
there is no reason of melted material in the tank. it has no sense.
and the main reason is:
- to keep the original functionality of the tank as it was designed for the coolant turbo recirculation in the right pipe and the drop coolant from the engine in the center pipe to keep the flow specifications in the pipes functionality in the tank design.
after one year, 10000kms the coolant tank is working for good functionality and my fans radiator no turn on after I shut off the engine.
watch video to hear the engine coolant recirculation after engine turn off :
Last edited by jlrSAAB; 10 November 2010 at 22:51.
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20 November 2010 #3
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13 September 2013 #4
Replace coolant expansion tank, hoses don't fit
I had the same problem. So I got the new tank put it in and when trying to put the hoses back on, they didn't fit the new tank. I went to a few part stores and ended up coming home with new 400PSI cooler hoses. They fit the car just fine but I can't get it on the larger nipples on the new tank. (nosels?) I'm trying to stretch out one end and try again, but maybe you guys have a better idea?
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27 September 2013 #5
After about a month of looking we found the hoses! It took two more shipments after that to get one that wasn't already cracked and leaking. But today I have a new hose and it's fitted! I did about a mile of stop and go driving and then let it run and there's no dripping! I'm thrilled.
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