Saab 9-3 brake pads replacement

[SaabWorld]

Instructions for the 2006 Saab 9-3. Other model years may be the same but could be different.

To remove

1. Raise the car.

2. Remove the wheel.

3. Remove the retaining spring from the brake caliper.



4. Press in the piston by prising with a screwdriver against the brake pad.



5. Remove the protective covers and guide pins. Lift off the hydraulic body.

Note
Be careful when handling the brake hose.

6. Remove the inner brake pad from the caliper and the outer brake pad from the bracket. Clean the inside of the brake caliper and check the dust covers.

To fit

1. Lubricate the pad sliding surfaces with Special paste.



2. Place the outer brake pad into the carrier.

Fit the inner brake pad into the hydraulic body.

Note
The inner brake pad must be fitted so that the arrow points in the direction of rotation of the brake disc for forward travel.



3. Place the hydraulic body into the carrier.

Fit the guide pins.

Tightening torque 28 Nm (21 lbf ft)



4. Fit the protective covers.

5. Fit the retaining spring to the brake caliper. Lay the outer contact surfaces against the bracket and push the centre of the clip.



6. Fit the wheel.

7. Lower the car.

8. Depress the brake pedal repeatedly in order to press out the brake pistons.

9. Check the brake fluid level and top up as necessary.

10. Check the operation of the foot brake.

[SaabWorld]

Instructions for the 2006 Saab 9-3. Other model years may be the same but could be different.

To remove

1. Raise the car.

2. Remove the wheel.

3. Remove the retaining spring from the brake caliper by prising with a screwdriver while pressing the flat part of the spring.





4. Press in the piston by prising with a screwdriver against the brake pad.



5. Remove the protective covers and guide pins. Lift off the hydraulic body.

Note
Be careful when handling the brake hose.

6. Remove the brake pads from the hydraulic body.

Clean the inside of the hydraulic body and check the dust covers.

To fit

1. Lubricate the pad sliding and contact surfaces with Special paste.



2. Fit the brake pads into the hydraulic body.

Note
The inner brake pad must be fitted so that the arrow points in the direction of rotation of the brake disc for forward travel.



3. Place the hydraulic body into the carrier. Fit the guide pins.

Tightening torque 28 Nm (21 lbf ft)



4. Fit the protective covers.

5. Fit the retaining spring to the brake caliper. Position the upper edge and centre of the spring. Then press home the lower end of the spring. Make sure the lug engages.



6. Fit the wheel.

7. Lower the car.

8. Depress the brake pedal repeatedly in order to press out the brake pistons.

9. Check the brake fluid level and top up as necessary.

10. Check the operation of the foot brake.

[SaabWorld]

Instructions for the 2006 Saab 9-3. Other model years may be the same but could be different.

To remove

1. Raise the car.

2. Remove the wheel.

3. Remove the retaining spring from the brake caliper.



4. Remove the protective covers and guide pins. Lift off the hydraulic body.

5. Remove the inner brake pad from the caliper and the outer brake pad from the
bracket. Clean the inside of the brake caliper and check the dust covers.

6. Screw in the brake piston with 89 96 969 Resetting tool and 89 96 977 Adapter.

Important
Check that the rubber gaiter does not turn when the brake piston is screwed in. Otherwise cracks may appear in the gaiter.



To fit

1. Lubricate the pad sliding and contact surfaces with Special paste.



2. Fit the brake pads.



3. Fit the hydraulic body.

Tightening torque 28 Nm (21 lbf ft)

Fit the protective covers.



4. Fit the retaining spring to the brake caliper.

5. Fit the wheel.

6. Lower the car.

7. Press the brake pedal a few times to press out the brake pistons and the handbrake adjustment.

8. Check the brake fluid level and top up as necessary.

9. Check the operation of the foot brake and handbrake.

[Dave T]

If you change the brake rotors, make sure that you buy the correct size. Look or measure your current rotors first. Around 2006, Saab started to put brake codes on the door jamb. Don't assume if you have a Linear, that you will have 285 mm front rotors and solid 278 mm rears. I have a 2005 Linear (2.0t) with 302 mm front and vented 292 mm rears.

[jlrSAAB]

for level 1,2 and 4; level 3 different calipers, it depends of the discs sizes 15/16ins, engine type and country setup,

this post is only for info, you must ask to your dealer for right setup of your car, some performance or changes by engineering department may be done during the time.

see table for FRONT CALIPER




checking the id_plate in pilar B central frame door, in the drivers side, I can found in my car these codes:
[FONT=Arial Narrow]for [/FONT][FONT=Arial Narrow]93 Saab SS AERO, engine 284L, MT6, EUROPEAN VERSION[/FONT]

choose the codes for the right pats:
Front Brake caliper..... code=CC



FRONT BRAKE DISC... CODE=AC


REAR BRAKE CALIPER.....CODE=DB


REAR FRONT DISC......CODE=BB


see the slides in the album Brakes

[jlrSAAB]

[ob2s]

And if you are doing a 2007 9-3 and are replacing the rotors, expect to remove the caliper holders using an E20 torx socket (not found in your corner shop) in order to free the rotors. Expect to not be able to budge at least one of the 4 bolts (2 each side) laying on the ground no matter how long your breaker bar is. Expect that the heads of the rotor stay screws to seem as if they are made of lead and strip thusly (even if you use screw-ease beforehand - I must have purchased the nightclub version), then expect the rest of the screw to be of hardened steel, the part you have to drill out. Expect that a Grabit stripped screw remover to strip just as easily. While these screws look like they have normal heads that you can drill out readily, guess again. Here is a picture
Attachment 11626
You have drill out the entire non threaded part under the head which can ruin 3-4 drill (3/8") bits. Then you'll need a big ball peen hammer to hammer the daylights out of the rotor to get if off. This is also not easy laying on the ground. Wear ear protection. Order replacement screws in advance, which are not required to hold the rotor on as the lug nuts do that, but be prepared for a more challenging tire change as the rotor can turn when you are trying to thread a lug nut in. Hopefully your rotor will be stuck to the hub when this happens. The stripped screw head removal procedure can take longer than the entire rotor/pad R&R, especially if you have to ride your bicycle to buy a new drill bit.

[Blackbird]

Replace your brake fluid prior to compressing your calipers. When you compress the caliper you're flushing the dirtiest brake fluid that settles back into your system.
You can also avoid flushing this fluid back through the system by pinching the line and cracking the bleeder on the hydraulic body when you press the piston back into its housing.

[Blackbird]

You can use a 16mm 6-point socket in place of a e-socket, and the rear hydraulic body is fastened with a 7mm hex bolt (the author of the above video used a torx, this will strip your fasteners). You'll also want to put anti-seize on the sliding surfaces between the pads and the caliper, as well as a silicon lube on the slide pins and piston gaiter. Petro-based grease will harden and in the North pads and calipers have the potential of fusing together. I'll post for pictures in time.

Signs of sticky brake components. Could be slide pins, pads, or a sticking caliper piston

Rusted/Sticky Pad sliding surface


Sticking slide pins because of hardened petro-based grease. Silicon-based alternative.

Anti-seize in place

[zack20cb]

And if you are doing a 2007 9-3 and are replacing the rotors, expect to remove the caliper holders using an E20 torx socket (not found in your corner shop) in order to free the rotors. Expect to not be able to budge at least one of the 4 bolts (2 each side) laying on the ground no matter how long your breaker bar is. Expect that the heads of the rotor stay screws to seem as if they are made of lead and strip thusly (even if you use screw-ease beforehand - I must have purchased the nightclub version), then expect the rest of the screw to be of hardened steel, the part you have to drill out. Expect that a Grabit stripped screw remover to strip just as easily. While these screws look like they have normal heads that you can drill out readily, guess again. Here is a picture
Attachment 11626
You have drill out the entire non threaded part under the head which can ruin 3-4 drill (3/8") bits. Then you'll need a big ball peen hammer to hammer the daylights out of the rotor to get if off. This is also not easy laying on the ground. Wear ear protection. Order replacement screws in advance, which are not required to hold the rotor on as the lug nuts do that, but be prepared for a more challenging tire change as the rotor can turn when you are trying to thread a lug nut in. Hopefully your rotor will be stuck to the hub when this happens. The stripped screw head removal procedure can take longer than the entire rotor/pad R&R, especially if you have to ride your bicycle to buy a new drill bit.

I did rear pads and rotors yesterday on my 2008 9-3 2.0T. I also have the E20 bolts holding the caliper bracket from the back. I ran to NAPA, which fortunately had an E20 socket, and was able to remove the bracket and complete the job. These bolts are held in with a combination of blue locktite and corrosion, so they take a lot of force to break loose and don’t spin off easily once they’re moving.

If you’re setting up for this job and you have the option of using an E20 wrench instead of a socket, DO IT.

I was never able to get full engagement on the upper bolt head, due to a threaded stud on the far side obstructing my socket (not sure what that stud is. I’ll try to take a picture when I do the other side). I had limited time and decided to chance it with a breaker bar and penetrating oil, and fortunately it did come free.

ob2s, was the upper one the one that stripped for you? Did you have a clearance issue too?

I’m at a loss for why they used an E-torx there. A flanged hex head would have worked fine and I could have turned it with any old wrench. I’ve ordered the VIM e-torx box wrenches (“WTC 624”), and I’m going to wait till they come to do the other side.